I haven't heard much talk anymore on redline products,...how many folks out there are using their motor oil anymore? Please give reason for it, let me know if your UOA results were good/bad, and how long you ran the oil. I have heard that these oils are hard to analyse, and that terry dyson once said that you have to do several UOA's to get a correct reading?
Redline oils poll.....
- Thread starter Ponch
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180,000 trouble free miles. Good consistent UOAs.
When the valve cover was removed at 200k miles, everything was bright and shiny. No sludge, or varnish visible. Most OCIs are 10k miles, have gone as far as 20K miles.
When the valve cover was removed at 200k miles, everything was bright and shiny. No sludge, or varnish visible. Most OCIs are 10k miles, have gone as far as 20K miles.
hannaco, what kind of car?
I used a mix of Redline straight weight race oil and RP HDEO in both of my Excursion PSD and VW TDI. 130K on the EX and 165K on the VW. OCI is 10K for the EX and 12.5K for the VW. The reason for the mix is because I have a lot of Redline oil that I use for racing.
Now that's a strange mixture.
""UOAs.""
I don't need no stinking UOA's LOL.
I make my own PCMO's but do Run RL off and on I get it (free) and all I can say is years ago I COOKED my Bronco (blown) rad hose in Fresno in the summer 100F+ ran it dry looking for a gas station for water.
Had RL 10/40 in it but dry motor started to sieze parked let it cool for a hour or so re filled water and fixed hose, crossed fingers and it started and ran for many years more with NO problem. Though it dropped a valve at 198K.
bruce
I don't need no stinking UOA's LOL.
I make my own PCMO's but do Run RL off and on I get it (free) and all I can say is years ago I COOKED my Bronco (blown) rad hose in Fresno in the summer 100F+ ran it dry looking for a gas station for water.
Had RL 10/40 in it but dry motor started to sieze parked let it cool for a hour or so re filled water and fixed hose, crossed fingers and it started and ran for many years more with NO problem. Though it dropped a valve at 198K.
bruce
Originally Posted By: bruce381
""UOAs.""
I don't need no stinking UOA's LOL.
I make my own PCMO's but do Run RL off and on I get it (free) and all I can say is years ago I COOKED my Bronco (blown) rad hose in Fresno in the summer 100F+ ran it dry looking for a gas station for water.
Had RL 10/40 in it but dry motor started to sieze parked let it cool for a hour or so re filled water and fixed hose, crossed fingers and it started and ran for many years more with NO problem. Though it dropped a valve at 198K.
bruce
That's what the overkill of protection is for.
""UOAs.""
I don't need no stinking UOA's LOL.
I make my own PCMO's but do Run RL off and on I get it (free) and all I can say is years ago I COOKED my Bronco (blown) rad hose in Fresno in the summer 100F+ ran it dry looking for a gas station for water.
Had RL 10/40 in it but dry motor started to sieze parked let it cool for a hour or so re filled water and fixed hose, crossed fingers and it started and ran for many years more with NO problem. Though it dropped a valve at 198K.
bruce
That's what the overkill of protection is for.
Originally Posted By: bruce381
""UOAs.""
I don't need no stinking UOA's LOL.
I make my own PCMO's but do Run RL off and on I get it (free) and all I can say is years ago I COOKED my Bronco (blown) rad hose in Fresno in the summer 100F+ ran it dry looking for a gas station for water.
Had RL 10/40 in it but dry motor started to sieze parked let it cool for a hour or so re filled water and fixed hose, crossed fingers and it started and ran for many years more with NO problem. Though it dropped a valve at 198K.
bruce
The one time I ran Redline in the Aerostar (got it $5 a quart AA clearance) was the time the heater hose blew and wife in hurry to get somewhere, we kept going another 8 miles of freeway. It was 5w20 Redline, but the weather was in the low 30s, which must have helped a lot. No evidence of any damage to engine after another couple years and 10 or 12 thousand more miles.
Note: While it is perfectly logical, you don't always think of it in the moment of blown hose "catastrophy," but once the water is out, the water temp gauge sensor is not submerged, and so is reading only hot air and will give rather normal readings. Had the gauge pegged I might have stopped sooner.
""UOAs.""
I don't need no stinking UOA's LOL.
I make my own PCMO's but do Run RL off and on I get it (free) and all I can say is years ago I COOKED my Bronco (blown) rad hose in Fresno in the summer 100F+ ran it dry looking for a gas station for water.
Had RL 10/40 in it but dry motor started to sieze parked let it cool for a hour or so re filled water and fixed hose, crossed fingers and it started and ran for many years more with NO problem. Though it dropped a valve at 198K.
bruce
The one time I ran Redline in the Aerostar (got it $5 a quart AA clearance) was the time the heater hose blew and wife in hurry to get somewhere, we kept going another 8 miles of freeway. It was 5w20 Redline, but the weather was in the low 30s, which must have helped a lot. No evidence of any damage to engine after another couple years and 10 or 12 thousand more miles.
Note: While it is perfectly logical, you don't always think of it in the moment of blown hose "catastrophy," but once the water is out, the water temp gauge sensor is not submerged, and so is reading only hot air and will give rather normal readings. Had the gauge pegged I might have stopped sooner.
RL gear and p/s oils in Outback and BMW. Used RL 5W30 in Outback and best economy quietness but to expensive. Playing with MTF/D4ATF ratios in BMW g'box to fine tune it for local conditions. Top stuff IMO.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
but once the water is out, the water temp gauge sensor is not submerged, and so is reading only hot air and will give rather normal readings. Had the gauge pegged I might have stopped sooner.
Bad design. My car has the temp sensor for the gauge attached to the head where it functions without water. The temp sensor for the computer is in the water mounted in plastic.
but once the water is out, the water temp gauge sensor is not submerged, and so is reading only hot air and will give rather normal readings. Had the gauge pegged I might have stopped sooner.
Bad design. My car has the temp sensor for the gauge attached to the head where it functions without water. The temp sensor for the computer is in the water mounted in plastic.
Originally Posted By: severach
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
but once the water is out, the water temp gauge sensor is not submerged, and so is reading only hot air and will give rather normal readings. Had the gauge pegged I might have stopped sooner.
Bad design. My car has the temp sensor for the gauge attached to the head where it functions without water. The temp sensor for the computer is in the water mounted in plastic.
Well guess I actually don't know where the water temp sensor is, but assume it was reading air because the temp gauge did not show overheat. So your water temp sensor actually does not read water temp? It reads head temp as a function of water temp (with some confounding from other factors presumably)? That actually sounds like a nice design. Maybe mine is that way and the Redline Oil actually held the temps down (just kidding).
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
but once the water is out, the water temp gauge sensor is not submerged, and so is reading only hot air and will give rather normal readings. Had the gauge pegged I might have stopped sooner.
Bad design. My car has the temp sensor for the gauge attached to the head where it functions without water. The temp sensor for the computer is in the water mounted in plastic.
Well guess I actually don't know where the water temp sensor is, but assume it was reading air because the temp gauge did not show overheat. So your water temp sensor actually does not read water temp? It reads head temp as a function of water temp (with some confounding from other factors presumably)? That actually sounds like a nice design. Maybe mine is that way and the Redline Oil actually held the temps down (just kidding).
No UOA's here, just some pure subjectivity. My older BMW 535i came with conventional 20w50 in the motor when I bought it with 205k miles on the original motor with original head gasket. Switched to Mobil 1 15w50 at around 220k and ran it until 260k or so...the engine seemed much happier on the synthetic. At 260k, decided to try some Royal Purple 20w50 and didn't really notice any difference in the motor's behavior compared to Mobil 1. After a couple fills of RP, switched to Redline 20w50 and was VERY impressed with the increased smoothness and throttle response over both Mobil 1 and RP. Motor ran great until about 285k, when a rod bolt decided to let go and lunched the block at 6500RPM on the main straight at Buttonwillow.
OCI's on the synthetic were 6-7k miles of HARD driving...to give an idea, I rarely got more than 8k miles from a set of tires and never did any burnouts.
New motor is running Mobil 1 15w50 for the time being (break-in was with Kendall GT1 conventional), and I will soon be switching back to Redline.
IMO, Redline is a great motor oil if you like to drive your car HARD, but I wouldn't spend the extra $$$ for a daily driver/commuter.
OCI's on the synthetic were 6-7k miles of HARD driving...to give an idea, I rarely got more than 8k miles from a set of tires and never did any burnouts.
New motor is running Mobil 1 15w50 for the time being (break-in was with Kendall GT1 conventional), and I will soon be switching back to Redline.
IMO, Redline is a great motor oil if you like to drive your car HARD, but I wouldn't spend the extra $$$ for a daily driver/commuter.
I ran Redline for the first 45K miles on the Tacoma with 5K change intervals due to warrenty....great oil.
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