Recommended oil for F87 BMW M2 (N55)

So far 300V UOA I saw held better than M1, and interestingly, while they start with higher oxidation (Esters) they don’t end up with higher.
This sample is only street driving. I had like 20qt and it is new version. I thought I will track it, but had too much work.
how much ester/pao do you think it contains this new version?
 
They lowered ester for PAO.
It is more streetable.
i fill 4.5lt in my engine.can i mix 4lt (2cans) of motul 300v with ilt of a motul 5-40 excess or xclean? do they have same additives?just for economy and streetable use..the main reason is to take advantage of esters and clean the engine and perhaps soften some seals..maybe or 2 times use of this mix..
 
i fill 4.5lt in my engine.can i mix 4lt (2cans) of motul 300v with ilt of a motul 5-40 excess or xclean? do they have same additives?just for economy and streetable use..the main reason is to take advantage of esters and clean the engine and perhaps soften some seals..maybe or 2 times use of this mix..
They won’t have same additives. Those are completely different oils. Can you mix them? I suppose so.
 
300v 5-30 is it the same oil with 5-40 300v and the only difference is 3.5 hths,does it make it more street able?
It is a base and additive package that makes a difference. Generally, those oils are not designed for long-drain use.
But, I will send a sample these few days, and you will get an answer about oxidation and TBN. I ran it 5,000mls.
 
Bought the N55 135i and while test driving it, had to look up the normal oil temps. Wow these engine runs the oil temp hot. Drove home 850 miles, it was 240F pretty much the whole way.

Why would BMW run the n55 so hot for oil temps, besides economy and ensuring the oil does not have water retention in it?
 
Bought the N55 135i and while test driving it, had to look up the normal oil temps. Wow these engine runs the oil temp hot. Drove home 850 miles, it was 240F pretty much the whole way.

Why would BMW run the n55 so hot for oil temps, besides economy and ensuring the oil does not have water retention in it?
Thermostat will run engine as hot as possible on hwy. In cuty, track etc. it will increase cooling. Does it have radiator cooler or brick style one attached to OFH?
 
Not sure, need to do more research. The build sheet says "cold weather car" or something like that so I suspect no dedicated oil cooling.

Did a full fluid change today (non coolant or ps). Trans, Engine, Diff. Easy minus the rear diff, which was "filled for life" and required brace removal, and suction out of the the fill tube.

BMW starter pack below.

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Not sure, need to do more research. The build sheet says "cold weather car" or something like that so I suspect no dedicated oil cooling.

Did a full fluid change today (non coolant or ps). Trans, Engine, Diff. Easy minus the rear diff, which was "filled for life" and required brace removal, and suction out of the the fill tube.

BMW starter pack below.

View attachment 256387
Next time you change fluid in manual, go Redline D4 or better, Motul Multi ATF. Drastic change, especially with Motul.
These are two cooler options, if you have any:
IMG_4077.webp


Upper one is radiator. That attachment on OFH is thermostat.
Lower one is heat exchanger (brick). If you are going on track, don’t kid yourself you can do without radiator one. You will be in limp mode in no time.
 
Next time you change fluid in manual, go Redline D4 or better, Motul Multi ATF. Drastic change, especially with Motul.
These are two cooler options, if you have any:
View attachment 256389

Upper one is radiator. That attachment on OFH is thermostat.
Lower one is heat exchanger (brick). If you are going on track, don’t kid yourself you can do without radiator one. You will be in limp mode in no time.
If his transmission specs LT-5 he’d be better off with Redline DCTF or Pentosin FFL4. What is in the bottles he has is Febi Bilstein blended DCTF. I tried the Motul High Torque DCTF in my M2C and it wasn’t amazing. Not really any better than OE fluid.

In my Z4M I use Ravenol MTF-2. It shifts better than the ATF imo.
 
If his transmission specs LT-5 he’d be better off with Redline DCTF or Pentosin FFL4. What is in the bottles he has is Febi Bilstein blended DCTF. I tried the Motul High Torque DCTF in my M2C and it wasn’t amazing. Not really any better than OE fluid.

In my Z4M I use Ravenol MTF-2. It shifts better than the ATF imo.
D4 or Multi ATF will give him better shifting when hot on track, or generally hot,and still be good in cold.
 
I disagree, personally.
Ravenol MTF-2 and MTF-3 have the same properties as D4 or Multi ATF. D4 has -76f pour point, but I found Multi ATF being better in cold. Between these, I think it is a personal preference.
MTF-5, in which all transmissions are backward recommended, is very low in viscosity. It is just to improve cold shifting and get some mpg.
 
@edyvw it's the upper pic, so looks like it runs to the radiator.

Gents, the car is a manual 6 speed. It was suprisingly very hard to find a low mileage 135 convertible N55 6-Speed manual in a non gold color, and without interior wood trim pieces.

On a side note, only put 6 quarts of oil in (5 quarts Euro, 1 Quart 5w50). I checked it on the electronic dash, and it shows full. Most say 6.5 quarters. A bit odd.
 
@edyvw it's the upper pic, so looks like it runs to the radiator.

Gents, the car is a manual 6 speed. It was suprisingly very hard to find a low mileage 135 convertible N55 6-Speed manual in a non gold color, and without interior wood trim pieces.

On a side note, only put 6 quarts of oil in (5 quarts Euro, 1 Quart 5w50). I checked it on the electronic dash, and it shows full. Most say 6.5 quarters. A bit odd.
It should be 7qt actually without cooler. I think it is 6.5ltr. How long did you drive since oil change?
Manual are hard to find. I went to DC to pick up mine and drove it back to CO.
 
I changed the oil, and checked it. The gage spun for a while and then eventually read max. Haven't actually driven it yet (today).

I'm surpised the manuals in 135 are so hard to find. Seems to be a common younger enthusiast car these days, and they are all DCT. In my younger days automatics were a no go, granted 4 speed automatics in the last 90s/ early 2000s when I was into cars were terrible. I flew West Palm Beach Florida for this one, drove it back to TN.

If the car is very fast, I get the DCT need, but for a 300 hp car, gotta have manual.

What BMW do you have Edyvw?
 
I changed the oil, and checked it. The gage spun for a while and then eventually read max. Haven't actually driven it yet (today).

I'm surpised the manuals in 135 are so hard to find. Seems to be a common younger enthusiast car these days, and they are all DCT. In my younger days automatics were a no go, granted 4 speed automatics in the last 90s/ early 2000s when I was into cars were terrible. I flew West Palm Beach Florida for this one, drove it back to TN.

If the car is very fast, I get the DCT need, but for a 300 hp car, gotta have manual.

What BMW do you have Edyvw?
Mine is 2011 328xDrive.

You have to drive it to read the proper oil level. Give it some time. It sometimes takes 20+ miles to read at the proper level.
A quick search shows 6.9qt.
 
Ravenol MTF-2 and MTF-3 have the same properties as D4 or Multi ATF. D4 has -76f pour point, but I found Multi ATF being better in cold. Between these, I think it is a personal preference.
MTF-5, in which all transmissions are backward recommended, is very low in viscosity. It is just to improve cold shifting and get some mpg.
All the MTF and DCTF have friction modifiers for synchros, unlike the ATF. I tried D4 ATF in my first Z4M with ZF 6MT same line as the current BMW 6MT and I don’t think the shifting is as good without the modifiers, personally. I know plenty of people that agree with you, but I prefer to stick with an MTF or DCTF of the appropriate viscosity as you mention.
 
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