I have a 94 F 150 with the 4.9 liter engine, and the original water pump needs replacing. Going to spray bolts with PB Blaster, which I have on hand. Would it be better to try and break the bolts loose with an air ratchet, or a hand ratchet wrench? Any advice would be appreciated.
Removing water pump bolts
- Thread starter Electromotive
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Thank you for the advice. I will follow it.
NO AIR TOOLS! If they are the slightest bit frozen, you will break them off for sure. I'm not 100% sure about the 4.9 liter. But I know for a fact the 5.0 V-8 is famous for having a couple of long 4" bolts that go through the timing cover, that can and will break very easily. Use a lot of care when trying to remove them. Once you break them loose, work them back and forth BY HAND, little by little until you get them out.
Then wire brush all of the threads, and liberally apply a good grade of anti seize to the full length of the threads before you reinstall them. I've replaced my water pump twice. (Once because it was leaking, and again because I had a small coolant leak by the timing cover). So rather than reinstall an old pump, I purchased a new one instead. It wasn't that much money for a new OEM water pump, so it made no sense to put the old one back in.
Again, I'm not sure if the 4.9 is set up the same way. But if it is you'll want to be extra careful. Go slow, take your time, and don't force anything.
Then wire brush all of the threads, and liberally apply a good grade of anti seize to the full length of the threads before you reinstall them. I've replaced my water pump twice. (Once because it was leaking, and again because I had a small coolant leak by the timing cover). So rather than reinstall an old pump, I purchased a new one instead. It wasn't that much money for a new OEM water pump, so it made no sense to put the old one back in.
Again, I'm not sure if the 4.9 is set up the same way. But if it is you'll want to be extra careful. Go slow, take your time, and don't force anything.
I have fairly recently changed the original water pump on my 87, 4.9 engine. Penetrant won't reach the bolt threads. I didn't have any problems removing mine by hand. After removing the fan clutch (with spanner wrench) and also removed the pulley, I struck the bolt heads with a hammer and removed them. Pay attention to the bolts, I recall two which went into the cooling passage, you need to apply thread sealer to those threads. I used permatex #2. The others, I applied some oil to the threads. The bolts are not very long and recall being the same length and suggest cleaning them up on a wire wheel. Don't be surprised if the heater hose pipe on the new pump is not bent correctly and contacts a nearby bracket. I have noticed every new pump I have seen being misformed. You can gently bend it slightly so that the hose can be installed (YOU DON'T NEED MUCH) to clear a bracket watching that you do not twist the area which is pressed in going into the pump casting, it will then leak. It is an easy job and should take about an hour to do once the coolant has drained.
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When applying left hand torque to bolts like these, I prefer to use a 1/2 inch ratchet wrench rather than a 3/8 inch ratchet wrench. It's easier to apply the torque smoothly without getting stressed out about it. Yes, it's going to take a lot of torque to get those out, mostly because Ford used a factory applied thread sealant.
If you use an impact, it better be a tiny one. I've used one of the HF 3/8" palm drive air impacts to do these-
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-e...que-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html
At only 75 ft lbs., it really doesn't have the power to be snapping bolts off, and the hammering action will usually gently loosen stuck bolts.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-e...que-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html
At only 75 ft lbs., it really doesn't have the power to be snapping bolts off, and the hammering action will usually gently loosen stuck bolts.
Loosen up by hand.
A rubber mallet to tap on the cheater bar works well. I used to use a hammer but find that the rubber mallet works much better...
Originally Posted by billt460
NO AIR TOOLS! If they are the slightest bit frozen, you will break them off for sure. I'm not 100% sure about the 4.9 liter. But I know for a fact the 5.0 V-8 is famous for having a couple of long 4" bolts that go through the timing cover, that can and will break very easily. Use a lot of care when trying to remove them. Once you break them loose, work them back and forth BY HAND, little by little until you get them out.
Then wire brush all of the threads, and liberally apply a good grade of anti seize to the full length of the threads before you reinstall them. I've replaced my water pump twice. (Once because it was leaking, and again because I had a small coolant leak by the timing cover). So rather than reinstall an old pump, I purchased a new one instead. It wasn't that much money for a new OEM water pump, so it made no sense to put the old one back in.
Again, I'm not sure if the 4.9 is set up the same way. But if it is you'll want to be extra careful. Go slow, take your time, and don't force anything.
it's nothing like the v8. It uses a few bolts that just hold the pump directly to the block.
NO AIR TOOLS! If they are the slightest bit frozen, you will break them off for sure. I'm not 100% sure about the 4.9 liter. But I know for a fact the 5.0 V-8 is famous for having a couple of long 4" bolts that go through the timing cover, that can and will break very easily. Use a lot of care when trying to remove them. Once you break them loose, work them back and forth BY HAND, little by little until you get them out.
Then wire brush all of the threads, and liberally apply a good grade of anti seize to the full length of the threads before you reinstall them. I've replaced my water pump twice. (Once because it was leaking, and again because I had a small coolant leak by the timing cover). So rather than reinstall an old pump, I purchased a new one instead. It wasn't that much money for a new OEM water pump, so it made no sense to put the old one back in.
Again, I'm not sure if the 4.9 is set up the same way. But if it is you'll want to be extra careful. Go slow, take your time, and don't force anything.
it's nothing like the v8. It uses a few bolts that just hold the pump directly to the block.
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