Repairing cracked brass fitting on air compressor

[EdwardC]

I bought a small 4.6g air compressor last year and it's been great for running small nail guns and filling tires. It started leaking in the last few months and I noticed it to be right where the Tank Pressure gauge was threaded in. I tried removing the gauge and adding some teflon tape to seal it. I put it back in and it was still leaking. I looked closer and the brass female threads where the gauge threaded into had a crack in it.

I don't know how the brass threaded part is attached to the black pipe/manifold as I think I'd like to replace the cracked part. If not, maybe I could solder/sweat/braze the crack? Maybe something simple like some epoxy and a hose clamp?

It is technically still under warranty since it's under a year old and I have contacted the manufacturer, but I am just curious if it would be fixable (in case their service department isn't as helpful).

Thanks!

 

[901Memphis]

Looks like a torch and some solder could fix it

 

[redbone3]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Looks like a torch and some solder could fix it


If you were to wrap the broken fitting with some copper wire and then tin the whole fitting it would probably hold. Soldering up the crack probably won't do it, whatever cracked a brass fitting would break a solder repair quickly.

 

[Trav]

That looks like an 1/8 to 1/4 screw in adapter for the gauge. The black pipe is probably cast aluminum so don't get crazy tightening it, remove it with vise grips or small pipe wrench and get a replacement from HD for a few backs.

It will look like this..

https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-reducer...CFd5MDQodVKgDZQ

Edit: This is NPT thread which are tapered slightly don't use too much tape and tighten lightly but firm, you tighten the hades out of it and things crack.
If its not a reducer and both are the same size its probably a G iso thead to NPT adapter, you can buy those also but usually only from a plumbing shop or online

 

[Pop_Rivit]

I'd just replace the fitting rather than monkey around with trying to fix it.

 

[bioburner]

I'm with Pop Rivit.
Makeshift repair will probably only delay the replacement.
Could try and remove the Teflon and use a good epoxy like JB weld. I have had good success with using that product for several PIA leaks

 

[jhellwig]

Don't screw around with trying to repair something like that. If it blows up it could be deadly. Not likely for that part to blow up but still not a good idea when working with compressed air.

 

[EdwardC]

Thanks everyone!

Trav, I had assumed it wasn't a threaded fitting since it didn't have any flats. I tried with some channel locks this morning and with some light pressure, I was able to unscrew the fitting. Looks like an easy fix. I'll probably take some measurements to confirm, but I think you're exactly right that it's just a 1/4" MNPT to 1/8" FNPT reducer.

Just for fun, I might try clean up the fitting and try solder just to see if I can with just the MAP-Pro torch.

Thanks again everyone!!

 

[EdwardC]

Ok, well, now that you all have solved my problem, it's time to dig deeper into the minutia, as is the Bitog way. As can be seen below, the compressor has the gauges extended out of the metal front panel:

Looks like I can get an exact replacement reducer fitting for about $3-4, which is fine. But, for a few dollars more, I can get a gauge that has a 1/8" MNPT thread. That would eliminate the reducer, reduce the amount that sticks out by about 3/8", and remove an unnecessary (?) joint.

Do you guys think that the reducer was intentionally put in to act as a weak spot so that the manifold doesn't break?

What would you do?

 

[bioburner]

Probably just using what was cheap and or on hand

 

[EdwardC]

Originally Posted By: bioburner
Probably just using what was cheap and or on hand


Well, looks like there's a new development, I got a call from the manufacturer just a minute ago, they confirmed which part I needed and they're sending out a replacement. I guess free is the best price for a fix! Thank you all again. Just in case you all were wondering, it's a California Air Tools compressor, http://www.californiaairtools.com/ Good service.

 

[Trav]

They probably use a 1/4" thread gauge because they are commonly 2" in diameter while the 1/8 are 1.5", if they have a panel with 2" opening it may save them using a different gauge for different models. Nice to hear they are taking care of it.

 

[EdwardC]

Originally Posted By: Trav
They probably use a 1/4" thread gauge because they are commonly 2" in diameter while the 1/8 are 1.5", if they have a panel with 2" opening it may save them using a different gauge for different models. Nice to hear they are taking care of it.


Man, you're good. It is a 2" dial and appropriate hole. And you're also right that most of the 1/8" NPT gauges that I found online were 1.5" dials (which I would have been fine with).