Redline ATF + Lubegard

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is it needed? or is it a waste of money to add the lubegard? I installed a transmission cooler a year ago or so for this hesitating upshift in this automatic due to overheating.
 
is there any potential additive clash with the redline? I believe lubegard does have some esters in it so I don't know how that would affect the redline esters. I do have six bottles of the red lubegard in stock though.
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I have used Lubegard and have faith in it.
Can I tell the difference in transmission shift quality? Nope!

But, it brought back a nonexistant overdrive and made one transmission's ATF very dirty in about 7k miles. This required another flush and bottle of LG and fluid has stayed spotless since. I guess that bio-esters clean well.

I don't see it as a waste of money.
But, I don't see the need for it when using a high quality synthetic ATF and reasonable maintenance schedules.
 
Lubegard "Black" highly friction modified ATF protectant topping off a flush and refill with common Dexron-III spec ATF tamed a harsh shifting problem in a '96 Accord autotransaxle I had. I used that product on the advice of my selling Honda dealer's service advisor and transmission guy. (Frankly, I was skeptical initially.) The "liquid wax esters" Lubegard touts are synthesized from bean and seed oils - caster, soy, peanut, cotten seed, etc. They also have a motor oil "protectant" (Lubegard shies away from the words, "additive" and "supplement" for whatever reason.) I've never used it, but it would be interesting to compare it with Auto Rx.
For more about the company, and its approach to lubrication, here's its biograph. Fancy credentials aside, there does seem to be something to the company's approach and I suspect bio-lubricants/esters will be an even greater force in automotive lubrication technology in the years to come - and not just as additives/supplements/"protectants".
 
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