Clutch bearing has failed in 2001 Ford Windstar. Can the bearing be replaced without disconnecting the lines and removing the compressor from the vehicle? I know I need to take the compressor loose, just not sure I can position it to access the clutch. If it needs to be removed I will have to take it to a shop.
Replace Ford Windstar AC Clutch Bearing in Vehicle?
- Thread starter Peteco
- Start date
It's on the bottom like a Taurus isnt it? If im thinking right Theres no room for much under there. I think that's the one would loosen the subframe to get the compressor out.
Personally I would not bother with a clutch on a compressor that old because when the bearing fails it overheats the front seal which then leaks the refrigerant out.
Personally I would not bother with a clutch on a compressor that old because when the bearing fails it overheats the front seal which then leaks the refrigerant out.
Step 1 for servicing the clutch on a Windstar is to "remove the compressor." Since I'm not overtly familiar with your van I'd wager it's simply inaccessible while mounted on the engine.
You should have a Nippondenso FS10 compressor, which has a fully replaceable clutch and coil assembly. It's advisable to replace all of it instead of the bearing only.
In addition, the clutch and coil are press-fit units which show a few special tools for removal (although these could probably be fabricated).
Bottom line is Chris142 is probably right. It's not worth screwing around with all of it when you can buy an entire compressor kit (with clutch & coil, accumulator, orifice tube, expansion valve) for under $200.00.
You should have a Nippondenso FS10 compressor, which has a fully replaceable clutch and coil assembly. It's advisable to replace all of it instead of the bearing only.
In addition, the clutch and coil are press-fit units which show a few special tools for removal (although these could probably be fabricated).
Bottom line is Chris142 is probably right. It's not worth screwing around with all of it when you can buy an entire compressor kit (with clutch & coil, accumulator, orifice tube, expansion valve) for under $200.00.
Yes, compressor is on the bottom. But it is not as open as the Taurus. There are videos of clutch removal from Taurus compressor and it's not bad. On Windstar I would need to access from above where it is much less open.
Yes, van is old, But $1500 for shop replacement is too much. I might try it myself, but still a lot for me (actually father-in-law) to do it: $500 parts plus freon charge.
Where can I get a kit for $200?
Van has 120k miles on it. It drives well and transmission shifts good for now. It has had a couple of transmission fluid changes over the years. Could use another change to hopefully keep it going.
Thanks
Chris, I'm replying back to you hoping you will see this. Thanks BTW for your responses on BITOG to help others, like myself a DIY guy.
I'm trying to keep this car going for a couple years as it's my FIL (age 94) and it is sentimental to him even though he can't drive anymore. He is in a care facility now so funds are tight.
I really didn't want to break into the AC system and release the R134 to replace the compressor. I suppose I could have gotten a vacuum pump and charged it myself, but it's been 20 years since I did any AC charging. Local AC shops want $1500-1800 to replace compressor. Not sure what else they replace or if they flush the system. The AC was cooling fine when the clutch bearing went. It turns out I was able to loosen the compressor enough to get the clutch off. When I got the clutch off the face of the pulley and the disk was grooved pretty bad.
I had ordered a clutch pulley (OEM old stock Ford eBay) but turns out I ordered the wrong one. I ordered a complete clutch kit (pulley, clutch face, coil, Four Seasons $75 Amazon). I should have remembered your recommendation to get an entire compressor kit which would have been another $100. I could pull the clutch off that and put it on the old one. Then if the compressor went I would have that.
Anyway, some reviews indicate problems with the aftermarket bearings in the pulley. The new (but wrong) Ford pulley I got has a Nachi (Japan) bearing that should fit the new pulley and I am considering pulling that bearing and putting it in the new Four Seasons pulley.
Am I overthinking this?
I'm trying to keep this car going for a couple years as it's my FIL (age 94) and it is sentimental to him even though he can't drive anymore. He is in a care facility now so funds are tight.
I really didn't want to break into the AC system and release the R134 to replace the compressor. I suppose I could have gotten a vacuum pump and charged it myself, but it's been 20 years since I did any AC charging. Local AC shops want $1500-1800 to replace compressor. Not sure what else they replace or if they flush the system. The AC was cooling fine when the clutch bearing went. It turns out I was able to loosen the compressor enough to get the clutch off. When I got the clutch off the face of the pulley and the disk was grooved pretty bad.
I had ordered a clutch pulley (OEM old stock Ford eBay) but turns out I ordered the wrong one. I ordered a complete clutch kit (pulley, clutch face, coil, Four Seasons $75 Amazon). I should have remembered your recommendation to get an entire compressor kit which would have been another $100. I could pull the clutch off that and put it on the old one. Then if the compressor went I would have that.
Anyway, some reviews indicate problems with the aftermarket bearings in the pulley. The new (but wrong) Ford pulley I got has a Nachi (Japan) bearing that should fit the new pulley and I am considering pulling that bearing and putting it in the new Four Seasons pulley.
Am I overthinking this?
0.165"
Should be ok. I have seen them wear out and split.
I installed the new pulley and clutch plate as it looked to be pretty good quality. I didn't change the electromagnet. The A/C works fine so far.
$75 in parts vs $1500-1800 shop compressor change. Took me a while (I'm slow) but hopefully will hold up for a few years.
I'm putting in another thread regarding burnishing the clutch. Never heard of this before on A/C clutch, just on brakes.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/forums/mechanical-maintenance-forum.23/post-thread
$75 in parts vs $1500-1800 shop compressor change. Took me a while (I'm slow) but hopefully will hold up for a few years.
I'm putting in another thread regarding burnishing the clutch. Never heard of this before on A/C clutch, just on brakes.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/forums/mechanical-maintenance-forum.23/post-thread
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We never had any transmissionmission issues with our 2001 3.8l Windstar when I sold it in 2016 with about 160,000 miles on it. I did quite a few spill and fills and replaced the transmission filter twice. It started to get a bit rusty around 2012-2013 on the door seams and other than the dumb subframe and rear axle recalls it was a decent vehicle. I wish more auto makers would build simple no frills people/cargo haulers these days.
Admittedly, my father is quite lazy (always has been), so preventative maintenance was never his thing.
Agree. Automakers have abandoned struggling families needing a basic kid mover, like the original Dodge Caravan that we had when our kids came along. Basic cars for people starting out are gone too: Toyota Yaris, Hyundai Accent, Honda Fit, Dodge Colt (my first car), VW Beetle, etc.
Was there a shim under the hub? Sometimes the faces wear. If the gap gets too big the magnet can’t pull it in. On budget, I’ve removed, lapped, or found a thinner shim.
