is it neccesary to replace the brake hardware if im not experiencing any squeaks or rattles? likely im just going to slap in the cheap pads from either autozone or kragen and then take the rotors to pepboys to have resurfaced.
replacing brake hardware
- Thread starter Pistons23
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as long as nothing's broke, just clean 'em up real good and then put new grease.
and should i even resurface them? pepboys wants $10 each if i bring them in. they seem to just have the normal wear grooves. nothing deep
Your new pads will likely last twice as long if you resurface the rotors. How much are new rotors? I replaced a set on my Saturn and they only cost $15 each.
new rotors are $34 each
I wouldn't bother having them resurfaced, BUT here's what I would do...
As long as the rotors have plenty of thickness,
Get some brake cleaner, and some 180-220 grit sandpaper.
Scour both sides of the rotor thoroughly, and clean them off well with brake cleaner. This will give you a nice clean surface to bed the new pads in on.
Clean and re-grease the caliper pins, and put a dab of RTV or anti squeel to the backs of the pads.
Install the pads, and break them in according to the manufacturer of the pads. I usually do 5 stops from 30, then 3 stops from 50 (MPH) avoid riding the brakes, or resting your foot on them if you're at a stop. Allow them to cool, and you're all set.
I've done this ever time I install pads, including track cars, and I've always had good brake feel, with smooth strong braking.
As long as the rotors have plenty of thickness,
Get some brake cleaner, and some 180-220 grit sandpaper.
Scour both sides of the rotor thoroughly, and clean them off well with brake cleaner. This will give you a nice clean surface to bed the new pads in on.
Clean and re-grease the caliper pins, and put a dab of RTV or anti squeel to the backs of the pads.
Install the pads, and break them in according to the manufacturer of the pads. I usually do 5 stops from 30, then 3 stops from 50 (MPH) avoid riding the brakes, or resting your foot on them if you're at a stop. Allow them to cool, and you're all set.
I've done this ever time I install pads, including track cars, and I've always had good brake feel, with smooth strong braking.
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In my 1996 Ford Contour I ran my OEM factory pads for 60,000 miles. I replaced them with true OEM pads, twice the price of Motorcraft pads. The rotors were smooth and measured good so I cleaned them up and just put in the new OEM pads. 20,000+ miles later they are still smooth stopping on the original factory rotors that have NEVER been turned.
When you turn rotors now a days you run the risk of them warping because they are thin from the manufacture.
My ford truck rotors were turned during warranty at 19,000 miles because of a stuck caliber, new Motorcraft pads were put in. By 35,000 miles the rotors had warped so bad I had to replace the "newish" pads and factory rotors. This is because the turned factory rotors are thin to begin with and warp more with heat when turned, even in easy use.
Now I don't turn rotors I just change them with the pads if they are out of spec.
Whimsey
When you turn rotors now a days you run the risk of them warping because they are thin from the manufacture.
My ford truck rotors were turned during warranty at 19,000 miles because of a stuck caliber, new Motorcraft pads were put in. By 35,000 miles the rotors had warped so bad I had to replace the "newish" pads and factory rotors. This is because the turned factory rotors are thin to begin with and warp more with heat when turned, even in easy use.
Now I don't turn rotors I just change them with the pads if they are out of spec.
Whimsey
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Originally Posted By: ryan2022
Install the pads, and break them in according to the manufacturer of the pads. I usually do 5 stops from 30, then 3 stops from 50 (MPH) avoid riding the brakes, or resting your foot on them if you're at a stop. Allow them to cool, and you're all set.
As you say follow the pad mfg instructions. Rememeber that some mfg, such as Akebono, do not recommend anything other than to drive normally & try to avoid hard braking for xxx miles.
I can't say that I would let Pepboys resurface rotors for me. They typically don't have the right folks running the right equipment. Their finish is usually way off. They will take off more than is necessary.
If the hardware doesn't look pitted or damaged, just clean it up & lube where called for. Which vehicle? How many miles?
Install the pads, and break them in according to the manufacturer of the pads. I usually do 5 stops from 30, then 3 stops from 50 (MPH) avoid riding the brakes, or resting your foot on them if you're at a stop. Allow them to cool, and you're all set.
As you say follow the pad mfg instructions. Rememeber that some mfg, such as Akebono, do not recommend anything other than to drive normally & try to avoid hard braking for xxx miles.
I can't say that I would let Pepboys resurface rotors for me. They typically don't have the right folks running the right equipment. Their finish is usually way off. They will take off more than is necessary.
If the hardware doesn't look pitted or damaged, just clean it up & lube where called for. Which vehicle? How many miles?
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I pad slap all the time. I don't like resurfacing the rotors - period. I've personally never worn out a rotor except on my Caravan where there was a void in the casting. The children did a few times until I figured out how to keep ahead of them.
The problem arises when you pad slap for too many years and the brake fluid may need routine exchanging. Most consumers have this occur naturally due to requiring a full brake service every 2-3 years since they often don't do preemptive pad replacement.
The problem arises when you pad slap for too many years and the brake fluid may need routine exchanging. Most consumers have this occur naturally due to requiring a full brake service every 2-3 years since they often don't do preemptive pad replacement.
Getting new cheap rotors with good pads is what I like.
If you scuff/sand them, bear down , but do it evenly.
Cutting? It's up to you - an individual judgment call.
Problems with pad material deposits and subsequent pulsating are more of a high performance problem. Mon n Pop driving is different. You can get away with a lot more.
And don't use RTV on the back of the pads - it will only glue things. It is not a vibration/noise damper. Anti squeal sauce looks similar, but it ends there. Anti squeal sauce is fine if needed, however.
New hardware? If your caliper pins and seals are OK and not corroded, clean them and lube them with brake grease, and re use them. Rear drum springs? Unless rusted, rarely needed.
Once again. really clean and lube things.
If you scuff/sand them, bear down , but do it evenly.
Cutting? It's up to you - an individual judgment call.
Problems with pad material deposits and subsequent pulsating are more of a high performance problem. Mon n Pop driving is different. You can get away with a lot more.
And don't use RTV on the back of the pads - it will only glue things. It is not a vibration/noise damper. Anti squeal sauce looks similar, but it ends there. Anti squeal sauce is fine if needed, however.
New hardware? If your caliper pins and seals are OK and not corroded, clean them and lube them with brake grease, and re use them. Rear drum springs? Unless rusted, rarely needed.
Once again. really clean and lube things.
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x3 on no need to resurface if no problems. Just gives you a chance to introduce a new issue.
I would be very careful where I got my rotors turned. A [censored] machine and/or an inexperienced operator can really screw you up.
clean and lube is a must. Most people forget the calipers usually have more points of contact than just the pins. Lube them all!
I would be very careful where I got my rotors turned. A [censored] machine and/or an inexperienced operator can really screw you up.
clean and lube is a must. Most people forget the calipers usually have more points of contact than just the pins. Lube them all!
Originally Posted By: mcrn
ryan2022 do you give the brakes time in between those stops to cool or just do them all back to back?
Sorry for the long reply.
Well, I usually find a long straight road thats quiet. Id say they arent completely cool between braking, but consistent driving will cool a vented rotor fairly quickly.
Id give a good 5-10 seconds between stops (slows)
ryan2022 do you give the brakes time in between those stops to cool or just do them all back to back?
Sorry for the long reply.
Well, I usually find a long straight road thats quiet. Id say they arent completely cool between braking, but consistent driving will cool a vented rotor fairly quickly.
Id give a good 5-10 seconds between stops (slows)
i talked with my nieghbor. he has a set of digital calipers hes going to let me use. if theres enough material, ill just clean and sand the rotor surfaces. if theres not, then ill get new rotors. im sure the cheap $20 brakebest pads at kragen will do the job just fine. if it matters, its a 2000 ford ranger xl. its a regular cab with 168k on the odometer. ive got new shocks on the way. ive also got plans to replace the sway bar end links and check out some junk yards for a bronco2 rear sway bar.
I have never done a brake job without resurfacing or replacing rotors. It just doesn't feel right to me.
The mounts on the bracket should be wire brushed clean, then the hardware should be reinstalled. If the hardware appears worn or rusted, then it should be replaced. Some vehicle manufacturers want the bracket lubed before installing the clips, but this isn't common.
I've found that lube does little except for attracting lots of nasty dust, despite with the major brake companies tell you.
The mounts on the bracket should be wire brushed clean, then the hardware should be reinstalled. If the hardware appears worn or rusted, then it should be replaced. Some vehicle manufacturers want the bracket lubed before installing the clips, but this isn't common.
I've found that lube does little except for attracting lots of nasty dust, despite with the major brake companies tell you.
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have never done a brake job without resurfacing or replacing rotors. It just doesn't feel right to me.
How many have you done that absolutely did not require resurfacing other than your own personal standard? Most people never get brake service until it's an absolute "must do". States with inspections tend to snag them at near "end of life" ..or beyond it.
I wouldn't do it (pad slap) "in the trade". There's no upside to it as a professional.
have never done a brake job without resurfacing or replacing rotors. It just doesn't feel right to me.
How many have you done that absolutely did not require resurfacing other than your own personal standard? Most people never get brake service until it's an absolute "must do". States with inspections tend to snag them at near "end of life" ..or beyond it.
I wouldn't do it (pad slap) "in the trade". There's no upside to it as a professional.
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