Redline D6 ATF vs Valvoline Maxlife ?
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Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
So would you suggest that I spend the extra money and starting using Redline for my just purchased 2008 Nissan Titan 129k miles?
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
So would you suggest that I spend the extra money and starting using Redline for my just purchased 2008 Nissan Titan 129k miles?
IME Red Line is excellent and performs well in severe duty applications like towing, racing, etc. Maxlife is just as good for most applications but cheaper.
I don't think you would notice any difference between ML and Red Line in the Nissan. I would use ML and change every 30-50k miles depending on whether you tow, etc.
I don't think you would notice any difference between ML and Red Line in the Nissan. I would use ML and change every 30-50k miles depending on whether you tow, etc.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
So would you suggest that I spend the extra money and starting using Redline for my just purchased 2008 Nissan Titan 129k miles?
No I would not. How many times has the transmission been serviced?
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
So would you suggest that I spend the extra money and starting using Redline for my just purchased 2008 Nissan Titan 129k miles?
No I would not. How many times has the transmission been serviced?
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
So would you suggest that I spend the extra money and starting using Redline for my just purchased 2008 Nissan Titan 129k miles?
No I would not. How many times has the transmission been serviced?
When I bought the truck 3 weeks ago it had no service records. It's an 08 with 129,600 miles right now. Runs great!
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Hello, Does Valvoline Maxlife have an additive package that is equal to Redline has in their D6 ATF?
The Maxlife is similar but has a bit more phosphorus.
So would you suggest that I spend the extra money and starting using Redline for my just purchased 2008 Nissan Titan 129k miles?
No I would not. How many times has the transmission been serviced?
When I bought the truck 3 weeks ago it had no service records. It's an 08 with 129,600 miles right now. Runs great!
I would drain and fill at each oil change for the next 3 changes. From then on a drain and fill every 50K.
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
Originally Posted by cronk
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
What do you define as a short period of time. Why not just go get it all flushed out at once,and then replace it all with Maxlife?
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
What do you define as a short period of time. Why not just go get it all flushed out at once,and then replace it all with Maxlife?
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by cronk
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
What do you define as a short period of time. Why not just go get it all flushed out at once,and then replace it all with Maxlife?
The only issue possible with a flush is with an unknown service history there can be loose clutch material helping the transmission not to slip. If you change the fluid at once this may cause issues. The crux is if this is the case eventually your transmission will have the issue.
Also if you had any indication the transmission was serviced by the prior owner I would not worry about a flush and I would do one now and every 80 to 100K now on.
Originally Posted by cronk
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
What do you define as a short period of time. Why not just go get it all flushed out at once,and then replace it all with Maxlife?
The only issue possible with a flush is with an unknown service history there can be loose clutch material helping the transmission not to slip. If you change the fluid at once this may cause issues. The crux is if this is the case eventually your transmission will have the issue.
Also if you had any indication the transmission was serviced by the prior owner I would not worry about a flush and I would do one now and every 80 to 100K now on.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by cronk
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
What do you define as a short period of time. Why not just go get it all flushed out at once,and then replace it all with Maxlife?
The only issue possible with a flush is with an unknown service history there can be loose clutch material helping the transmission not to slip. If you change the fluid at once this may cause issues. The crux is if this is the case eventually your transmission will have the issue.
Also if you had any indication the transmission was serviced by the prior owner I would not worry about a flush and I would do one now and every 80 to 100K now on.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Originally Posted by lawnguy
Originally Posted by cronk
Drain and fills only get u a usually 30-40% of the fluid.
I would do 3 or 4 over a short period of time to get mostly fresh fluid in there. then do the drain and fills every 30k.
What do you define as a short period of time. Why not just go get it all flushed out at once,and then replace it all with Maxlife?
The only issue possible with a flush is with an unknown service history there can be loose clutch material helping the transmission not to slip. If you change the fluid at once this may cause issues. The crux is if this is the case eventually your transmission will have the issue.
Also if you had any indication the transmission was serviced by the prior owner I would not worry about a flush and I would do one now and every 80 to 100K now on.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Your welcome sir.
To answer the question you really need to say what temp range the transmsion operates in. But here at Bob's they will always tell you to use the lower quality base oil product always, w/o even asking you needed questions. Here at bob's the regulars a group of "oil guys" have bought into the never being able to prove a difference in componant life with the extra performance you get from poa/ester based fluid. I'm not saying they are wrong by any means, maybe they are right. But save yourself the energy of asking the question here, they will always refer you to the lower quality base oils.
Drop pan change filters put back pan, if you used rtv let it cure before adding fluid, then add fluid but DO NOT turn on truck. Pick a point in the line past the torque convertor and remove and attach plastic tube, you can see when the dark fluid turns to bright. You need to add a quart at a time and you drain a quart at a time and turn of truck each time. My truck needs to be in nuetral for transmsion flow. This was you get well over 95% of the fluid changed. Check the youtubes for your year and model and look up dyi transmsion flush, watch a couple. Generally speaking full flushes would be somewhere around 1.5-2/5 on the difficulty scale. Some transmsions needs specialized equipment and proceedures, zf tranny's and toyo are prime examples, they boost the difficulty scale near 4 in some cases. I believe transmsion fluid is vitally important to change frequently. One nice thing about group 4/5 fluids is it increases the interval, so you can do it less. Example again is the zf transmsion, the pao based fluid is called a lifetime fluid. Now, is that a joke? Yes, there is no such thing, but it is an example of what a manu has decided to use for lifetime fluids. If you use maxlife and are not inclined to do full flush, they have a cheap pump that will easily pull a gallon out of tranny and you can out back a gallon, everytime you change your engine oil. The real question should be is constantly keeping tranny oil clean a better option then using an expensive high quality base fluid? Now, I am on board with that strategy, and if you want that truck lasting a good long time at high miles, doing quick flushes is likely better then a full flush with redline over time in a light duty vehicle.
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Originally Posted by burla
To answer the question you really need to say what temp range the transmsion operates in. But here at Bob's they will always tell you to use the lower quality base oil product always, w/o even asking you needed questions. Here at bob's the regulars a group of "oil guys" have bought into the never being able to prove a difference in componant life with the extra performance you get from poa/ester based fluid. I'm not saying they are wrong by any means, maybe they are right. But save yourself the energy of asking the question here, they will always refer you to the lower quality base oils.
Once again burla chimes in with bias non factual opinion and sales speak. Thank you.
To answer the question you really need to say what temp range the transmsion operates in. But here at Bob's they will always tell you to use the lower quality base oil product always, w/o even asking you needed questions. Here at bob's the regulars a group of "oil guys" have bought into the never being able to prove a difference in componant life with the extra performance you get from poa/ester based fluid. I'm not saying they are wrong by any means, maybe they are right. But save yourself the energy of asking the question here, they will always refer you to the lower quality base oils.
Once again burla chimes in with bias non factual opinion and sales speak. Thank you.
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by burla
To answer the question you really need to say what temp range the transmsion operates in. But here at Bob's they will always tell you to use the lower quality base oil product always, w/o even asking you needed questions. Here at bob's the regulars a group of "oil guys" have bought into the never being able to prove a difference in componant life with the extra performance you get from poa/ester based fluid. I'm not saying they are wrong by any means, maybe they are right. But save yourself the energy of asking the question here, they will always refer you to the lower quality base oils.
Once again burla chimes in with bias non factual opinion and sales speak. Thank you.
speak of the devil, offering someone advice on the lower quality base fluid w/o ASKING HIM WHAT TEMP or Conditions such as towing the transmsion operates in.
Originally Posted by burla
To answer the question you really need to say what temp range the transmsion operates in. But here at Bob's they will always tell you to use the lower quality base oil product always, w/o even asking you needed questions. Here at bob's the regulars a group of "oil guys" have bought into the never being able to prove a difference in componant life with the extra performance you get from poa/ester based fluid. I'm not saying they are wrong by any means, maybe they are right. But save yourself the energy of asking the question here, they will always refer you to the lower quality base oils.
Once again burla chimes in with bias non factual opinion and sales speak. Thank you.
speak of the devil, offering someone advice on the lower quality base fluid w/o ASKING HIM WHAT TEMP or Conditions such as towing the transmsion operates in.
Try actually to understand what you post it will greatly help you become a reputable member.
I'm pretty clear what I said, using a lesser quality base oil product more often is the way to go depending on the TEMPATURE the transmsion operates at. An "oil guy" would ask about the application before automatically chosing a group 3 oil over an ester based one. But keep on doing what you do, being the unbiased credible guy that you are.
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