Replacing Saddle Valve with Compression Stop Valve

[tbm5690]

My RO system currently uses a saddle valve to tap into its feed source. The valve will no longer close, so I'm looking to replace it with a compression style 1/4 turn stop valve. The issue is that I don't have enough pipe to cut out the puncture from the saddle valve and still have enough left to seat the new compression stop. The puncture will be past the compression ring, so will I be OK in that case since the ring should still clamp and seal off the pipe after the hole?

 

[CarLuver]

what i would do is remove the saddle and remove that peice of pipe and sweat on a new stub . then attach the compression stop to the end .

you could also remove it at the 90 coming out the wall and put the compression directly to that . both though need heat

 

[JeffKeryk]

Saddle valves are flat out stupid, not to mention destructive.

 

[Cujet]

Looking at the picture, you might have enough "meat" on the stub, upstream of the hole, for the compression fitting to grip.

 

[Rand]

options:

1.simply replace that saddle valve with a new one.

2. cut off and prep the pipe end then use a sharkbite or similar.
might have enough room to seat... needs less than 1"

3. replace the stub.

is that 1/2" copper or 3/8? looks small

3/8 sharkbite copper to valve

https://www.grainger.com/product/19F890

 

[CarLuver]

Saddle valves are flat out stupid, not to mention destructive.

while true, i ahve seen so many that have lasted decades in homes. i always remove them when i encounter them

 

[Rand]

Saddle valves are flat out stupid, not to mention destructive.

And... widely used. esp. in kitchen for running water to a fridge for example.
or adding filtered water faucet.. etc.
They seem to be slowly fading away.. but were an easy do it yourself solution to having a plumber come out.

 

[tbm5690]

Thanks for the replies. I've never done a sweat before, which is why I bought a compression fitting hoping to keep things easy. Chose compression over shark bite so that if it leaks down the road it's easier to remove. I heard replacing a saddle with a new saddle is a gamble on whether or not it will hold tight? That's easiest but I do like the idea of eliminating the saddle altogether. This was installed in 1998 or so by the previous owners, so it has held up for that long without issue other than of course the fact that I can't close it to stop flow. I'm glad they didn't tap the main line...at least this is dedicated pipe for the RO and nothing else.

 

[Nukeman7]

Thanks for the replies. I've never done a sweat before, which is why I bought a compression fitting hoping to keep things easy. Chose compression over shark bite so that if it leaks down the road it's easier to remove.

The easiest shut off valve to install and remove is the Keeney brand of push on fittings. They can be found at all ACE Hardware stores and at most Lowes stores. The Keeney design locks with a thin circlip and does not require an unlock tool to release it from the pipe like the Sharkbite design. You will need ~3/4" of pipe stub for it to seat correctly.

Check out the video below.

 

[CarLuver]

Thanks for the replies. I've never done a sweat before, which is why I bought a compression fitting hoping to keep things easy. Chose compression over shark bite so that if it leaks down the road it's easier to remove. I heard replacing a saddle with a new saddle is a gamble on whether or not it will hold tight? That's easiest but I do like the idea of eliminating the saddle altogether. This was installed in 1998 or so by the previous owners, so it has held up for that long without issue other than of course the fact that I can't close it to stop flow. I'm glad they didn't tap the main line...at least this is dedicated pipe for the RO and nothing else.

if your home is copper piped, learning to solder copper is a good skill to learn in case you have a frozen pipe or pinhole. its pretty easy and basic.



if that was my house , i would remove the 90 and just put the compression on the stub coming out

 

[bullwinkle]

if your home is copper piped, learning to solder copper is a good skill to learn in case you have a frozen pipe or pinhole. its pretty easy and basic.



if that was my house , i would remove the 90 and just put the compression on the stub coming out

Just HAVE to get ALL the water out-even if it means stuffing a dough ball up the pipe to stop any drips. Otherwise it’ll be impossible to get a good joint, which is why I often resort to refrigeration silver braze if I can’t keep it ry enough.

 

[Hall]

Watts has a line of push-to-connect fittings (Aqua Lock) that might fit. I think Sharkbite says 1" insertion across the board no matter the pipe size but Watts just says to refer to the insertion marks on each fitting. I'm thinking it will vary based on the pipe diameter so you might get lucky.

 

[mk378]

You could buy a 1/4" push in tubing valve and put it in line in the plastic tubing. Leave everything about the saddle valve alone-- don't try to turn it off.

 

[tbm5690]

Thanks for all the input. I was able to slice the pipe right at the saddle valve hole and it left a perfect amount of clearance for the new compression stop.

 

[nate379]

I'd pull the stub and solder a ball valve, but many other ways to do it.
Those chrome stop valves seem to never work after a few years.

 

[oilcandave]

Stops went from compression type to those mini ball valves. Folx thought they would solve that issue but now after just a few years those stops leak at the stem after one use and with no packing gland to tighten..

Debris being carried in with the water would fill in around the threads of the stem. My Dad...50 years ago..would always pack new compression valves with grease so the crap would not reach the threads. I have worked on customers stuff and would run into these valves my dad installed. They all worked fine after 50years.

When possible only install compression valves with the stem vertical so this won't happen.