Repowered my Snapper pushmower

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My Kawasaki 5HP FC150v powered Snapper commercial mower finally breathed it's last. The crankshaft had been bent+straightened twice and the engine had been struggling with low compression, blowby and low power for the last couple of years. It had become difficult to start and once warmed up, would not idle due to blowby. (had to pull the breather off of the airfilter to get the thing to idle at all) . Yes, the engine was simply worn out. That's what happens when you mow 2 Florida acres of tough stuff every week. I guess 18 years is a good long run! Finally, it simply would not power through the tall grass.

So, I purchased a Honda GCV190 from "small engine warehouse" for $180 and proceeded to adapt it. The engine was not really in a typical mower configuration and came with a very interesting clutch on the crankshaft. The Snapper does not use a clutch, so I removed it. I then put the Snapper pulley on the crank, amazingly, it fit perfectly and was at exactly the right height.

The blade adapter was another story. It was too lose due to a stepped diameter nose on the crank. So I machined a "press fit" nose bushing for the stepped crankshaft and drilled the hole for the larger bolt of the Honda. After some minor machining, the blade height was correct and I assembled the thing.

I'm pleased. It started right up, is reasonably quiet and has plenty of power. The only downside is that it does vibrate a good bit more that the smaller displacement Kawasaki.

5.1+HP+HONDA+GCV190-LABHH+VERTICAL+ENGINE_L.jpg
 
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Here is the correct direct bolt on replacement that has a cast iron cylinder liner for next time you need an engine in another 18 years. A heavier duty version of the engine that you bought with the proper crankshaft.

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/GSV190-LAS3A.html?sc=17&category=1710801

I probably would have went with the Briggs 850 series professional series myself (850 series has cast iron liner). Probably the best mower engine on the market right now (besides Kawasaki)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Stratton-...=item20f0b91e66

Ooohhh, this Professional series engine has an oil filter. And it is a bargain at $159.

http://www.smallenginesurplus.com/briggs-stratton-190cc-series-12s9750144-p-4085.html
 
I'm asking, "Where's the red?"

The best Honda engines has red paint on them, and a white painted gas tank...see them a lot on log splitters and generators. .. for a push mower, that engine will do just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: Vern_in_IL
I'm asking, "Where's the red?"

The best Honda engines has red paint on them, and a white painted gas tank...see them a lot on log splitters and generators. .. for a push mower, that engine will do just fine.


You are 100% correct. That is a consumer grade engine. The old Snapper just does not have another 20 years in it, nor do I. So I went with the far less expensive option.

However, this engine is rated at 250 hours emissions compliance. That certainly seems like enough for my uses.

I've used this size Honda engine on other mowers. I always liked it's torque when cutting thick grass. It's a strong one.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Here is the correct direct bolt on replacement that has a cast iron cylinder liner for next time you need an engine in another 18 years. A heavier duty version of the engine that you bought with the proper crankshaft.

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/GSV190-LAS3A.html?sc=17&category=1710801

I probably would have went with the Briggs 850 series professional series myself (850 series has cast iron liner). Probably the best mower engine on the market right now (besides Kawasaki)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Briggs-Stratton-...=item20f0b91e66

Ooohhh, this Professional series engine has an oil filter. And it is a bargain at $159.

http://www.smallenginesurplus.com/briggs-stratton-190cc-series-12s9750144-p-4085.html


I avoided the Briggs as there are multiple reports of broken crankshafts. Nor am I convinced the build quality is all that good on Briggs engines. I've had nothing but trouble with them.

The Honda is a cheap engine. But that does not mean it's poorly built. It's amazingly simple, and has a great reputation for power. I suspect but do not actually know, that the Honda is the more powerful of the choices. Certainly it's way more torquey than the previous engine. But, it's not as torquey as my Duraforce Lawnboy.
 
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Originally Posted By: Cujet

I'm pleased. It started right up, is reasonably quiet and has plenty of power. The only downside is that it does vibrate a good bit more that the smaller displacement Kawasaki.

Yeah I noticed that as well when I re-powered one of my old B&S Snappers with a GCV160...

May not apply in your case, but when I redrilled the deck to fit the Honda in a north/south configuration I drilled holes for all four mounting points... Seen mowers with badly bent cranks that shook less... Tried three other blades and another adapter with different clocking with no help(crank is straight I verified with dial indicator prior to starting swap)... After a couple months I decided to remove a bolt leaving only three as the B&S used, vibration was reduced probably 80%... It still has a noticeable shake at startup but quickly subsides as engine warms up...
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
After a couple months I decided to remove a bolt leaving only three as the B&S used, vibration was reduced probably 80%... It still has a noticeable shake at startup but quickly subsides as engine warms up...


In my case, the Snapper only has 3 bolts holding the engine on. The 4th hole does not line up with either engine.
 
Nice work! Nothin' better than a successful re-power.

That is an interesting Honda GC. Any idea what it was an OEM replacement for? I've never seen a clutch (or coupling?) like that.

Do the 190's offer that much more power over the 160s? Reason I ask is, GCV160s can be had for under $100.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Nice work! Nothin' better than a successful re-power.

That is an interesting Honda GC. Any idea what it was an OEM replacement for? I've never seen a clutch (or coupling?) like that.

Do the 190's offer that much more power over the 160s? Reason I ask is, GCV160s can be had for under $100.


Thanks!

Not sure about the difference in power. Other than to say, small engines make power based on displacement. Based on this, I'd guess 17-18% more torque.

According to the Honda website, the 160 makes 9.4Lb/ft torque and the 190 makes 11.3 (about a 17% difference)

As I mentioned above, I've used mowers with the 190 and they are about the most powerful in tall grass of any commonly available mower engine. I believe you would have to go with a Lawnboy Duraforce to get more torque for thick grass.
 
Originally Posted By: super20dan
why didnt you buy the correct engine instead of adapting something not ment for a snapper .

No hot rodder in your blood eh?? What fun would that be??

The deck whether it be Snapper or any other brand is stupid, it's just as happy with a B&S, Honda or even a old Wisconsin... So the engine needed a little adapting, that's what hot rodding is all about...

I adapted a used Honda GCV160 to a Snapper in June '11, no doubt the most powerful and enjoyable to use Snapper I've ever owned... I've said goodby to those old B&S flatties forever...
 
Nice work. I repowered a 4-stroke Lawn-Boy with a dead Tecumseh with a Honda GCV160. I recently got an HRB217 with the same GCV190 that you used here. I must say -- there certainly is a noticeable difference in power with that 190. I thought the 160 was sufficient (and it really is), but the 190 feels like it's in a different class.
 
Originally Posted By: super20dan
why didn't you buy the correct engine instead of adapting something not meant for a snapper .


Price was a key factor. The correct engine does not really exist, other than the Briggs. Which, I don't want as they break crankshafts.

The higher end Honda CSV was nearly a hundred bucks more. And, even then the crankshaft is not a perfect match.

Interestingly, the one I purchased has a more robust crankshaft. It only steps down where it's needed. Not a bad thing at all.

It was an easy enough task to make this one work. All I had to do was make a bushing on the lathe and drill the hole larger. No biggie.
 
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Briggs don't "break" crankshafts, unless you hit something really hard, and then they just bend. And if you get the Briggs with the 25 mm crank, it is as tough as they come. And all the proper parts (pulley and blade adaptor) are readily available. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Guess I hit something really hard(a 4" plum tree stump in neighbors yard), blade wasn't bent... Yeah it had the 7/8" crank...

brokemower_zpsb3068ac2.jpg
 
Me too. I've been tinkering with this stuff for over 30yrs and I've never seen a shaft shear like that. Anything can happen though.. That's why it's heart-breaking to see a good engine die this way. A Wal*Mart special or a $1000 Honda will die the same death attempting to mow something un-mowable.
 
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