realized- the mileage at the time of use was a typo , was more like 155,000 miles (aprox)
Restore?
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I've used Restore twice and I had good results. Worth a try after all the other options have been tried.
Its a good temporary fix and it is cheap. Its for a beater car that your trying to keep running. I certainly wouldnt put it in a car I cared about enough to get a UOA on. Compared to the costs of AutoRx and a rebuild it looks like a winner. Certainly noone believes you are going to get a new motor out of a little silver can for 8.99. But you get 8.99 worth I believe and thats more than alot of the oil additives give you.
Originally Posted By: moemoney
I worked at a place where Restore was sold. One day someone dropped a can and it broke open. We came in the next day and that stuff was like clear shellac all over the floor. We couldn't get it off the floor...
Um, sure buddy. First, RESTORE isn't clear, and it certainly doesn't harden outside the can. But thanks for the useful insight.
I worked at a place where Restore was sold. One day someone dropped a can and it broke open. We came in the next day and that stuff was like clear shellac all over the floor. We couldn't get it off the floor...
A buddy of mine had given me a can of it to try many years ago. I had an old work van that was the perfect canditate for Restore. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engine idle, and it stayed that way for a long time. I never used it again but can honestly say it did something.
Frank D
Frank D
Hi.
In their info, Restore say that they use the CSL-technology. CSL is short for Copper, Silver and Lead.
I have used Restore, but I cannot say I noticed any difference.
However, I stumbled across some info about siver in the oil: http://www.silveroil.info/index.html
In their info, Restore say that they use the CSL-technology. CSL is short for Copper, Silver and Lead.
I have used Restore, but I cannot say I noticed any difference.
However, I stumbled across some info about siver in the oil: http://www.silveroil.info/index.html
Used the product once (the big can) in an old beaten Northstar engine. It was definitely thick as malt extract and was quite blue (probably from the copper). Compression did even out across the cylinders and it ran much better...I sold the car 2 weeks after the treatment though so I can't say it was sustainable or caused damaging effects later on down the road. And FYI- I DID DISCLOSE THIS TO THE NEW OWNER before anyone here decides to give me ethics coaching.
nice-I was just about to hit the ethics button.
The only engine I've used this in, is a 1982 8HP B & S lawn tractor engine. Got the tractor about 12 years ago when the friend with ALZ disease passed. It had been sitting for a couple of years in a shed-mice had digested the ignition system, so after fixing it I used 30W Castrol with once/year oci. The thing always burned oil, but each year it would get worse. Tried 40 weight and 20-50, no difference in consumption. Nonetheless, it continued to eat 4 ounces of oil per hour of use-that's enough to foul the plug and stall the motor when the deposits finally bridged the spark plug gap and shorted the system. Thinking maybe the rings were coked, this past winter I filled the crankcase halfway with one of those 5 min engine flushes and ran for 5 mins. Let it sit all winter no difference in oil usage.Tried one half can of Restore 4cyl formula. After about 4 hours of use, the smoke has decreased significantly. Whether this will last or not is anyone's guess. I would never use this in a car I cared about though.
The only engine I've used this in, is a 1982 8HP B & S lawn tractor engine. Got the tractor about 12 years ago when the friend with ALZ disease passed. It had been sitting for a couple of years in a shed-mice had digested the ignition system, so after fixing it I used 30W Castrol with once/year oci. The thing always burned oil, but each year it would get worse. Tried 40 weight and 20-50, no difference in consumption. Nonetheless, it continued to eat 4 ounces of oil per hour of use-that's enough to foul the plug and stall the motor when the deposits finally bridged the spark plug gap and shorted the system. Thinking maybe the rings were coked, this past winter I filled the crankcase halfway with one of those 5 min engine flushes and ran for 5 mins. Let it sit all winter no difference in oil usage.Tried one half can of Restore 4cyl formula. After about 4 hours of use, the smoke has decreased significantly. Whether this will last or not is anyone's guess. I would never use this in a car I cared about though.
I just replaced all of the valve seals in my 78k mile 1990 s10 Iron Duke 2.5 and am still having the same symptoms as before I changed them. No smoke during cruising only after long decelerations sitting at lights etc. Now what
Then I remembered the on one of the Sunday morning car shows back in the early 90's on now defunct TNN they did a before and after compression test on an 80's el camino with a small block to test that the claims of restore were accurate, and there was a notable improvement. So..
I went to Walmart last night and bought a 4 cylinder can of restore, shook it to death and dumped it in with the fresh oil. the truck really smoked like a chimney now, I drove back home about 7 miles away and shut it off until this morning. Still smoked this morning but not nearly as bad. I'm getting ready for the drive home now, I'll post any improvements over the next few days.
Then I remembered the on one of the Sunday morning car shows back in the early 90's on now defunct TNN they did a before and after compression test on an 80's el camino with a small block to test that the claims of restore were accurate, and there was a notable improvement. So..
I went to Walmart last night and bought a 4 cylinder can of restore, shook it to death and dumped it in with the fresh oil. the truck really smoked like a chimney now, I drove back home about 7 miles away and shut it off until this morning. Still smoked this morning but not nearly as bad. I'm getting ready for the drive home now, I'll post any improvements over the next few days.
Tectron! Hopefully you found a fix in a can. Those old iron duke motors were hard to kill. If you have some white smoke it could be the fuel system too. I just went through a rough diagnostic on a vehicle this weekend and it turned out to be a leaking injector. It smoked like the dickens...white smoke at idle. Coolant pressure test showed no leak. Basic fuel pressure test and reading the plugs told me something was up. Good luck keeping it rolling!
Well the smoke has reduced quite a bit over about 100 miles, especially after it gets warmed up well but its still smoking,
I am going to check my egr valve since I had it off when I changed the seals, I hear that an improperly functioning egr can cause these iron duke motors to smoke.
But overall it is running good, just smokes a litle
I am going to check my egr valve since I had it off when I changed the seals, I hear that an improperly functioning egr can cause these iron duke motors to smoke.
But overall it is running good, just smokes a litle
Originally Posted By: tectron
I am going to check my egr valve since I had it off when I changed the seals, I hear that an improperly functioning egr can cause these iron duke motors to smoke.
What? Who told you that?
I am going to check my egr valve since I had it off when I changed the seals, I hear that an improperly functioning egr can cause these iron duke motors to smoke.
What? Who told you that?
I saw it on the s10 forums, I put a block off plate on over the weekend and saw another smoke reduction but I don't know if it was restore or not.
Can a head gasket cause oil burning, since the black/blue smoke is gone and all that is left is white moist smoke.
Can a head gasket cause oil burning, since the black/blue smoke is gone and all that is left is white moist smoke.
The EGR puts a very small amount of burned fuel into the intake charge to reduce NOX emissions. It will not cause or prevent smoke.
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