12v vs 120v air compressor, which is better?
- Thread starter LeakySeals
- Start date
isnt that 150w outlet. if so it wont run a compressor.
so.. 12v... although many of those wont run from the 12v outlet without popping a fuse.
I'd vote for a VIAIR with battery clips.
they have went up in price like everything else.
The reviews on the husky make me think its worse than the 9.99 HF inflator.
so.. 12v... although many of those wont run from the 12v outlet without popping a fuse.
I'd vote for a VIAIR with battery clips.
they have went up in price like everything else.
The reviews on the husky make me think its worse than the 9.99 HF inflator.
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Not going to recommend or criticize it...because I haven't used it, but I saw WM has a dual power compressor where you can use 12 volts or 120 volts. I think it's Hyper Tough branded and it has a digital readout. I saw it has a 2 year warranty, but if, by chance, happen to get it, save your receipt. This is one of those items where you just might need it.
12V
JHZR2
Staff member
someone gave me the husky 120v inflator as a gift. It’s not fast but it’s surprisingly good. Good enough that I bought a 12v for a roadside emergency kit. It’s piston and operation is probably identical, but it doesn’t seem to work as well. Now my roadside kit has a Vlair 88p.
Get the Milwaukee M12 Compressor, as a bonus you can get the M12 flashlight. Keep them both in your car, win win
I have the Viair 00073 70P in my truck, hardly ever use it but it works great. I think it requires a 12v outlet with a decent amount of current, been fine on my Ford vehicles with 20a fuses, but it blew the fuses on a friends Toyota that had a 5a fuse for the 12v power (***?)
I have the Viair 00073 70P in my truck, hardly ever use it but it works great. I think it requires a 12v outlet with a decent amount of current, been fine on my Ford vehicles with 20a fuses, but it blew the fuses on a friends Toyota that had a 5a fuse for the 12v power (***?)
I had that small husky unit and it worked pretty good for passenger vehicles. Later I invested in a Smittybilt 2.54 cfm compressor and carry around a car battery. It’s portable, a little heavy but the portability is great and not being power cord limited was a hassle.
Another vote for the Milwaukee M12. Runs on a Milwaukee battery. Best if you already have some Milwaukee M12 tools, so you already have a M12 battery charger, and maybe some spare batteries. I keep mine with me in the car on long trips. I added a quick release air chuck. Set the pressure you want, connect it to the tire, turn it on. It stops pumping when the set tire pressure is reached.
JHZR2
Staff member
Li-ion batteries don’t do well in the heat. No way would I keep that in my vehicle long term.
Never had a problem. I've got some 18650's salvaged from old laptops that have been in cars 24/7 for at least 6 years, they are still kicking
I also have a NOCO Jump pack, no problems with that either
JHZR2
Staff member
Never had a problem doesn’t mean much. It’s well established that heat degrades them as well as time and cycling.
And exposed to high enough temperatures they have major safety issues.
I have some ancient 18650s too.
Rated at 1500 mAH originally, they now kick out, after delivering about 400 mah, and when powering higher drain devices, their voltage sags dramatically.
Meaning no max flashlight brightness, or a big bass thump will cause BT speaker to shut off, but at low light settings or Volume levels, they perform 'just fine', for a little while anyway.
They are kind of worthless, but can described as 'still kicking', and if one had no way to measure capacity, or judge their performance, one could even say they are 'still going strong'.
But they are not.
They also self discharge much faster than newer healthier cells, and take forever to recharge back to 4.19v, as they cannot accept much amperage even when depleted to 3.26v.
my healthy 18650s can accept well over 10 amps when depleted and hooked to a high amp potential, adjuatable Voltage charging source set to feed 4.2v per cell. I manually limit this to 2 amps or less by decreasing voltage Delta, but will soon have a charging source with 'dial a max' amperage.
The older cells draw about 0.4 amps max, and are self limiting.
Rated at 1500 mAH originally, they now kick out, after delivering about 400 mah, and when powering higher drain devices, their voltage sags dramatically.
Meaning no max flashlight brightness, or a big bass thump will cause BT speaker to shut off, but at low light settings or Volume levels, they perform 'just fine', for a little while anyway.
They are kind of worthless, but can described as 'still kicking', and if one had no way to measure capacity, or judge their performance, one could even say they are 'still going strong'.
But they are not.
They also self discharge much faster than newer healthier cells, and take forever to recharge back to 4.19v, as they cannot accept much amperage even when depleted to 3.26v.
my healthy 18650s can accept well over 10 amps when depleted and hooked to a high amp potential, adjuatable Voltage charging source set to feed 4.2v per cell. I manually limit this to 2 amps or less by decreasing voltage Delta, but will soon have a charging source with 'dial a max' amperage.
The older cells draw about 0.4 amps max, and are self limiting.
I've had 2 cheapo compressors that plug into the 12v outlet go bad. One lasted roughly 3 years before seizing the other more or less failed within the warranty. The 120v is probably for a home outlet. Check but most automotive outlets are rated in watts no voltage.
For me it means everything, but I get where your coming from
My cars probably just don't get that hot, recently new, good tint, mostly garage kept etc
I refuse to keep them in the car during the hot season.. oct-apr is ok here..
in texas not so much.
For me it means sample size of 1 is nothing.
its clear storing them in high heat is a relatively risky idea.
You could store your 5 gallon gas cans next to the furnace and never have a problem
doesnt make it a good idea.
Does that mean I wont leave it in my car over a weekend.. no.
but permanently.. not a chance.
Based on what? The data sheet for a Panasonic 18650 says it can be discharged at up to 60c, which is 140 degrees. If they thought that was risky in any way, it wouldn't be on there
Yes high heat degrades batteries, not it doesn't mean they are dangerous
Now, if you have some POS chinese junk battery, then sure. But then those are dangerous at any temperature.
Hell, my bike has a lithium starter battery
