Yeah Scoot, I bought it brand new. Traded it in on my current 2025 Toyota Rav4. Changed oil on the CRV about every 5000 miles. It was a nice little SUV. It had the fuel dilution problem like all the GDI Hondas. I like this Toyota better though, except it has that dreaded stop start system on it.
Response from Liqui Moly tech referencing Mos2 usage.
- Thread starter GI_GRIFF
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SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Is the Toyota designed like some other brands that allow operator to turn the start/stop off if one chooses to?
Yes Sammy, you just have to remember to push the button every time you start the car.
The MMA is v. misunderstood w/r to the aftermarket. The intent of the MMA w/r to the automotive industry was to prevent manufacturers from requiring use of their service and parts to maintain the warranty. That's it. So you can DIY or use Jiffy Lube. BUT...you have to use equivalent parts to what they call for. Using MoS2 doesn't fall under that I'm afraid and easily could be used to deny a claim. Now...whether that holds up when you go to arbitration is another story as it is highly unlikely that MoS2 could cause engine damage and that would be what is being argued by you and what they would have to have evidence to support.
I've used it in several of my vehicles without drama. There is a lot of BITOG the sky is falling here w/r to these products that is unfounded.
I've used it in several of my vehicles without drama. There is a lot of BITOG the sky is falling here w/r to these products that is unfounded.
Why are you asking me?
I am challenging the idea that underlies the reasoning about going to court over damage supposedly caused by additives. You may have been going in a different question, so not aiming it at you.
Thanks, TiGeo, I have used it and really liked it, as it actually did act as a "mechanic in a can" saving me at least hundreds of dollars. I have used it every oil change since, whether I need it or not. It helps, hopefully I won't ever have to go down the warranty denial route because of it.
I told this story two times, and here it is thrice repeated:
My '12 Honda Fit started running poor within 2 days after installing this powdered moly. I blame it. Right or not. 1/2 bottle in warm oil.
Later I ran an ounce or two from the same bottle in my Generac 5500 a with fresh VR1 10W30 synthetic - an application that has no oil filter, and that sump fill stayed in for 7 years(!) with no issue and smooth operation (low <50 hours useage)
I suspect 15 years ago with E10 and often reported "mahogany" colored used drained oil, there was some gumming and agglomeration happening that has been sorted out with the latest oil formulations. IDK. Pure speculation.
I would say go for it in non-filtered ODPE sump - and a little goes a long way.
I will NEVER AGAIN use Liqui Moly MoS2 treatment in an automotive application, or a motorbike. - Arco
My '12 Honda Fit started running poor within 2 days after installing this powdered moly. I blame it. Right or not. 1/2 bottle in warm oil.
Later I ran an ounce or two from the same bottle in my Generac 5500 a with fresh VR1 10W30 synthetic - an application that has no oil filter, and that sump fill stayed in for 7 years(!) with no issue and smooth operation (low <50 hours useage)
I suspect 15 years ago with E10 and often reported "mahogany" colored used drained oil, there was some gumming and agglomeration happening that has been sorted out with the latest oil formulations. IDK. Pure speculation.
I would say go for it in non-filtered ODPE sump - and a little goes a long way.
I will NEVER AGAIN use Liqui Moly MoS2 treatment in an automotive application, or a motorbike. - Arco
Arco, I am sorry to hear about your poor experience on your Honda. You have maybe read already, but I had good luck using it on my 2015 Honda CRV with the rattling VVT actuator. I used it on that car after that with no ill effects that I could see for several oil change intervals. I did follow the directions. There is the possibility I am making a mistake, I do realize that. On the other hand, I used a brand name engine oil in my 2015 Honda CRV and changed the oil every 3 to 4 thousand miles using the recommended 0w-20 engine oil. Around 60,000 miles the VVT actuator started rattling at cold start, every time. I took it to my local Honda dealer where I bought it brand new and they said they could replace the actuator for a fee. That was the way to fix the problem the right way, then plan on possibly doing it every 60,000 miles after that. I researched various "mechanic in a can" alternatives. After reading, I decided to try the Liqui Moly Mos2 product. It stopped the rattle on startup. I no longer own the vehicle; I traded it in on my current new vehicle. For all I know my old Honda could have blown-up by now duly caused by the previous owners (being me) using Mos2 in it. I will never know. I am hoping I don't have the same experience you did in my future, I do appreciate your concern. I think about this, it is sad that I used a name brand quality proper viscosity engine oil in that Honda the entire time I owned it. The VVT actuator acted up, which they were known for at the time. I pour a can of prehistoric ground up liquidized black rock in the crankcase with that genuine brand name top quality engine oil, and the noise stops. Believe it or not, I am not selling the moly stuff, I just know it helped me in the past. For God's sake, anybody reading this, if you try it, use at your own risk. Do your own research. It could backfire, like it could on me, and did on ARCOgraphite.
I’d say instead of using the cheapest oil at Wally and adding something to it just spring for a higher quality oil with high quality additives already in it.
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As far as dealers denying warranty. That’s pretty hard to do when they’ll sell you every BG flush and additive package known to man…..against OEM recommendations. It’ll never hold up in arbitration. No lawyers needed. That said I personally don’t use additives and don’t recommend them.
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Generally it's the automakers not the dealers who deny warranties.
This is true. Dealer gets the ball rolling and it gets escalated to the regional warranty rep. from the manufacturer. That’s why I tell people not to believe any threats from a service advisor. Arbitration is in place to give the consumer a fair chance. In the US the arbitration clause is in the warranty booklet.
This is true, however you have to ask yourself if you want to be in a position where you have to go to arbitration because you added something to your oil. There could be a long waiting time to get to arbitration, and there's always a chance of losing. Having said that if the reward is greater than the risk, I usually go for it. In this case I'd pass.
You recommend against the BG EPR flushes? I have never done one. I have a friend who swears by them. He says he just did one and got 1.5 MPG improved fuel economy.
It's BITOG. People recommend against everything including the oil the manufacturer recommends
You are referring to Wally oils that are cheap, but nonetheless quite excellent. Talking about Supertech and QSFS. The world may be down on additives, but I believe Liqui Moly to be excellent and use Ceratec or MOS every 30,000 miles or so along with a flush and a rinse and dump of cheap new oil. The cheap oils at WALLY have add packs and are very good.
I’m actually in the middle of a cleanup test on my friend’s vehicle as we speak. Those very oils weren’t up to the task and showed obvious breakdown. As always it’s vehicle and condition dependent. Full details with pics by year end.
If you have a problem and need a flush it’s worth a try. I wouldn’t randomly do a flush for no reason and certainly wouldn’t pay a dealer to do it on my vehicle as an upsell.
Exactly. You can easily be legally correct and still lose because they know that no one is going to spend $5k on lawyer fees to win a $10k case.
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