This is on the 2.3l engine. The plastic part is fiber-reinforced, so it is very rigid. I’ve been unable to remove the old one so far and am looking for tips on a good way to do it. Attached is a picture of the new part. The valve cover has protrusions that pop into the two slots. My best idea is to try to remove it after the engine is hot, and put small flat screwdrivers into each slot to pull the plastic outward. Is there a better idea or a special tool for this?
Removing 2010 Ranger valve cover plug
- Thread starter JAG
- Start date
Is that a PCV line fitting?
Your plan sounds good though I have ZERO experience with that engine.
The 2.3 and the other 4 (a 2.4?) is what they call a "Lima engine" from Lima, Ohio
Maybe join Rangerforums.com, they're darn good people.
Your plan sounds good though I have ZERO experience with that engine.
The 2.3 and the other 4 (a 2.4?) is what they call a "Lima engine" from Lima, Ohio
Maybe join Rangerforums.com, they're darn good people.
True about needing dexterity for this. The closest thing to your approach is unbolting the plastic valve cover, which would be a lot of work. I don’t absolutely need to replace the part, so if I can’t get it off, it’s not a big deal. The only thing that might be wrong with it is a shrunken/hardened o-ring that might not have a perfect seal. The reason for messing with these parts and others are that the RPMs are not dropping quickly as they should when I let off the gas
I solved the problem by using a hammer to lightly tap a small flat screwdriver against the plastic at the slots.
I’ve replaced the IAC and throttle body gasket in attempt to fix the RPM issue. Didn’t help. Just replaced the plug that is the subject of this thread, but I doubt those were the issue. A new throttle position sensor will be here this week. If that doesn’t fix the issue, I will get a new throttle body. The entire thing is plastic and when I cleaned the massive amount of gunk from it, that may have opened up some gouges in the plastic that were sealed by the gunk. Before cleaning it, the problem was difficulty with starting and engine would almost stall when letting go of the throttle. I replaced that problem with the opposite problem! Haha. I did follow the recommended procedure following the throttle body cleaning.
I’ve replaced the IAC and throttle body gasket in attempt to fix the RPM issue. Didn’t help. Just replaced the plug that is the subject of this thread, but I doubt those were the issue. A new throttle position sensor will be here this week. If that doesn’t fix the issue, I will get a new throttle body. The entire thing is plastic and when I cleaned the massive amount of gunk from it, that may have opened up some gouges in the plastic that were sealed by the gunk. Before cleaning it, the problem was difficulty with starting and engine would almost stall when letting go of the throttle. I replaced that problem with the opposite problem! Haha. I did follow the recommended procedure following the throttle body cleaning.
I did follow the throttle re-learning procedure. No check engine lights have occurred. I have no device to read the fuel trims. I too suspect that unmetered air might be getting into the intake. That’s why I replaced the throttle body gasket, but it could be coming from a tear in the intake hose. The hose is soundly connected to the throttle body. Will be putting in a new PCV valve in a few weeks.
Thanks! Great idea I’ve never heard of. Will try it.
Stop throwing parts at it and buy a scanner that can read live data. Ultimately it'll save you ten times over.
Need not be expensive and you could even do any of the apps with a dongle. Or Forscan.
Seriously, stop trying to replace parts and hoping. Hope springs eternal, but still.....
I had a similar thought that the cable was unable to lengthen enough for the TB to fully close. I checked it and it had some slack with the TB closed.
BTW, I ordered an Innova 5610 scanner today. Decided to go quite high-end.
