Replacing a leaky natural gas valve

[y_p_w]

My mom asked to have a look at it (for an investment property) at lunchtime, and I figured it was above my pay grade and we called in the utility company to have a free safety check. I made the call and it was weird because they called it an "emergency" and the automated messages (before talking to customer service) with a warning to not be there if there was any kind of gas odor and don't use any electronics or flashlights. And they said they could possibly get there within 5 minutes, although it turned into maybe 30 minutes. When the tech arrive my mom was wandering around the neighborhood and I had to find her.

He didn't seem to be too concerned that things would blow up even though the automated messages when I originally called were about staying outdoors and waiting for the cavalry to arrive. He said we were fine to just watch him work. He had a methane detector and started probing the lines in the gas dryer and then right at a T splitting the gas to the water heater and furnace. That's when it just started going off, so it was definitely a leak there. He had a spray bottle with soapy water and sprayed it there and determined that it was leaking from the end of the valve, but not the valve mechanism. He tightened it and there doesn't seem to be a leak any more but said it wasn't a permanent fix and it needs a new valve.

It was really nice as the tech checked all the gas appliances in the house to determine if they were in good working order and did a check of the meter.

I for one am not qualified to do this sort of work. The tech said it was a temporary fix, but that the valve should probably be replaced. We have someone who can fix this and is apprently coming tomorrow. I sent this photo to my parents and they sent it to the guy who does the work and he said something about 1/2". I don't think there's anything quite like it, but just where the valve mechanisms are different. I think it takes this:

BrassCraft 1/2 in. OD Flare x 1/2 in. FIP Gas Ball Valve PSSD-41 - The Home Depot

BrassCraft Manufacturing's exclusive line of Italian-made gas ball valves are specially engineered to provide unsurpassed product performance. From the stem to the body to the exclusive handle design,

www.homedepot.com

 

[SHOZ]

Looks like you need a 1/2" female npt pipe on each end, not a flare.

The Plumber's Choice 1/2 in. Brass FIP Gas Ball Valve with Yellow Aluminum Alloy Handle FIPY12 - The Home Depot

The Plumber's Choice Premium Brass Gas Valve is the ideal choice for flow control in your gas applications. It features a solid forged brass construction, stainless steel ball, aluminum alloy handle, blow out proof stem and secure connections. Manufactured with the highest quality materials and...

www.homedepot.com

 

[y_p_w]

Looks like you need a 1/2" female npt pipe on each end, not a flare.

The Plumber's Choice 1/2 in. Brass FIP Gas Ball Valve with Yellow Aluminum Alloy Handle FIPY12 - The Home Depot

The Plumber's Choice Premium Brass Gas Valve is the ideal choice for flow control in your gas applications. It features a solid forged brass construction, stainless steel ball, aluminum alloy handle, blow out proof stem and secure connections. Manufactured with the highest quality materials and...

www.homedepot.com

Cool. I think that’s only available for shipping, but they have similar valves in stock.

ProLine Series 1/2-in FIP Brass 1-piece Gas Ball Valve Series 7701G 110-523HC - The Home Depot

The One-Piece Gas Ball Valve by ProLine Series is safe for use with LP gas, natural gas, oil and traditional plumbing uses. This valve is built from forged brass as a one-piece body which creates leak

www.homedepot.com

 

[Jdeere562]

At least the tech they sent found your leak! Probably 30 years ago, I had the smell of gas out around my meter. They said that they would send a tech to check it out, so I went to work. Note on my door said they found no leak, it was just the odor in the gas.

So I got my bottle of soapy water out and found the leak. Gas meter and piping was painted grey. So I used I Sharpie and wrote on the pipe "leak here" with an arrow pointed at the pipe. They fixed it the next day while I was at work. Took me two calls to get it fixed.

 

[DemoFly]

Yes, calling a gas company for a gas leak or gas smell is an emergency call.

It's a temporary fix because all those pipe joints need to be re-doped once the tech re-tightened that full-thread nipple. (which appears to have hardly any dope on it at all)

I can't tell whats on the bottom outlet of that valve but I'd replace it with a hex nipple to make reassembly a cakewalk.

 

[y_p_w]

Yes, calling a gas company for a gas leak or gas smell is an emergency call.

It's a temporary fix because all those pipe joints need to be re-doped once the tech re-tightened that full-thread nipple. (which appears to have hardly any dope on it at all)

I can't tell whats on the bottom outlet of that valve but I'd replace it with a hex nipple to make reassembly a cakewalk.

We got the part at HD. It was weird because it was the Everbilt house brand on the tag and a shelf tag that said it was on closeout for less than $4 but came up at $11.80 at the register. Looks just like the Proline one - with ITALY on the body.

We also got a tube of RectorSeal 5 pipe thread sealant.

Looking at it, I’m thinking maybe a new valve isn’t strictly needed if fresh sealant is reapplied. But it might be better since a new valve has new rubber seals. The old one looks really nasty.

 

[Urshurak776]

I feel I'm pretty handy. It kills me to call someone to do something at my house.

But, gas valves and piping.......not comfortable with that!

 

[facility1]

best to change out valve and related fittings,make sure to clean all the threads upon fitting back together to the closest union (possibly replace this also). Rector seal 5 is fine to use. make sure to soap test all connections!!

 

[LazyDog]

I am sure you got a other gas valves in other appliances you might consider doing them at some point.

 

[SHOZ]

Gas is usually around 1 psi so if you can get water pipes to not leak you can do to gas. Just be sure to use the soap when done.

I've had propane for decades. In 2015 I had a new supplier and tank put in. They used the new plastic and steel fittings. I had the old flared copper and he showed me why they no longer used it.

The flare nut fitting coming off the tank had a crack in it, almost all the way through and completely split. All the thermal stress over the years took it's toll.

 

[JohnnyG]

Looks like you need a 1/2" female npt pipe on each end, not a flare.

The Plumber's Choice 1/2 in. Brass FIP Gas Ball Valve with Yellow Aluminum Alloy Handle FIPY12 - The Home Depot

The Plumber's Choice Premium Brass Gas Valve is the ideal choice for flow control in your gas applications. It features a solid forged brass construction, stainless steel ball, aluminum alloy handle, blow out proof stem and secure connections. Manufactured with the highest quality materials and...

www.homedepot.com

That's correct. In addition, the elbow below the valve should be a TEE fitting with a 6" leg going straight down and capped. Typically called a "drip leg" and will catch any rust that occurs inside the vertical leg of piping above. It would also catch any slight condensation that could possibly occur, and not let it carry through to the next appliance.

They also sell a liquid leak detector that is designed for gas leakage checks. I forget what it's called, but it works better than plain soapy water.

 

[Nukeman7]

They also sell a liquid leak detector that is designed for gas leakage checks. I forget what it's called, but it works better than plain soapy water.

"Snoop" is typically used for industrial applications, but a soapy water solution will suffice for the OP's application.

 

[y_p_w]

I’m here watching the work, and I’m thinking maybe it didn’t really need replacement as long as the threads were all properly re-sealed. However, we got the part and the old one looks like it could be older than me. Our repair guy is taking apart the whole setup (even to the dryer) just to be able to take it out. Looks like this valve was the cutoff to the furnace and dryer even though the furnace and dryer each have their own shutoff valves. It got really convoluted with three gas appliances in the same room. I think it originally had an electric dryer but my mom wanted a gas dryer. That tubing looks way newer and different.

I looked and there was already a 4 oz can of RectorSeal 5 in this room - probably left from previous work. I guess that can be used and we’ll return the tube. I guess it also helps that it has a brush. I checked the contents of the can and it had separated, but I guess it needs to be stirred. I wonder how it works for the tube where it can’t be stirred.

Our repair guy got the valve off. It’s all crusty and the valve seems to be fused/stuck open. So replacing it is clearly a good idea.

 

[y_p_w]

Actually, he didn’t use the valve. Each appliance already has its own shutoff valve and that one wasn’t really needed. I think it made it easier to reconnect the lines.

 

[oilcandave]

Those plug valves just need to be repacked...turn off gas at meter. Remove the nut at valve bottom. Remove valve stem and grease. Reinstall and move on with your life. 10 minute job..

 

[y_p_w]

Those plug valves just need to be repacked...turn off gas at meter. Remove the nut at valve bottom. Remove valve stem and grease. Reinstall and move on with your life. 10 minute job..

Nah. He just removed the entire valve but needed to disassemble a bunch of tubes and re-seal the fittings with RectorSeal 5. He used a copious amount. Like I said earlier, each appliance has its own shutoff valve and this one was probably there from a long time ago and left open. And it just wouldn’t close where it’s corroded open.

There’s no gas smell. The only problem now is we were having a heck of a time lighting the furnace pilot. I remember trying to do it before and it was a massive pain. I forgot whether or not I needed to light the hood or the thermocouple.

I wasn’t comfortable doing it myself, and I don’t have the tools.

 

[SHOZ]

That old valve should have been retired in the 80s!

 

[y_p_w]

That old valve should have been retired in the 80s!

Found one for sale on eBay. I left in the spelling error.

Vintage Zepher Brass Petcock Gas Valve

Vintage Zepher Brass Petcock Gas Valve | eBay

Both ends are 1/2" female pipe thread. Turns stiff. Included is a Duro with a male thread on one side, not sure the thread. Sold as found.

www.ebay.com

It was more than just the valve, but also an outside threaded connector tube. All of that was taken out in favor of just connecting a tee to a tube.

 

[Pablo]

We bought a house that had TWO gas leaks.

I smelled it when we first took possession. Gas Co rolled and fixed.

FTR: Home inspector missed both, I biotched and at least the guy refunded the inspection cost. I never paid for a home inspection since.

 

[Dinoburner]

Those plug valves just need to be repacked...turn off gas at meter. Remove the nut at valve bottom. Remove valve stem and grease. Reinstall and move on with your life. 10 minute job..

First off, gas valves such as shown need a special grease, second the valve shown if over tightened will distort and leak. The threaded portion is too close to the barrel. Have seen many of these leak. Also some areas disallow anyone other than a licensed person to turn on a gas meter.