Replacing a toilet fill valve. Need to replace the supply line?

Not sure what you have... what I’m familiar with is 3/8”compression by 7/8” for a toilet tank supply. It’s possible your supply valve is 1/2” compression. There’s adapters to go 1/2-3/8” compression. Unless you do have 1/2” pipe threads there’s a supply line like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidma...nector-with-3-8-in-Adaptor-B4T12CSW/206050471

That is in fact what I got, although I didn't read your post until I got home. I was going somewhere today and planned on taking the old line with me to check but was in a hurry and forgot. HD had this board with sample connectors to check the correct type. I got really confused at what the size was. I guess it was a 1/2" FIP, although I had no idea what the difference was between FIP and compression. But it fits. The stapled tag also says "WEST COAST" implying that this connection is more common in the west.

I would have preferred 9" since it's a really short connection and the 12" line bunches up a bit. But this particular version doesn't have a 9" version. I think maybe 20" or 32" - definitely longer which I don't need. I found the Click Seal feature interesting. I kept on turning it tighter and tighter. In fact tighter than I'd normally tighten the ballcock connector since I'd be afraid of cracking the plastic shank and where I've never had a leak at that end. Then it clicked like a click-style torque wrench stopping. I could still spin the connector but it seemed loose and not tightening anything. Then I felt a little bit of resistant spinning it past a certain point, but I figure that's what it does and it was already as tight as it needed to be.

I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with the Fluidmaster B1T09CS that I bought and then got refunded without actually returning.
 
Glad you got the correct supply.. You can always give the supply a loop around so it looks more neat.
 
Glad you got the correct supply.. You can always give the supply a loop around so it looks more neat.
I'd prefer a shorter line though. It might be possible for me to use the 9" 3/8" compression one I have with an adapter, but that would look rather awkward.

I found the 1/2" FIP ones sometimes come with a 3/8" compression adapter that more or less hides in the fitting. A few come with 3 adapters. And Click Seal seems kind of a neat trick. I wonder if it might be worth it to occasionally loosen and retighten it.
 
Just one more comment. I'm not looking to replace the fill valve in a little used toilet, but maybe replace the line there since it's also kind of old. So I headed to my closest Home Depot looking for the same item (a Fluidmaster B4T12CSW) but couldn't find it. They did have the Fluidmaster B4T12UCS and lots of them - maybe $1 more. I didn't necessarily see them on the shelf and when I looked on the HD website, they were saying there were several B4T12CSW.

This one is at its heart the same, but it comes with 3/8" and a 7/16" adapters that fit inside the 1/2" FIP cap. The one I got only had the 3/8" adapter. Ideally I wouldn't need an adapter, but the only version that Fluidmaster has without an adapter seems to be the standard one without the Click Seal ballcock end. I found this on the HD website, but it's some sort of spec sheet from Fluidmaster:


78e056b1-8391-47d2-a2ec-3414ea10cd3a.pdf


The ones from Brasscraft were different. Obviously no Click Seal, although Fluidmaster has sold those fittings to Shark Bite. All the toilet supply lines from Brasscraft had some sort of nylon braid rather than the stainless steel braid in other brands like Fluidmaster.
 
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