Getting the OEM one looked at would be prudent.
Putting in the overseas rebuilt junk from Auto Zone, and others, would be increasing the likelihood of failure.
Taking out a working OEM part for rebuilt crap isn’t PM, it’s a wallet flush.
Replace alternator - As preventative maintenance?
- Thread starter AJB0009
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Putting in the overseas rebuilt junk from Auto Zone, and others, would be increasing the likelihood of failure.
Taking out a working OEM part for rebuilt crap isn’t PM, it’s a wallet flush.
I've never changed an alternator as PM. I still have the original alternator in my 88 E-150. With my luck and the the way things are done today there's a good chance I might end up with a bad alternator, and a problem I didn't have.
You guys are just lucky, I've had to replace alternators on practically every car I've owned. Mostly died anywhere from 80-120k. On my Taurus, I replaced it 3 times. $200 isn't that cheap for an alternator. I wouldn't do it normally but it sounds like you'll be in there anyway so I'd do it for peace of mind. Seems that starters are lasting a lot longer these days, but not alternators. Basically depends how much you drive. Over half of my driving is city driving so I probably had 2x-3x the amount of time on it vs someone who does all highway. It's mechanical, the bearings and brushes will wear out.
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Who on earth would be dumb enough to replace an alternator with “overseas rebuilt junk”? l didn’t say that, but some people just assume I suppose
...and “have it looked at”? Seriously?
Yeah. Who on earth?Who on earth would be dumb enough to replace an alternator with “overseas rebuilt junk”? l didn’t say that, but some people just assume I suppose
...and “have it looked at”? Seriously?
Except, perhaps, when they say this:
So, what were you suggesting for replacement? You didn’t specify. Most of what is available at auto parts stores is junk.
So. Yeah. Get it looked at.
Seriously.
I’ve had five alternators rebuilt by my local guy. Great work. About $100. Cheaper than any alternative source. You know the figment and amperage are correct.
Never had one fail.
So, get it looked at by a guy like that.
MolaKule
Staff member
My experience lately has been that the starters have failed long before the alternators.
My 1999 S-10 with 233,000 miles has the original alternator but is on its third starter. My Frontier with 80,000+ miles has the original alternator but is also on its third starter. I seem to keep the starter manf. busy for some reason.
My 1999 S-10 with 233,000 miles has the original alternator but is on its third starter. My Frontier with 80,000+ miles has the original alternator but is also on its third starter. I seem to keep the starter manf. busy for some reason.
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Yep, that would probably work for you or me, but the OP did mention that his wife and kids make a long distance trip every year. I also mentioned replacing the water pump and fuel pump too. All new oem parts, but that’s me
If you’re recommending new, and including WP and fuel pump, I agree that that’s a reliability increase, but that’s also some serious coin...over $1K, for all new OEM, I would think...
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“serious coin” for some, is pennies for others. Either way, I guess it all depends on how much value you put in the safety of yourself or your loved ones.
I bought a new, not remanufactured, alternator from Autozone.
It is made in Malaysia. A Nippondenso design.
it is rated for 50 amps at idle, 120 amps max.
When hot at idle it is lucky to make 32 amps, and it maxes out at 109 amps. The output at just above idle speed rpm is pretty good though.
I think the stator windings are a bit lighter in terms of copper mass, than a real OEM NipponDenso alternator would be, but this is just an unproven suspicion, I'd have to test a real ND to see.
If your alternator has an easily removable back cover to see the brush holder, then proactively replacing the brushes is pretty simple and wise, but I'd not replace the alternator with an Autoparts store 'new' and certainly not a remanufactured one, just because the mileage is 135k.
When my predessor to the ND alternator failed, my digital voltmeter alerted me quickly, seeing 12.7v when I was expecting to see 14.7v, where I set it. It was night, I had ~2 more hours/130 miles to drive and a nearly fully charged battery with a 225 reserve minute rating.
Reserve minute rating is how long the battery can provide 25 amps before voltage falls to 10.5v, which is considered 100% discharged.
My digital Ammeter indicated, with headlights and blower motor and stereo on, I was drawing close to 30 amps from the battery.
I turned off stereo and blower motor and load on battery with no functioning alternator, was at about 21 amps.
I just Kept driving the 2 hours as I knew I had enough battery to get to my destination where I could diagnose and replace the failed alternator.
If you have a healthy battery, you can drive quite a distance with a failed charging system, especially if you do not have to drive at night and turn every load off.
A failed alternator does not have to mean stuck on the side of the road requiring a tow. I had friends who would commute 40 miles to and from work with a failed alternator for a week, they'd just plug into a 25 amp smart charger on their return and leave it on overnight. Not great for the battery, but gave them the time and money to replace the alternator when convenient.
Starting batteries don't like to be deeply cycled, but can tolerate it as long as they are not taken below 10.5v and promptly and fully recharged.
A newly installed alternator should not be asked to recharge a well depleted battery. The brushes have not shaped themselves to the commutator yet, and will not be happy passing 6 to 8 amps of field current over such a limited surface area, so always fully charge the battery so it cannot place perhaps 50+ amps of load for an extended period of time on the new or recently rebrushed alternator.
It is made in Malaysia. A Nippondenso design.
it is rated for 50 amps at idle, 120 amps max.
When hot at idle it is lucky to make 32 amps, and it maxes out at 109 amps. The output at just above idle speed rpm is pretty good though.
I think the stator windings are a bit lighter in terms of copper mass, than a real OEM NipponDenso alternator would be, but this is just an unproven suspicion, I'd have to test a real ND to see.
If your alternator has an easily removable back cover to see the brush holder, then proactively replacing the brushes is pretty simple and wise, but I'd not replace the alternator with an Autoparts store 'new' and certainly not a remanufactured one, just because the mileage is 135k.
When my predessor to the ND alternator failed, my digital voltmeter alerted me quickly, seeing 12.7v when I was expecting to see 14.7v, where I set it. It was night, I had ~2 more hours/130 miles to drive and a nearly fully charged battery with a 225 reserve minute rating.
Reserve minute rating is how long the battery can provide 25 amps before voltage falls to 10.5v, which is considered 100% discharged.
My digital Ammeter indicated, with headlights and blower motor and stereo on, I was drawing close to 30 amps from the battery.
I turned off stereo and blower motor and load on battery with no functioning alternator, was at about 21 amps.
I just Kept driving the 2 hours as I knew I had enough battery to get to my destination where I could diagnose and replace the failed alternator.
If you have a healthy battery, you can drive quite a distance with a failed charging system, especially if you do not have to drive at night and turn every load off.
A failed alternator does not have to mean stuck on the side of the road requiring a tow. I had friends who would commute 40 miles to and from work with a failed alternator for a week, they'd just plug into a 25 amp smart charger on their return and leave it on overnight. Not great for the battery, but gave them the time and money to replace the alternator when convenient.
Starting batteries don't like to be deeply cycled, but can tolerate it as long as they are not taken below 10.5v and promptly and fully recharged.
A newly installed alternator should not be asked to recharge a well depleted battery. The brushes have not shaped themselves to the commutator yet, and will not be happy passing 6 to 8 amps of field current over such a limited surface area, so always fully charge the battery so it cannot place perhaps 50+ amps of load for an extended period of time on the new or recently rebrushed alternator.
I should've also added that batteries are a wear item, so replacing them at a regular interval would be a good idea. If I was down south, I'd consider replacing it every 3 years. Up north, 5 years is reasonable.
Driving with a low battery for a long time could take out the alternator since it can't charge a dying battery as well as it can charge a good one.
When you have the belt off, spin the alternator to test the bearings, see if they're smooth or gravelly. Do this with all accessories actually.
Tune your AM radio to an empty station to see if you hear diode whine.
If it passes both tests, keep the one you've got.
Tune your AM radio to an empty station to see if you hear diode whine.
If it passes both tests, keep the one you've got.
x2. Test the alternator first.
It is also easy to test, you can bring the car to any part store and tell them to tell the alternator.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
I wouldn’t do it. As everyone has pointed out at least don’t get an aftermarket if you choose to replace it. We have 7 (8 if you count a big rig as a car) cars in my family 6 of them still have the original alternator well one has a generator but same concept. Decades old and still going excellent. The only one I’ve had to replace is on our 2004 Camry and I have had to do it 3 times because I couldn’t get my dad to buy an OEM or get the original rebuilt. And I done it on my dads Freightliner too which we replaced with a genuine one because that’s all the truck dealer in town sells. I have a local guy here who rebuilds my starters and alternators when needed and also rebuilds many other things too like turbos etc that is what I would look for in your area and just keep the original and have it rebuilt.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
That is great we still have the original on our 1994 E150. And it looks like the easiest thing to change on the engine because it’s at the front LOL.
It isn't a bad job in the E-150 either. I'm pretty sure I'll get some warning before it dies.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Yeah I am sure you will. I hope it doesn’t die though lol. Would be cool to see who can go the longest on an alternator.
Yea. Everything in that van is original except the water pump. I changed that once. Even the light bulbs, every single bulb, is original. LOL
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
Wow lol. Ours still has original water pump too. Everything is original besides the bulbs, distributor cap, rotor and wires, plugs and battery on ours LOL.
Plugs wires, battery, etc. were done.