JHZR2
Staff member
Agree but would like to get the car on the road while finding a proper replacement. Does the copper ring imply it was brazed on?
Repairing a Banjo Bolt
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
That I cant say as I never had one come apart, when working with barbed fittings I cut the hose off and replace it, those barbed fittings do not want to come apart. I also do not try to remove hose from old or newer aluminum/plastic heater cores, just get new hose and cut them off, they don't tolerate much pulling, twisting or yanking on them before causing a leak.
It is either a machine brazed ring or a press fit copper ring.
I don't see how you can plug or try to repair that with brazing without removing the banjo fitting and the other lines, you can splice the nylon.
Without actually looking at it depending on how thick the material is you may able to tap the fitting and thread the hose end or clean it all up well and braze it in.
It is either a machine brazed ring or a press fit copper ring.
I don't see how you can plug or try to repair that with brazing without removing the banjo fitting and the other lines, you can splice the nylon.
Without actually looking at it depending on how thick the material is you may able to tap the fitting and thread the hose end or clean it all up well and braze it in.
JHZR2
Staff member
Problem is I have no capability whatsoever to braze things. I have a soldering gun and that’s about it.
The OD of the old barbed tube is a bit over 8mm. I have to wonder if I can tap something around 10mm in there. It would only have one thread or so though.
Wonder if I can solder something in there with electrical solder.
Electrical solder wont do it, silver solder like this will probably work okay.
https://www.muggyweld.com/product/s...MIqua1i6-e9gIVu_DjBx316wMEEAQYASABEgIF__D_BwE
You may be able to tap it NPT and use a threaded fitting. Prowl HD for something.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/LTWFITT...Adapter-Fitting-5-Pack-HFLF39185405/313323912
https://www.muggyweld.com/product/s...MIqua1i6-e9gIVu_DjBx316wMEEAQYASABEgIF__D_BwE
You may be able to tap it NPT and use a threaded fitting. Prowl HD for something.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/LTWFITT...Adapter-Fitting-5-Pack-HFLF39185405/313323912
JHZR2
Staff member
Was thinking along those lines. 1/8 npt or an M10 bolt might work. I don’t know if there’s enough thickness for npt to work. But that plus solder??!?
JHZR2
Staff member
@Trav dumb question - why wouldn’t electrical solder work? I’m not really using it for any mechanical duty. Notionally if I tap a thread or thread and a fraction into the fitting, and then the tapered npt engages, all the solder is doing is helping to fill the gap, sort of like Teflon tape.
It just needs to suck just enough in to close the gap, then harden.
Would silver plumbing solder be an option? I’m trying to get my car to at least be drivable and maneuverable in the driveway/garage, without pumping a liter of diesel or more all over.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-S...z-Silver-Solder-Wire-506912/202515582#overlay
I know it’s not nearly the percentage silver as what you recommended…
It just needs to suck just enough in to close the gap, then harden.
Would silver plumbing solder be an option? I’m trying to get my car to at least be drivable and maneuverable in the driveway/garage, without pumping a liter of diesel or more all over.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-S...z-Silver-Solder-Wire-506912/202515582#overlay
I know it’s not nearly the percentage silver as what you recommended…
I honestly don't know. I may be tempted to try something like this. Clean it spotlessly and wipe it with IPA, put some paste on the fitting and some in the banjo then force them together than cover the top where it meets with a small ring of the paste and heat it till it melts.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...=Shopping-Google-Organic_Feed-Product-1710628
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...=Shopping-Google-Organic_Feed-Product-1710628
JHZR2
Staff member
Interesting stuff. Too bad it’s online only. Wonder if something equivalent is available locally.
Harbor freight came through kind of. They had a metric tap and die set for $17.99 that includes M10 and 1/8 NPT taps and dies.
The M10 I think might work, so I may be able to thread the original nipple and tap threads into the banjo bolt. But I am not sure if there will be enough thread engagement…
I can get brass pipe nipples in 1/8 NPT from Home Depot. The pilot hole isn’t that much different for the various M10 threads as NPT (8.8 for M10x1.25 vs 8.74 for 1/8 NPT). So I wonder if I’m better off with the npt thread and maybe a bit of dope to get this marginally functional. Then add silver solder or JB Kwik or whatever to help keep it in place.
Thoughts? Am I better off with NPT.
This solder is used instead of brazing for air conditioning work:
https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/Alloys/Soldering/Lead-Free-Solders/stay-brite-8.aspx
You can probably get it locally from an HVAC supply.
JHZR2
Staff member
Well, the HF tap and die set was a dud. It wouldn’t cut threads in a 1/8” brass nipple. Turned out to be cut wrong or something.
I bought Irwin Hansen taps and dies and they cut the brass perfectly. And tapped the banjo bolt.
It fits reasonably well. Not necessarily enough threads to seal up.
It stays a bit damp… not entirely sure if it’s the banjo bolt copper washers (need to replace or anneal) or the actual threaded joint. Once I have things figured out somewhat I’ll look into silver solder or something (Fuel and oil resistant RTV?). I’ll need to ensure that the return hose doesn’t slip off. I don’t think it will, the fuel return is maybe 12 psi and 1LPM to the tank which is atmospheric. I’m going to get a new OE return hose anyway and it will have some friction. Maybe I’ll cut some barbs into the brass…
It works. Even if a bit damp. Just need to figure what is the cause.
I bought Irwin Hansen taps and dies and they cut the brass perfectly. And tapped the banjo bolt.
It fits reasonably well. Not necessarily enough threads to seal up.
It stays a bit damp… not entirely sure if it’s the banjo bolt copper washers (need to replace or anneal) or the actual threaded joint. Once I have things figured out somewhat I’ll look into silver solder or something (Fuel and oil resistant RTV?). I’ll need to ensure that the return hose doesn’t slip off. I don’t think it will, the fuel return is maybe 12 psi and 1LPM to the tank which is atmospheric. I’m going to get a new OE return hose anyway and it will have some friction. Maybe I’ll cut some barbs into the brass…
It works. Even if a bit damp. Just need to figure what is the cause.
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Do you think it might be wise to support the nipple and/or hose to avoid undo stress on the few threads holding it together? Maybe a cable tie placed to support it, but not add additional stress?
Rectorseal Tru Blue and Gasoila (my preference) are good for fuel. I wonder if a hardening Permatex type thread locker would seal and lock it in?
Kudos for coming up with an emergency solution. Many of us have experienced late night/weekend challenges like this. It's exhausting on all fronts.
Rectorseal Tru Blue and Gasoila (my preference) are good for fuel. I wonder if a hardening Permatex type thread locker would seal and lock it in?
Kudos for coming up with an emergency solution. Many of us have experienced late night/weekend challenges like this. It's exhausting on all fronts.
