Redline 0w20 vs 5w20

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When the cat. starts to rattle inside it is breaking up. This will result in back pressure, which leads to higher temps, and increased pressure on the head or to put it in other words, you might be in trouble.All that just to sleep at night. Or is that it??????
 
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
When the cat. starts to rattle inside it is breaking up. This will result in back pressure, which leads to higher temps, and increased pressure on the head or to put it in other words, you might be in trouble.All that just to sleep at night. Or is that it??????


???

Are you saying the additives in the Redline will cause the cat to break up? They don't break up from oil additives, they quit working as effectively which likely reduces heat. It's still unproven that ZDDP actually kills cats. I've been running a high ZDDP oil in the TL since new for 80,000 miles and no issues.
 
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
When the cat. starts to rattle inside it is breaking up. This will result in back pressure, which leads to higher temps, and increased pressure on the head or to put it in other words, you might be in trouble.All that just to sleep at night. Or is that it??????


Not sure what your saying here,but there's many,many people that run their street oils with no issues,so explain yourself here abit.
 
Why is Redline not API rated? Now there might be a reason that API should give Redline API rating and they, API do not know about it. SO with this discovered knowledge next week it is a must to notify guess who? BEFORE you do anything on BITOG. Call or e-mail asap....thanking you in advance and people wonder why I am not married.
 
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
Why is Redline not API rated?

It costs a lot of money and their are chemical restrictions on additives imposed by API SM.
 
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
Why is Redline not API rated? Now there might be a reason that API should give Redline API rating and they, API do not know about it. SO with this discovered knowledge next week it is a must to notify guess who? BEFORE you do anything on BITOG. Call or e-mail asap....thanking you in advance and people wonder why I am not married.


I didn't understand a word past the first sentence.
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Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
Why is Redline not API rated? Now there might be a reason that API should give Redline API rating and they, API do not know about it. SO with this discovered knowledge next week it is a must to notify guess who? BEFORE you do anything on BITOG. Call or e-mail asap....thanking you in advance and people wonder why I am not married.


I didn't understand a word past the first sentence.
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It's Saturday night,maybe too many drinks ?
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I did that a few times when younger on other boards. Thank God I rarely drink anymore. I would always be afraid to read what I wrote the night before. It was never offensive but sometimes not a single word was spelled right.
 
I've been tossing around using either Amsoil 0W20 or RL 0W20. My father is using the ASM 0w20, but on paper the RL 0w20 looks better and I don't have to pay another $20 to get PC pricing on the RL oil. My father might make the change too, since he would have to pay another $20 for the year to get the PC pricing. JMO
 
Because of the add pack Redline is a threat to emission controls. The SM rated oil are in place to avoid cat. and oxy. sensor problems. A neighbor of mine owns a salvage yard outside of Citi Field in Queens N.Y. He did a ton of business in used cats before the SM oil came out. Still doing business but not anything like before. I replaced a oxy. sensor on a 99 Protege Mazda for $365. You have to go to the stealer because the aftermarket does not work. I am just saying I think the noack of 8 is great, but the risk is not worth it. IMO
 
Originally Posted By: ottotheclown
Because of the add pack Redline is a threat to emission controls. The SM rated oil are in place to avoid cat. and oxy. sensor problems. A neighbor of mine owns a salvage yard outside of Citi Field in Queens N.Y. He did a ton of business in used cats before the SM oil came out. Still doing business but not anything like before. I replaced a oxy. sensor on a 99 Protege Mazda for $365. You have to go to the stealer because the aftermarket does not work. I am just saying I think the noack of 8 is great, but the risk is not worth it. IMO


I've been running redline for 15 years and never had a cat or o2 sensor failure on cars running redline, or amsoil for that matter. That includes some cars that had redline for over 300k miles. I think cat and o2 failures have more to do with cars in a poor state of tune, resulting in incomplete combustion, etc. than it does with zinc content in oil.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
They are very different oils.

The 5W-20 has been around for a while and is the same as RL's 5W-30 but with less VII. The VI is fairly low @ 145. Not a first choice as a Cdn winter oil in fact RL's new 0W-30 is a much better winter oil with a VI of 183. In fact at any temperature below 30C it is lighter.

RL's 0W-20 is new and is the lightest member of their 0W range of oils. The base oils used are lighter than the older 5W-20 formulation. VI is 166.
It is somewhat more expensive than the 5W-20 and with my RL supplier it is a special order; can take a couple of weeks to get.

PP 0W-20 is an interesting oil with an even better VI of 175 but I don't even know if it is available here in Ontario.
The VI shows most likley higher viscosity improvers.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Went with the 0w20.


I went with the 0w30 and it's being delivered on Friday from the guys who drive the brown truck
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Redline.jpg


Going in the 3 tomorrow.

Honda is on Synpower 5w20. 10k miles. Probably switch the 3 to Synpower after this run of Redline. I was thinking of running the Redline to 10k miles. The 3 doesn't burn any oil so I can see how well it's really holding up. Stopped doing UOAs on the Accord.
 
Trying to talk my father into using RL 0W20, his Amsoil $20 PC vig ran out, and it seems like a kick in the butt to pay another $20 to save a few $$ on the Amsoil. He's got a few months before the next OC, maybe when I visit during the Hoildays I can swing him over to RL.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Redline.jpg


Going in the 3 tomorrow.

Honda is on Synpower 5w20. 10k miles. Probably switch the 3 to Synpower after this run of Redline. I was thinking of running the Redline to 10k miles. The 3 doesn't burn any oil so I can see how well it's really holding up. Stopped doing UOAs on the Accord.


Hehe, funny to see from someone who bashed RL not so long ago now talking RL going next… Don’t be shy and buy by case
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UPS just dropped off the Redline 0w30 I ordered on Monday
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Saturday,when it's NOT RAINING.I'll be draining the Amsoil ASL out,Redline in!
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Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
They are very different oils.

The 5W-20 has been around for a while and is the same as RL's 5W-30 but with less VII. The VI is fairly low @ 145. Not a first choice as a Cdn winter oil in fact RL's new 0W-30 is a much better winter oil with a VI of 183. In fact at any temperature below 30C it is lighter.

RL's 0W-20 is new and is the lightest member of their 0W range of oils. The base oils used are lighter than the older 5W-20 formulation. VI is 166.
It is somewhat more expensive than the 5W-20 and with my RL supplier it is a special order; can take a couple of weeks to get.

PP 0W-20 is an interesting oil with an even better VI of 175 but I don't even know if it is available here in Ontario.
The VI shows most likley higher viscosity improvers.


An up-date for the record.
Neither RL 5W-20 or 5W-30 contain any VII's.
Their 0W-30 does contain a bit. Not sure about their 0W-20.
 
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