Replace pitman arm or no?

[dlundblad]

I am accepting defeat this evening.

I started tackling my truck's control arms this evening. While everything was off, my plan was to also replace the tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, and idler arm. Not sure what I was thinking, but I didn't bother checking my current pitman arm. Looks original with a ripped boot so it's as worn as everything else I am sure.

The job looks like a real pain in the keister since the steering box needs to be removed.. Anyone have enough experience with these to know if I should just replace it or not? I wish I would have checked it for play prior to jacking it up and disconnecting everything, but how is one to know..

 

[VeryNoisyPoet]

Replace it. Original suspension part with torn boots is just ripe for going bad, if not failing already. Your goal is a suspension refresh, so it should be swapped as well. The last thing you want is sloppy steering!

Now's your chance to take a good look at everything else under there so you can make a second parts order.

 

[clinebarger]

Check it for Up & Down movement, If the joint is loose....Replace it.

On the fullsize 4x4 trucks......Remove the the Pitman Arm Nut, Cut a slit in the Pitman Arm with a Cut-Off Wheel down to where it "pops" loose on it's own, It's Tapered Spline with a good amount of pressure on it. If it doesn't pop loose on it's own, I use a Chisel to break it open.

Work the entire assembly (Inner/Outer Tie Rods, Idler Arm, Drag Link, & Pitman Arm) out the passenger side.

But I'm good & true with a Radiac so it doesn't create a lot of heat & I have a lift.

 

[Trav]

+1 Replace it, just make sure you have tools you will need for the job,
You will need an impact socket for the arm nut, impact gun, pitman arm puller and some crows foot style line wrenches you can use a long extension on.

Its not a bad job with the right tools.

 

[Driz]

While it’s jacked up have someone wiggle the wheel back and forth. See if there’s any movement , slop or up and down, if none leave it. Pulling is a pain but if you don’t have one you can get a puller at Auto zone and take it back with their tool share program. Pulling the steering box isn’t so ugly if you have a decent air wrench. Just make sure to center up the steering wheel and lock it there till you’re done. Move the wheel too much when unhooked and you’ll bust your clock spring in the column and create another headache! Match mark everything with a scribe si it will all go back in exactly where it was. With the steering box out you can do the pulling in the vise. Still, if you can do it on the truck( clearance, access for puller ) it’s easier to leave the box alone and do it on the truck.
I did my 2000 Sierra last year everything but the idler arm and found Rock had the best prices. Just be sure if you do ugly things with the truck to get the bigger HD version. I got the cheaper version and it’s a whole lot thinner. Works fine but I wouldn’t get anything but the HD there’s that much difference.

 

[dlundblad]

I went ahead and bought the AC Delco Professional from RA. $35 + $15 for next business day shipping.

 

[Trav]

I have a set of these from Astro, they are good quality and I never had one slip, round anything off or break yet. You can find it cheaper on ebay.
I figured if they are not very good I can always spend $200 more for SK but I am happy I bought them, no complaints.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7115-Crowfoot-Wrench-Metric/dp/B00061SFS2

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

Yes if you plan on keeping it. Use the grinder / chisel trick if room.

 

[dlundblad]

I had less time yesterday, but I went to put everything back on on the passenger side.

The upper control arm was the wrong side. I double checked everything and the original receipt and even the box did indeed have the correct p/n.

I've bought many stuff from RA and this is the first time this has happened. Oh well.. not their fault.