Redline water wetter....anyone seen/tried this?

There was a group of SHO modifiers that tested fairly extensively, they claimed it slightly lowered temps.
they had the standard battery of tests done and discussed with 3rd third party - hardly gospel.

It may indeed have many more miscibility, or other issues than the label suggests (certainly wouldnt be the first time)

Curious to see what may be new.
 
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Used it for racing like others said. You’d think that it would already be in coolant if it helped at all.
 
Ran it in a SBC on a 1/2 mile paved track with straight water back in Pa. It reduced gauge temp 15-20 deg IIRC. No other changes. Don't remember the thermostat setup.

Someone online once posited that the tiny bubbles it eliminates on surfaces actually are pulling heat away from the engine. No clue about that. It may not make much difference in a street application unless the thermostat is fully open and the cooling capacity is exceeded, towing uphill in the summer, etc.
 
Ran it in a SBC on a 1/2 mile paved track with straight water back in Pa. It reduced gauge temp 15-20 deg IIRC. No other changes. Don't remember the thermostat setup.

Someone online once posited that the tiny bubbles it eliminates on surfaces actually are pulling heat away from the engine. No clue about that. It may not make much difference in a street application unless the thermostat is fully open and the cooling capacity is exceeded, towing uphill in the summer, etc.
You should study some physics and thermodynamics, it might help your understanding in other areas as well.
 
I've used it years ago in Maserati Biturbos and it did help lower the gauge temperatures noticeably. It helps improve heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator.

If you used it with an increased water content, and that's how it's intended to be used,
it's that increased water content what helped with cooling. Water is a superior 'coolant'.

The name 'water wetter' is kind of fraud. You can't 'wetten' water. There's even no need
to. On a mainly street driven car (which seems to be the case for the OP) you want both
the cooling, anti-freeze and anti-corrosion properties. I'd suggest using like 60 % water
and 40 % G13 (since it's a VW). This will slightly improve cooling and provide sufficient
anti-freeze for most southern states. We had a similar discussion quite recently. The Golf
manual a minimum of 40 % G13 should be used.
.
 

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I’ve used it extensively in many classic cars for at least 15-20 years. In my own cars and customer cars as well. Especially useful on a race track where antifreeze is banned.

WaterWatter will consistently reduce coolant temperatures by 10-15 degrees when used with 100% distilled water. That’s a reduction beyond just using distilled water alone.

WaterWetter will only reduce coolant temperatures by 3-5 degrees when used with a 50/50 antifreeze mix.

These numbers are essentially consistent with WaterWetter’s own published data.




Z
 
I’ve used it extensively in many classic cars for at least 15-20 years. In my own cars and customer cars as well. Especially useful on a race track where antifreeze is banned.

WaterWatter will consistently reduce coolant temperatures by 10-15 degrees when used with 100% distilled water. That’s a reduction beyond just using distilled water alone.

WaterWetter will only reduce coolant temperatures by 3-5 degrees when used with a 50/50 antifreeze mix.

These numbers are essentially consistent with WaterWetter’s own published data.
Only possible in an engine with no thermostat or one that is thermally out of control.
 
I ran it in my LLY Duramax. I towed a lot with it and the LLY being notorious for running hot needed some help. I did see improvements in temp control before and after the fan would engage. It was one piece of a puzzle for this truck. There were several other mods that helped it also but in the end it was still a turd.
 
It doesn't but what does that have anything to do with it? Most people that are using it are more concerned about temperatures after the thermostat is open. Just because once it's open, doesn't mean the temperature doesn't stop rising.
Yes that’s what I said but zray1 said no. It would have to be fully open for this to occur.
 
Another big flaw in this thinking is that if heat transfer is improved, coolant temperature goes up not down.

Have you forgotten the coolant is then pumped
Thru a device called a “radiator”.

If the radiator / fan assembly is designed with sufficient capacity then the additional heat absorbed by the coolant will be dissipated appropriately.

Z
 
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