Redline SL-1 fuel additive questions.
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Originally Posted By: mauric3
There's no harm in using the whole bottle of redline s1 in one tank?
I just realized that amsoil PI is 12oz bottle and redline is 15oz.. so 3oz shouldn't make a big deal out of it i guess?
I might just stick to one bottle of redline s1 every 5k km instead of doing the maintenance dosage?
I buy RL cleaner by the case and have used full bottles in a variety of vehicles over the years w/o issue. Nothing wrong with using the maint dose all the time. However my recommendation would be to start off a new vehicle on the maint dose, or an old vehicle on it after you've run a full bottle through it. Then if you like add a full bottle to it once a year, and continue with the maint dose if you have the patience to add it to each tankful of gas. Opinions vary, one thing for use is a full bottle is completely harmless.
There's no harm in using the whole bottle of redline s1 in one tank?
I just realized that amsoil PI is 12oz bottle and redline is 15oz.. so 3oz shouldn't make a big deal out of it i guess?
I might just stick to one bottle of redline s1 every 5k km instead of doing the maintenance dosage?
I buy RL cleaner by the case and have used full bottles in a variety of vehicles over the years w/o issue. Nothing wrong with using the maint dose all the time. However my recommendation would be to start off a new vehicle on the maint dose, or an old vehicle on it after you've run a full bottle through it. Then if you like add a full bottle to it once a year, and continue with the maint dose if you have the patience to add it to each tankful of gas. Opinions vary, one thing for use is a full bottle is completely harmless.
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
I going to side with Boomer on this one.
I know, I know, I know a whole bottle shouldn't cause issues...
But...
I gave a bottle to my friend. Even though I told him to split up the bottle among his cars, he's the type that thinks if some is good, more is better.
He dumped the whole bottle in a '00 Ranger of higher mileage. Shortly after his engine wouldn't stay running. After changing just about everything it turned out not to be the injectors, but in the process of chasing the problem he dropped the tank and cleaned out the fuel lines+rail. In the rail and lines was a bunch of "silt" and crud.
So even though the problem wasn't injector related, I think doing a shock dose on an older vehicle of unknown history is asking for trouble. Never know what you're going to "clean".
Completely anecdotal, but now I don't consider a whole bottle->tank to be a good idea.
This similar to what happened to my old Merc 300E, I put the whole bottle and few hundred kms later, the engine will not idle. The workshop finally clean all the fuel rail from all the crud, before it start to idle normally again.
I going to side with Boomer on this one.
I know, I know, I know a whole bottle shouldn't cause issues...
But...
I gave a bottle to my friend. Even though I told him to split up the bottle among his cars, he's the type that thinks if some is good, more is better.
He dumped the whole bottle in a '00 Ranger of higher mileage. Shortly after his engine wouldn't stay running. After changing just about everything it turned out not to be the injectors, but in the process of chasing the problem he dropped the tank and cleaned out the fuel lines+rail. In the rail and lines was a bunch of "silt" and crud.
So even though the problem wasn't injector related, I think doing a shock dose on an older vehicle of unknown history is asking for trouble. Never know what you're going to "clean".
Completely anecdotal, but now I don't consider a whole bottle->tank to be a good idea.
This similar to what happened to my old Merc 300E, I put the whole bottle and few hundred kms later, the engine will not idle. The workshop finally clean all the fuel rail from all the crud, before it start to idle normally again.
Make it "simple stupid" and just do one full bottle at every oil change...
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
I going to side with Boomer on this one.
I know, I know, I know a whole bottle shouldn't cause issues...
But...
I gave a bottle to my friend. Even though I told him to split up the bottle among his cars, he's the type that thinks if some is good, more is better.
He dumped the whole bottle in a '00 Ranger of higher mileage. Shortly after his engine wouldn't stay running. After changing just about everything it turned out not to be the injectors, but in the process of chasing the problem he dropped the tank and cleaned out the fuel lines+rail. In the rail and lines was a bunch of "silt" and crud.
So even though the problem wasn't injector related, I think doing a shock dose on an older vehicle of unknown history is asking for trouble. Never know what you're going to "clean".
Completely anecdotal, but now I don't consider a whole bottle->tank to be a good idea.
This similar to what happened to my old Merc 300E, I put the whole bottle and few hundred kms later, the engine will not idle. The workshop finally clean all the fuel rail from all the crud, before it start to idle normally again.
These things also happened during the original Chevron field test of Techron.
Old Mercedes makes sense.
2000 Ranger makes sense.
Boomer's 30,000 mile case is unusual.
Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
I going to side with Boomer on this one.
I know, I know, I know a whole bottle shouldn't cause issues...
But...
I gave a bottle to my friend. Even though I told him to split up the bottle among his cars, he's the type that thinks if some is good, more is better.
He dumped the whole bottle in a '00 Ranger of higher mileage. Shortly after his engine wouldn't stay running. After changing just about everything it turned out not to be the injectors, but in the process of chasing the problem he dropped the tank and cleaned out the fuel lines+rail. In the rail and lines was a bunch of "silt" and crud.
So even though the problem wasn't injector related, I think doing a shock dose on an older vehicle of unknown history is asking for trouble. Never know what you're going to "clean".
Completely anecdotal, but now I don't consider a whole bottle->tank to be a good idea.
This similar to what happened to my old Merc 300E, I put the whole bottle and few hundred kms later, the engine will not idle. The workshop finally clean all the fuel rail from all the crud, before it start to idle normally again.
These things also happened during the original Chevron field test of Techron.
Old Mercedes makes sense.
2000 Ranger makes sense.
Boomer's 30,000 mile case is unusual.
i use Redline crankcase oil additive. i think its good.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Boomer
Not so. I used an entire bottle as directed on a Chevy truck and had massive injector problems immediately afterwards (within 50 miles). Several were so badly clogged with a soluble-in-acetone-only granular crud that they had to be replaced. Others were able to be cleaned. I never understood where the stuff originated but I would never add a whole bottle again . Truck at the time had about 30,000 mile on it.
Sounds like a one in a million shot, the injectors were probably on their way out before the addition of the product. Bad luck and coincidence meeting head on. JMO BTW I'm not flaming you, but these things can and do happen.
No I don't agree, if you put solvents into a dirty fuel tank it will result in crud blocking the fuel filter. Unfortuntely there are two possible complications of a blocked filter that can occur before the engine stops, firstly the filter element is already split for some reason and the second one is that the fuel pump is too powerful in relation to the strength of the filter element, so it simply pulls dirt through the element or past the seals before the engine quits.
I had that happen when I cleaned a fuel tank for a yacht once, although some muppet assistant had fitted the wrong size primary element in the Racor, so the primary filter did nothing, the small secondary blocked solid but the Yanmar 2GM used the same lift pump as a bigger 4GM and also had a fast bleed electric pump fitted. The crud trashed the injection pump and blew out the injector tips without warning. That was the last time I tried cleaning out a tank the fast way.
If you have got gummed injectors, don't put solvents in the tank unless you feel lucky and have spare filters ready (They don't work too well anyway). Use a top quality direct feed solvent type additive that you can pour into the fuel filter housing or feed into the fuel line.
Originally Posted By: Boomer
Not so. I used an entire bottle as directed on a Chevy truck and had massive injector problems immediately afterwards (within 50 miles). Several were so badly clogged with a soluble-in-acetone-only granular crud that they had to be replaced. Others were able to be cleaned. I never understood where the stuff originated but I would never add a whole bottle again . Truck at the time had about 30,000 mile on it.
Sounds like a one in a million shot, the injectors were probably on their way out before the addition of the product. Bad luck and coincidence meeting head on. JMO BTW I'm not flaming you, but these things can and do happen.
No I don't agree, if you put solvents into a dirty fuel tank it will result in crud blocking the fuel filter. Unfortuntely there are two possible complications of a blocked filter that can occur before the engine stops, firstly the filter element is already split for some reason and the second one is that the fuel pump is too powerful in relation to the strength of the filter element, so it simply pulls dirt through the element or past the seals before the engine quits.
I had that happen when I cleaned a fuel tank for a yacht once, although some muppet assistant had fitted the wrong size primary element in the Racor, so the primary filter did nothing, the small secondary blocked solid but the Yanmar 2GM used the same lift pump as a bigger 4GM and also had a fast bleed electric pump fitted. The crud trashed the injection pump and blew out the injector tips without warning. That was the last time I tried cleaning out a tank the fast way.
If you have got gummed injectors, don't put solvents in the tank unless you feel lucky and have spare filters ready (They don't work too well anyway). Use a top quality direct feed solvent type additive that you can pour into the fuel filter housing or feed into the fuel line.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Boomer
Not so. I used an entire bottle as directed on a Chevy truck and had massive injector problems immediately afterwards (within 50 miles). Several were so badly clogged with a soluble-in-acetone-only granular crud that they had to be replaced. Others were able to be cleaned. I never understood where the stuff originated but I would never add a whole bottle again . Truck at the time had about 30,000 mile on it.
Sounds like a one in a million shot, the injectors were probably on their way out before the addition of the product. Bad luck and coincidence meeting head on. JMO BTW I'm not flaming you, but these things can and do happen.
No I don't agree, if you put solvents into a dirty fuel tank it will result in crud blocking the fuel filter. Unfortuntely there are two possible complications of a blocked filter that can occur before the engine stops, firstly the filter element is already split for some reason and the second one is that the fuel pump is too powerful in relation to the strength of the filter element, so it simply pulls dirt through the element or past the seals before the engine quits.
I had that happen when I cleaned a fuel tank for a yacht once, although some muppet assistant had fitted the wrong size primary element in the Racor, so the primary filter did nothing, the small secondary blocked solid but the Yanmar 2GM used the same lift pump as a bigger 4GM and also had a fast bleed electric pump fitted. The crud trashed the injection pump and blew out the injector tips without warning. That was the last time I tried cleaning out a tank the fast way.
If you have got gummed injectors, don't put solvents in the tank unless you feel lucky and have spare filters ready (They don't work too well anyway). Use a top quality direct feed solvent type additive that you can pour into the fuel filter housing or feed into the fuel line.
If you have a fuel tank that dirty you have problems with or without a fuel system cleaner, or will have problems in very short order. Or you'll have some symptoms like hard starting, lack of power, lousy idle, hard starting, etc. There are cases beyond the scope of fuel system cleaners that require repair or replacement of parts. Fuel system cleaners have their place, can they fix everything? No. Do fuel system cleaners get blamed when things go wrong in a situation like this? Yes. I'd be willing to bet the OP would have developed problems either way.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Boomer
Not so. I used an entire bottle as directed on a Chevy truck and had massive injector problems immediately afterwards (within 50 miles). Several were so badly clogged with a soluble-in-acetone-only granular crud that they had to be replaced. Others were able to be cleaned. I never understood where the stuff originated but I would never add a whole bottle again . Truck at the time had about 30,000 mile on it.
Sounds like a one in a million shot, the injectors were probably on their way out before the addition of the product. Bad luck and coincidence meeting head on. JMO BTW I'm not flaming you, but these things can and do happen.
No I don't agree, if you put solvents into a dirty fuel tank it will result in crud blocking the fuel filter. Unfortuntely there are two possible complications of a blocked filter that can occur before the engine stops, firstly the filter element is already split for some reason and the second one is that the fuel pump is too powerful in relation to the strength of the filter element, so it simply pulls dirt through the element or past the seals before the engine quits.
I had that happen when I cleaned a fuel tank for a yacht once, although some muppet assistant had fitted the wrong size primary element in the Racor, so the primary filter did nothing, the small secondary blocked solid but the Yanmar 2GM used the same lift pump as a bigger 4GM and also had a fast bleed electric pump fitted. The crud trashed the injection pump and blew out the injector tips without warning. That was the last time I tried cleaning out a tank the fast way.
If you have got gummed injectors, don't put solvents in the tank unless you feel lucky and have spare filters ready (They don't work too well anyway). Use a top quality direct feed solvent type additive that you can pour into the fuel filter housing or feed into the fuel line.
If you have a fuel tank that dirty you have problems with or without a fuel system cleaner, or will have problems in very short order. Or you'll have some symptoms like hard starting, lack of power, lousy idle, hard starting, etc. There are cases beyond the scope of fuel system cleaners that require repair or replacement of parts. Fuel system cleaners have their place, can they fix everything? No. Do fuel system cleaners get blamed when things go wrong in a situation like this? Yes. I'd be willing to bet the OP would have developed problems either way.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Boomer
Not so. I used an entire bottle as directed on a Chevy truck and had massive injector problems immediately afterwards (within 50 miles). Several were so badly clogged with a soluble-in-acetone-only granular crud that they had to be replaced. Others were able to be cleaned. I never understood where the stuff originated but I would never add a whole bottle again . Truck at the time had about 30,000 mile on it.
I forgot to say that I was thinking of diesel tanks, as petrol ones just need draining of water if they are not used for a long time.
Not sure what type of truck was involved, but with common rail injectors they will fail suddenly if your fuel filter splits or the seals fail and seriously bad sludge gets fed to them. The old injection pumps used to sieze resulting in a cloud of black smoke, but the tips of the injectors were nearly always damaged at the same time.
Sounds like a one in a million shot, the injectors were probably on their way out before the addition of the product. Bad luck and coincidence meeting head on. JMO BTW I'm not flaming you, but these things can and do happen.
No I don't agree, if you put solvents into a dirty fuel tank it will result in crud blocking the fuel filter. Unfortuntely there are two possible complications of a blocked filter that can occur before the engine stops, firstly the filter element is already split for some reason and the second one is that the fuel pump is too powerful in relation to the strength of the filter element, so it simply pulls dirt through the element or past the seals before the engine quits.
I had that happen when I cleaned a fuel tank for a yacht once, although some muppet assistant had fitted the wrong size primary element in the Racor, so the primary filter did nothing, the small secondary blocked solid but the Yanmar 2GM used the same lift pump as a bigger 4GM and also had a fast bleed electric pump fitted. The crud trashed the injection pump and blew out the injector tips without warning. That was the last time I tried cleaning out a tank the fast way.
If you have got gummed injectors, don't put solvents in the tank unless you feel lucky and have spare filters ready (They don't work too well anyway). Use a top quality direct feed solvent type additive that you can pour into the fuel filter housing or feed into the fuel line.
If you have a fuel tank that dirty you have problems with or without a fuel system cleaner, or will have problems in very short order. Or you'll have some symptoms like hard starting, lack of power, lousy idle, hard starting, etc. There are cases beyond the scope of fuel system cleaners that require repair or replacement of parts. Fuel system cleaners have their place, can they fix everything? No. Do fuel system cleaners get blamed when things go wrong in a situation like this? Yes. I'd be willing to bet the OP would have developed problems either way.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Boomer
Not so. I used an entire bottle as directed on a Chevy truck and had massive injector problems immediately afterwards (within 50 miles). Several were so badly clogged with a soluble-in-acetone-only granular crud that they had to be replaced. Others were able to be cleaned. I never understood where the stuff originated but I would never add a whole bottle again . Truck at the time had about 30,000 mile on it.
I forgot to say that I was thinking of diesel tanks, as petrol ones just need draining of water if they are not used for a long time.
Not sure what type of truck was involved, but with common rail injectors they will fail suddenly if your fuel filter splits or the seals fail and seriously bad sludge gets fed to them. The old injection pumps used to sieze resulting in a cloud of black smoke, but the tips of the injectors were nearly always damaged at the same time.
Sounds like a one in a million shot, the injectors were probably on their way out before the addition of the product. Bad luck and coincidence meeting head on. JMO BTW I'm not flaming you, but these things can and do happen.
No I don't agree, if you put solvents into a dirty fuel tank it will result in crud blocking the fuel filter. Unfortuntely there are two possible complications of a blocked filter that can occur before the engine stops, firstly the filter element is already split for some reason and the second one is that the fuel pump is too powerful in relation to the strength of the filter element, so it simply pulls dirt through the element or past the seals before the engine quits.
I had that happen when I cleaned a fuel tank for a yacht once, although some muppet assistant had fitted the wrong size primary element in the Racor, so the primary filter did nothing, the small secondary blocked solid but the Yanmar 2GM used the same lift pump as a bigger 4GM and also had a fast bleed electric pump fitted. The crud trashed the injection pump and blew out the injector tips without warning. That was the last time I tried cleaning out a tank the fast way.
If you have got gummed injectors, don't put solvents in the tank unless you feel lucky and have spare filters ready (They don't work too well anyway). Use a top quality direct feed solvent type additive that you can pour into the fuel filter housing or feed into the fuel line.
If you have a fuel tank that dirty you have problems with or without a fuel system cleaner, or will have problems in very short order. Or you'll have some symptoms like hard starting, lack of power, lousy idle, hard starting, etc. There are cases beyond the scope of fuel system cleaners that require repair or replacement of parts. Fuel system cleaners have their place, can they fix everything? No. Do fuel system cleaners get blamed when things go wrong in a situation like this? Yes. I'd be willing to bet the OP would have developed problems either way.
Originally Posted By: GeorgeMP
How many gallons of gas is it good for? I was reading 100 to 150 gallons on this website; is that correct? If it treats that many gallons then one bottle in a 15 gallon tank would be too much.
Also, how are the maintenance doses done?
Just want to see how other people are using the Redline product. Thanks.
I use about 1/2 bottle of RL SI-1 or Techron in all of my cars and motorcycles every 20,000 miles. Never had a EFI issue on any of them and when I service the throttle body at 150k they are always very clean for that much mileage. If you start using fuel system cleaners when the vehicle is new as part of the normal maintenance program you will have no issues.
How many gallons of gas is it good for? I was reading 100 to 150 gallons on this website; is that correct? If it treats that many gallons then one bottle in a 15 gallon tank would be too much.
Also, how are the maintenance doses done?
Just want to see how other people are using the Redline product. Thanks.
I use about 1/2 bottle of RL SI-1 or Techron in all of my cars and motorcycles every 20,000 miles. Never had a EFI issue on any of them and when I service the throttle body at 150k they are always very clean for that much mileage. If you start using fuel system cleaners when the vehicle is new as part of the normal maintenance program you will have no issues.
I dumped a full bottle in a 1991 4runner that I have owned since new. Helped improve the idling. Now I use a shot or 2 in the tank every other month or so. Same with both Lexus we have. I used to use Lucas and seafoam, but this Redline is much better based on how my cars perform.
MORE ANECDOTAL EXPERIENCE:
Before I did my whole-engine buildup on my 328Ci, I was using Redline SI-1 every 2.5-5k by dumping an entire bottle into the tank just before filling up (always Shell 93/94 or Chevron 94)... When I pulled the injectors during the engine teardown, all six were operating at >98.5% efficiency, and at this point the car had ~60k miles and was ~8yrs old!
After the post-build 20k mile teardown and inspection, during which I'd run only Shell 93/94, Chevron 94, and UL Race gas (100-110oct) and ALWAYS used Redline SI-1 in amounts between 1 bottle-per-Tank and 2oz-per-tank, depending on the conditions (full bottle was during street driving to keep it clean between races).... The Bosch uprated injectors were literally as good as new, despite pumping more than 2.5x the amount of fuel that the stock fuel injectors were capable of!
Not to mention, Redline and RP oils kept the engine literally shiny-clean, without so much as scuffs on the Schrick cam lobes!
Before I did my whole-engine buildup on my 328Ci, I was using Redline SI-1 every 2.5-5k by dumping an entire bottle into the tank just before filling up (always Shell 93/94 or Chevron 94)... When I pulled the injectors during the engine teardown, all six were operating at >98.5% efficiency, and at this point the car had ~60k miles and was ~8yrs old!
After the post-build 20k mile teardown and inspection, during which I'd run only Shell 93/94, Chevron 94, and UL Race gas (100-110oct) and ALWAYS used Redline SI-1 in amounts between 1 bottle-per-Tank and 2oz-per-tank, depending on the conditions (full bottle was during street driving to keep it clean between races).... The Bosch uprated injectors were literally as good as new, despite pumping more than 2.5x the amount of fuel that the stock fuel injectors were capable of!
Not to mention, Redline and RP oils kept the engine literally shiny-clean, without so much as scuffs on the Schrick cam lobes!
Welcome Back, stranger!
Redline SI-1 is great stuff and in all our vehicles, I use a full bottle in a full tank of fuel before every OCI...
Usually a 7K OCI using syn oil. If its a DI engine then I do 5K OCI's with syn oil.
Usually a 7K OCI using syn oil. If its a DI engine then I do 5K OCI's with syn oil.
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