Redline SL-1 in 2 consecutive tanks prior to engine oil change?

[cammyfive79]

Backstory: purchased a 2013 Acura TL SH-AWD approximately 2 months ago with at the time 31k original miles - original owners are now senior citizens that rarely drove the car and it sat in the garage for weeks/months at a time. I did a crazy overkill on all maintenance that might have been neglected based on age - tbelt & tensioner, water pump, thermostat, oil seals, all fluids including transmission twice. During that initial maintenance, and thanks to reading this forum, I learned about HPL and am currently running M1 5W30 with 1qt of HPL Engine Cleaner 30. I've put about 1200 miles on the car since and plan to do an OCI in about 800 more miles and run this regiment again before doing another OCI 2000 miles after that and running HPL 5W30 oil itself for 4-5k mile intervals. This J37 V6 has a history of oil consumption with longer OCIs or poor quality oils so I'm doing everything in my power to avoid that as I absolutely love this cream puff of a car.

So I have about 2 full tanks of gas before the next OCI and know I wanted to run a fuel system cleaner of some sort in the last tank prior to the OCI but also thought about running a bottle of Redline SL-1 in 2 consecutive back to bank tanks prior to that OCI. I found a deal on Amazon to order a 2 pack of the Redline SL-1 so that what started me thinking about this. Again, I realize this is probably level 10000 overkill but that's just in my nature. The car runs great as I'm fairly certain it wasn't thrashed by the original owner and the only "neglect" it suffered was sitting dormant and only having the oil changed 3 times in 30k miles per the Maintenance Minder.

As I side note, I found a local gas station/general store in a rural area that sells 93 octane ethanol free gas. The owner is a good person and made the comment that he specifically carries it for the rural customers as well as some folks that live out here with super cars. I don't believe it is "Tier 1" but I wonder if the E0 benefits outweigh the additional additives/detergents from Tier 1 gas since I plan to run SL-1 at least once on the tank prior to an OCI.

Like many of you I assume, doing all of this is more of a "hobby" for me and for fun that trying to save a few pennies here or there.

 

[TiGeo]

Sure run the fuel additive. PEA based is key. I run a can of Liquimoly DI Jectron every oil change. The e free fuel is unnecessary and I'd take Top Tier E10 any day over it. Keep in mind that e is good for knock resistance in a performance vehicle like you have.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Keep in mind that e is good for knock resistance in a performance vehicle like you have.

How does E10 have any knock resistance advantage over E0 when they’re both 87 octane?

 

[fitrucker]

How does E10 have any knock resistance advantage over E0 when they’re both 87 octane?

In general ethanol cools combustion and lowers octane requirement 1 point for every 5 percent of ethanol. Octane requirements are a lot higher. A 10.5 compression engine is more like 100 octane but knock control and engine designs can make it run on 87.

 

[Davejam]

There is a maintenance dose, I would not run 2 full bottles in a row.
Full bottle is 15oz and treats up to 20 gallons. That's a fairly hefty dose of PEA.
I wouldn't use that whole bottle on a tank that's less than 15gal for instance.
I'd stick to 1oz/gal max. And if you wanted to do something intermediate for 2 consecutive tanks 1/2oz / gal would be more reasonable.

Maint Dose from White Paper:
Initially use one bottle to a fuel tank and fill with fuel to achieve rapid cleanup. The treatment can be reduced on subsequent fill ups to 1/3-1/6 oz per gallon (one bottle to 50-100 gallons) to provide continual injector and valve cleanliness.

 

[TiGeo]

How does E10 have any knock resistance advantage over E0 when they’re both 87 octane?

Yes, you are right/not sure how to put what I want to say I suppose. To get 87 E10 you are using a lower octane base gasoline and adding E to it (~100 octane) to blend up to a final rating of 87. It's my understanding that the E is allowing cooler combustion which helps with overall knock resistance vs. a 0 E fuel. You will get a couple %s lower mpgs on the E10 based on the volumetric math but you pay more for the 0 E fuel so I can't see how the math makes it worth it. I know my turbo car loves a few gallons of E85 beyond the base 93 E10 and nearly zeros out my knock but my final blend is likely mid-90s octane rating and that's why but that cooler burn has to have some impact.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Yes, you are right/not sure how to put what I want to say I suppose. To get 87 E10 you are using a lower octane base gasoline and adding E to it (~100 octane) to blend up to a final rating of 87. It's my understanding that the E is allowing cooler combustion which helps with overall knock resistance vs. a 0 E fuel. You will get a couple %s lower mpgs on the E10 based on the volumetric math but you pay more for the 0 E fuel so I can't see how the math makes it worth it. I know my turbo car loves a few gallons of E85 beyond the base 93 E10 and nearly zeros out my knock but my final blend is likely mid-90s octane rating and that's why but that cooler burn has to have some impact.

I agree that if you were to add “pure” E85 to 87 octane, yes, no one will argue that there will be increased knock resistance. But when ethanol is blended into a final product and E10 or E0 are both 87 octane, there is NO realistic difference if both MON and RON are the same.

Pure ethanol has an octane of about 116, so yes, when added separately to a lower octane not only will you get the cooling effect of the latent heat of vaporization, but also the increased octane. But the pump octane # is all that matters, and if the octane number is identical, there’s no difference.