Caterham misquoted; you are indeed correct:
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 2.7
HTHS Vis, cP @150°C, ASTM D4741 2.7
Redline Oil Compromises Mileage & HP??
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NYSteve and dparm I was wondering if anyone would pickup on that.
I deliberately typed 3.0cP and not 2.7cP because the 2.7cP figure that RL publishes is I believe is incorrect.
The HTHS vis of RL 0W-20 was tested a while back by a well regarded independant lab' and it came in 3.0cP. (I've been asked not to provide the lab's name because they charge for this info'.)
Furthermore, RL claims the following on their 0W-20 bottle:
"Red Line 0W-20 provides more bearing viscosity than most petroleum 5W-30s.....Formulated to suit the requirement for ACEA A3, and B3/B4."
"Bearing viscosity" is RL's descriptive term of sorts for HTHS viscosity.
BTW, I didn't realize this was an old 2006 post. Had I known I wouldn't have contributed to it.
I deliberately typed 3.0cP and not 2.7cP because the 2.7cP figure that RL publishes is I believe is incorrect.
The HTHS vis of RL 0W-20 was tested a while back by a well regarded independant lab' and it came in 3.0cP. (I've been asked not to provide the lab's name because they charge for this info'.)
Furthermore, RL claims the following on their 0W-20 bottle:
"Red Line 0W-20 provides more bearing viscosity than most petroleum 5W-30s.....Formulated to suit the requirement for ACEA A3, and B3/B4."
"Bearing viscosity" is RL's descriptive term of sorts for HTHS viscosity.
BTW, I didn't realize this was an old 2006 post. Had I known I wouldn't have contributed to it.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
NYSteve and dparm I was wondering if anyone would pickup on that.
I deliberately typed 3.0cP and not 2.7cP because the 2.7cP figure that RL publishes is I believe is incorrect.
The HTHS vis of RL 0W-20 was tested a while back by a well regarded independant lab' and it came in 3.0cP. (I've been asked not to provide the lab's name because they charge for this info'.)
Yes, my eyes bugged out when I saw you quoting 3.0 HTHS for RL 0w20. Since you don't normally make such mistakes, I wondered what was up. Have you run RL 0w20 in your engine to see if the oil pressure would be what you would expect of a 3.0cP oil?
NYSteve and dparm I was wondering if anyone would pickup on that.
I deliberately typed 3.0cP and not 2.7cP because the 2.7cP figure that RL publishes is I believe is incorrect.
The HTHS vis of RL 0W-20 was tested a while back by a well regarded independant lab' and it came in 3.0cP. (I've been asked not to provide the lab's name because they charge for this info'.)
Yes, my eyes bugged out when I saw you quoting 3.0 HTHS for RL 0w20. Since you don't normally make such mistakes, I wondered what was up. Have you run RL 0w20 in your engine to see if the oil pressure would be what you would expect of a 3.0cP oil?
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Hi A_Harman.
RL 0W-20 has been on my list of oils to try but I haven't tried it yet. As great as that oil's spec's look; 166 VI with no VIIs, I may never get to it.
The last oil I have track test is the Idemitsu made Honda 0W-20.
This oil was a surprise as it is about 10% heavier hot than the Toyota 0W-20 and it has shown no evidence of shearing so far. In fact I suspect it's claimed 199 VI may not be that high due to the high OP I get on start-up. But at operating temp's I don't need to run anything heavier; therefore no need to try RL 0W-20 or RLI 0W-20 that is also on my list.
BUT, just yourself, if you cover the cost of 4 quarts of RL 0W-20 and a new filter I will run the oil and report back....smile
RL 0W-20 has been on my list of oils to try but I haven't tried it yet. As great as that oil's spec's look; 166 VI with no VIIs, I may never get to it.
The last oil I have track test is the Idemitsu made Honda 0W-20.
This oil was a surprise as it is about 10% heavier hot than the Toyota 0W-20 and it has shown no evidence of shearing so far. In fact I suspect it's claimed 199 VI may not be that high due to the high OP I get on start-up. But at operating temp's I don't need to run anything heavier; therefore no need to try RL 0W-20 or RLI 0W-20 that is also on my list.
BUT, just yourself, if you cover the cost of 4 quarts of RL 0W-20 and a new filter I will run the oil and report back....smile
That's exactly what I'm saying but then Red Line has often recommended dropping a grade when switching to their oils.
Right now I have 3000 miles on an OCI of Redline 5w30 on my 96 Accord with 190K miles.
I whip the s##t outta that car! Lots of runs to high RPM's. The Redline oil has kept it running great so far.
All I know is that its expensive, and I won't pay that much for it again. I tried it, got it outta my system. Times are tight, from now on its the absolute lowest priced oil, streched out to the max!
I whip the s##t outta that car! Lots of runs to high RPM's. The Redline oil has kept it running great so far.
All I know is that its expensive, and I won't pay that much for it again. I tried it, got it outta my system. Times are tight, from now on its the absolute lowest priced oil, streched out to the max!
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
Right now I have 3000 miles on an OCI of Redline 5w30 on my 96 Accord with 190K miles.
I whip the s##t outta that car! Lots of runs to high RPM's. The Redline oil has kept it running great so far.
All I know is that its expensive, and I won't pay that much for it again. I tried it, got it outta my system. Times are tight, from now on its the absolute lowest priced oil, streched out to the max!
Watch out on a 1996 vehicle ie 15 years old with 190k miles. As Redline has extra seal swell affects on the seals due to its high ester content.
When you drain Redline the seals may shrink and possible weeping or leaks may appear. Thats what happened with my vehicle when I stopped using the Redline.
I would use an oil like Maxlife with some extra seal swell agents/additives on a vehicle of that mileage and age just as cheap insurance.
Right now I have 3000 miles on an OCI of Redline 5w30 on my 96 Accord with 190K miles.
I whip the s##t outta that car! Lots of runs to high RPM's. The Redline oil has kept it running great so far.
All I know is that its expensive, and I won't pay that much for it again. I tried it, got it outta my system. Times are tight, from now on its the absolute lowest priced oil, streched out to the max!
Watch out on a 1996 vehicle ie 15 years old with 190k miles. As Redline has extra seal swell affects on the seals due to its high ester content.
When you drain Redline the seals may shrink and possible weeping or leaks may appear. Thats what happened with my vehicle when I stopped using the Redline.
I would use an oil like Maxlife with some extra seal swell agents/additives on a vehicle of that mileage and age just as cheap insurance.
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saber1 had mentioned in his Audi turbo he noticed an increase in the turbo's ability to spool up [quicker], & also that ester based oils might help in direct injected cars by having low volitazation thereby decreasing intake valve deposits. I was a bit skeptical on the turbo spooling so much quicker as to be immediately noticeable, but having ran it for over 1k miles now I can confirm it did the same in my car.
I had kind of forgotten it in fact & for a couple days there was wondering why my car was pulling harder again until I ran onto his post here again. As my original main decision to use it had more to do w/ less intake valve deposits. But I'm definitely a believer now. Mt turbo spools quicker now. Like him, I'm sure I'd notice it even more if I went back to something else, as we humans seem to notice more what we lose then gain.
I had kind of forgotten it in fact & for a couple days there was wondering why my car was pulling harder again until I ran onto his post here again. As my original main decision to use it had more to do w/ less intake valve deposits. But I'm definitely a believer now. Mt turbo spools quicker now. Like him, I'm sure I'd notice it even more if I went back to something else, as we humans seem to notice more what we lose then gain.
P.s. It is two words btw... Red Line, not Redline. I wouldn't bring this up [again] but we are a fanatical oil forum so I figured I'd mention it, though I'm not one to correct as my spelling & grammar sucks so be nice.
I'm just pointing it out b/c it's an oil thing. 
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
Right now I have 3000 miles on an OCI of Redline 5w30 on my 96 Accord with 190K miles.
I whip the s##t outta that car! Lots of runs to high RPM's. The Redline oil has kept it running great so far.
All I know is that its expensive, and I won't pay that much for it again. I tried it, got it outta my system. Times are tight, from now on its the absolute lowest priced oil, streched out to the max!
^^^ WHY ? ^^^ what's the purpose of beating it up?
Right now I have 3000 miles on an OCI of Redline 5w30 on my 96 Accord with 190K miles.
I whip the s##t outta that car! Lots of runs to high RPM's. The Redline oil has kept it running great so far.
All I know is that its expensive, and I won't pay that much for it again. I tried it, got it outta my system. Times are tight, from now on its the absolute lowest priced oil, streched out to the max!
^^^ WHY ? ^^^ what's the purpose of beating it up?
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