Replace Control Arm or Just Bushings?

[dlundblad]

This is for the Jeep in my sig.

Would Moog be any good in this situation?

I'll have to do some research, but it looks like Rock Auto only sells the Moog rear uppers, which doesn't do me much good if I intend to replace both bushings. Maybe I am missing something and some are interchangeable. I am not sure at this time.

Moog rear upper bushings are $20 for 2. The Mopar bushings are around $50 each.

Moog control arms are about $50 each. Mopar control arms look to be about $120 each.

Getting away with just replacing the bushings would be awesome. It gives me an excuse to pull the trigger on the HF 20 ton shop press which I think I'll need anyways for another upcoming project. Why pay someone ~$100 when I can buy the tool for ~$130 and learn how to do it myself?

 

[Olas]

If the arms are in reasonable shape just push new bushes in. If the arms look suspect replace the whole thing, but some places will sell you an arm with bushes for a very similar price which makes it a lot quicker to replace everything, even without a press.

 

[andyd]

I use a hacksaw and a punch to remove upper control arm bushings. I use a 6 pound hammer and a pipe fitting to set the new bushing. No need for a press to collect dust and take up space.

 

[LeakySeals]

Reading online about problems with Moog the past year or so. The quality appears to have dipped along with the price. Maybe you should ask about that before install. If you are capable just do the bushings. If you go 4-wheeling change the whole thing. The metal takes hits from the ground, etc.

 

[Chris142]

Throw the rubber bushings away and put the hard plastic ones in.

 

[eljefino]

Do the bushings.

I had them go out on my HHR at 180k miles or so. I have a press, so NBD. Ball joint was stuck on one side, so I said, hey, why not just pickle fork it and get an all new LCA. Wrecked the boot, ball joint still tight. Other side went fine, pressed a new bushing in.

Every aftermarket LCA was stamped steel where my OE one aluminum. NBD, it's a beater. Stuck that in there, new ball joint and all.

The aftermarket LCA BJ went to heck and got loose in 15k miles. Luckily I got a TRW joint cheap. Unluckily I had to eat through the rivets to get it installed.

TL;DR, keep as much OE stuff in there as you can.

 

[Nick1994]

I'd buy new control arms, they can be a major PITA pressing in new bushings.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
It gives me an excuse to pull the trigger on the HF 20 ton shop press which I think I'll need anyways for another upcoming project. Why pay someone ~$100 when I can buy the tool for ~$130 and learn how to do it myself?




If you want a press, go for it. That way you know the quality of the bushings you buy vs whatever comes in new control arms. The labor you pay would cover the press.

A press is a handy thing! I have the 12 ton, go for the 20, i wish i had the 20.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Reading online about problems with Moog the past year or so. The quality appears to have dipped along with the price. Maybe you should ask about that before install. If you are capable just do the bushings. If you go 4-wheeling change the whole thing. The metal takes hits from the ground, etc.


Agree; go with OEM on this one for the extra $$ it's worth it. (had an '04 GC and replaced all in the rear)

 

[HoosierJeeper]

The WJ has virtually the same rear UCA as my Liberty (they can interchange with an adapter) and many people on the Liberty forum have had to replace Moog UCAs after a few months. The arm bends really easily too once you press the bushings out. Mopar seems to be the best.

For the lowers, Mopar arms run like $55 each for the Liberty, wouldn't think the WJ is much more.

 

[Trav]

If the arms are in good shape just do the bushing but be careful buying that hf 20 ton. I looked at they and they all had the same defect, the business end was not straight so the thing will press on an angle.

 

[Merkava_4]

You can buy directly from MOOG

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Trav
If the arms are in good shape just do the bushing but be careful buying that hf 20 ton. I looked at they and they all had the same defect, the business end was not straight so the thing will press on an angle.


Thanks for the heads up. I read good things about them over on garage journal so that's why I am in the market for one.

When you say the business end, do you mean the table or the actual press cylinder? I wonder if assembly with a level would help this? I personally wouldn't go by what you see at the stores since they were probably just thrown together.

 

[eljefino]

I have the HF 12 tonner (grey paint edition) and it has more power than I need for pushing in bushings, bearings, etc. Totally approve. Got it for $99.

 

[Trav]

The part the jack pushes down has a large pin welded on that contacts the work, the ones I have seen on the 20 ton have been noticeably bent. It has nothing to do with who assembled it, it was welded on crooked.
Its a cheap price for a press just check it carefully before putting it together, if its bent its easy to see.

 

[Doc8404]

Thanks. Haven't beeen able to find Ck series other places. All RK.