Recommended oil for F87 BMW M2 (N55)

There's nothing immature or unnecessary in my question. It seems you got your back up for whatever reason. I would think that someone that has probably lurked here for nine years would have at least a basic understanding of some of the topics discussed even if you post very seldom.
Well then, allow me to break this down for you. You decided to make a single post in a thread asking for oil recommendations. In that post, you made no recommendations, added nothing of intelligible value and did not contribute to the conversation at hand in any remotely helpful, or meaningful way. Instead you chose to ask a passive-aggressive, highly effeminate question that served no legitimate good-faith purpose, but was designed only to criticize the author's lack of knowledge, in which said author had already admitted to a lack of knowledge, openly. This is a textbook definition of what would be referred to as "trolling", which is both immature and unnecessary, as it does not add to the value of the conversation, but instead only detracts from and derails the conversation away from its inital intended purpose.

And your response to this is to double down on your own condescension and mistaken assumptions about a how a complete stranger spends his free time online and what knowledge you would expect this complete stranger to possess, based on an arbitrary statistic that you've apparently assigned value to.

This would lead me into making some assumptions about the nature of your character and your likely level of personal accountability, but I'll instead reserve my judgements and assume you're just having an off day. I suspect you'll make another snide, self-justifying response, that yet again, does not contribute to the nature of the conversation, but hey, maybe I'm mistaken (only time will tell!). Either way, I don't suspect that continuing this conversation between you and I will result in the furtherance of knowledge, but will only continue to deviate from the initial purpose of the thread, so I'll be ceasing to respond and just say: good luck in all your endeavors, brother.
 
I recently published peer reviewed paper with co-author who constantly used ChatGPT. I had to correct all his work because it just didn’t make any sense.
PPE 5W40 is around 3.8cP with one PDS having it at 3.88cP. It is GTL based and it will have higher HTHS. Edge had on several PDS 3.58cP and Castrol removed it from PDS eventually. Why? Who knows.
Don’t forget, N55 runs on LL01FE which has HTHS minimum 3cP. Also, there won’t be any energy conserving benefits going HTHS 3.5 compared to 3.8. Once you are at 3.5, that is not considered energy conserving oil. Now, will it theoretically be more efficient? Yes. But there is benefit to that: lower resistance = less loss of power = less heat. Golden rule of lubrication: as thin as possible, as thick as necessary. So, you want to be measured. I mean, I am currently running 300V 5W40 with HTHS 4.1cL, but that is only bcs. I have bunch of this oil. I mean if you want to sleep better at night, PPE 5W40, Motul X-Cess 5W40 GEN2 are stout oils with HTHS around 3.8.
Also, DME in N55 will keep both coolant and oil temperature bit higher at hwy conditions to increase efficiency. In city it will lower it a bit, start pushing it, you will see coolant temperature dropping trying to keep everything cool. So, cooling system will try to do its best when pushing to keep it cool. Maybe you should take it up Pikes Peak, push it hard, see where oil temperature ends. That will definitely push cooling system into overdrive.
I agree, ChatGPT doesn't always get it right! It's hard to filter what is actually tangible from posts on the Internet. While not directly related to spirited street driving, I found a thread where a guy claimed his N55 powered M2 only hit 220F oil temps on track, but found others that claimed they saw 270-280F temps. Hard to gauge someone's level of speed on track from forum posts, also tough to tell a myriad of other factors- elevation, temperature, course layout, session duration, how the data was gathered (logs or just a glance at temps on a straight?), level of traffic/airflow, A/C use (if on the street), modifications that might have affected the readings, etc. I suppose the only way to know is to figure out a way to monitor/log it for myself! While the car won't be tracked, taking a trip up Pikes Peak while logging/monitoring isn't a bad idea and should allow me to see more of a "worst case scenario"!

I'm not shocked about the DME increasing freeway temps for both oil and coolant. I have a BMW scan tool and I remember monitoring my 128i's coolant temps last summer after installing a new CSF radiator, water pump, thermostat and new hoses, to make sure it all was working well (as these cars don't have a temp gauge of any sort). I remember being shocked at how the car played with the thermostat based on my driving style, watching water/coolent temps go DOWN under repeated WOT. Coming from a guy that's mostly tracked more simplistic Japanese cars over the years (electronically controlled thermostat, what's that? lol), it was pretty eye-opening and led to me scouring the Internet to make sure it was operating as designed lol.

Thanks for all the insight, brother! It's appreciated!
 
I agree, ChatGPT doesn't always get it right! It's hard to filter what is actually tangible from posts on the Internet. While not directly related to spirited street driving, I found a thread where a guy claimed his N55 powered M2 only hit 220F oil temps on track, but found others that claimed they saw 270-280F temps. Hard to gauge someone's level of speed on track from forum posts, also tough to tell a myriad of other factors- elevation, temperature, course layout, session duration, how the data was gathered (logs or just a glance at temps on a straight?), level of traffic/airflow, A/C use (if on the street), modifications that might have affected the readings, etc. I suppose the only way to know is to figure out a way to monitor/log it for myself! While the car won't be tracked, taking a trip up Pikes Peak while logging/monitoring isn't a bad idea and should allow me to see more of a "worst case scenario"!

I'm not shocked about the DME increasing freeway temps for both oil and coolant. I have a BMW scan tool and I remember monitoring my 128i's coolant temps last summer after installing a new CSF radiator, water pump, thermostat and new hoses, to make sure it all was working well (as these cars don't have a temp gauge of any sort). I remember being shocked at how the car played with the thermostat based on my driving style, watching water/coolent temps go DOWN under repeated WOT. Coming from a guy that's mostly tracked more simplistic Japanese cars over the years (electronically controlled thermostat, what's that? lol), it was pretty eye-opening and led to me scouring the Internet to make sure it was operating as designed lol.

Thanks for all the insight, brother! It's appreciated!
On N52 it is water pump that does the work. Your CSF and oil cooler will decrease water pump load. But on N52 water pumps are really stout. I changed mine at 105k out of abundance of caution.

Yes, oil temperature depends heavily on track, configuration etc. Take out cowling, and it has huge impact on temperature. As you know, HPR is technical, so low gears, high rpms, it will tax cooling system, and add to that altitude + usually hot temperatures in summer. I have seen 335 with N54 from TX and AZ with dual oil coolers and CSF going in limp mode there. N52 128 IMO is really, really good vehicle for track fun. I saw someone dropping weight to 2,900lbs after stripping it. N52 will not create nearly similar heat as tuned N54, but you can use same cooling components. Also, what I do is fill sump with additional 0.5qt of oil bcs. G load and I run full heat during tracking on highest ventilation speed to help cooling.
 
Well then, allow me to break this down for you. You decided to make a single post in a thread asking for oil recommendations. In that post, you made no recommendations, added nothing of intelligible value and did not contribute to the conversation at hand in any remotely helpful, or meaningful way. Instead you chose to ask a passive-aggressive, highly effeminate question that served no legitimate good-faith purpose, but was designed only to criticize the author's lack of knowledge, in which said author had already admitted to a lack of knowledge, openly. This is a textbook definition of what would be referred to as "trolling", which is both immature and unnecessary, as it does not add to the value of the conversation, but instead only detracts from and derails the conversation away from its inital intended purpose.

And your response to this is to double down on your own condescension and mistaken assumptions about a how a complete stranger spends his free time online and what knowledge you would expect this complete stranger to possess, based on an arbitrary statistic that you've apparently assigned value to.

This would lead me into making some assumptions about the nature of your character and your likely level of personal accountability, but I'll instead reserve my judgements and assume you're just having an off day. I suspect you'll make another snide, self-justifying response, that yet again, does not contribute to the nature of the conversation, but hey, maybe I'm mistaken (only time will tell!). Either way, I don't suspect that continuing this conversation between you and I will result in the furtherance of knowledge, but will only continue to deviate from the initial purpose of the thread, so I'll be ceasing to respond and just say: good luck in all your endeavors, brother.
You're kidding, right? Sermon on the Mount and then some. Unbelievable...
 
I just read thru this entire thread -- what is the consensus for what motor oil to use in a N55? Im not trying to hijack this thread but im perplexed. I too live in Denver and I'm swapping out engines in a 2013 N55 powered X5 I picked up as a project. I've spent two hours trying to figure out which "LL01" oil I supposedly need so the used replacement doesn't grenade. Valvoline European factory direct will ship me a 5 gallon box for $107 but I need something to put into this engine for this weekend's swap project. Maybe run Supertech 5w-30 for the first 100 miles or until I receive the special oil?

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I just read thru this entire thread -- what is the consensus for what motor oil to use in a N55? Im not trying to hijack this thread but im perplexed. I too live in Denver and I'm swapping out engines in a 2013 N55 powered X5 I picked up as a project. I've spent two hours trying to figure out which "LL01" oil I supposedly need so the used replacement doesn't grenade. Valvoline European factory direct will ship me a 5 gallon box for $107 but I need something to put into this engine for this weekend's swap project. Maybe run Supertech 5w-30 for the first 100 miles or until I receive the special oil?

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Get Mobil1 0W40 or 5W40 in Wal Mart.
In swapped N55, if built before 2014, use heavier oils with higher HTHS. Anything 0/5W40 with LL01!
 
Understood and thank you! There is not much written recently on any forum regarding the Valvoline European line of Synthetic oils. I think I'll stick with true LL01 oils after I get this N55 tested and working.
 
Understood and thank you! There is not much written recently on any forum regarding the Valvoline European line of Synthetic oils. I think I'll stick with true LL01 oils after I get this N55 tested and working.
It has actual VW 504 00 approval, that would be good enough for me.
 
I didn't realize that Castrol Edge 5W-40 (or 30) are both LL01 licensed and approved (per bottle verbiage) and are readily available at the Walmart across the street from me. $24.72/5qt jug.
 
Have 15qt of that stock, and 6qt of stock older than that, and will use in my BMW this winter.
The reason why that stock does not have LL01 is that between 2018 and 2022 BMW dropped 0WXX oils from LL01 and LL04. Then in 2022, with new update, they returned 0WXX oils on approved list. Between dropping and adding again, nothing changed in the formula of that Castrol.
New formula, for US market starting in 2024, has updated base stocks and SP additive package, but one with higher phosphorous content, hence, API SL.
Could you explain why the high Phosphorous and API SL is retained. What is this good for, or what is the thinking behind it. i.e., why would I choose an API SL 0w-30 over an API SP 0w-40 for this application F87 BMW M2? In my case, a street driven, stock M2. My car has had a steady diet of BMW TPT 0w-30 up to now.

Thinking of changing to M1 0W40.

Thank You!
 
Could you explain why the high Phosphorous and API SL is retained. What is this good for, or what is the thinking behind it. i.e., why would I choose an API SL 0w-30 over an API SP 0w-40 for this application F87 BMW M2? In my case, a street driven, stock M2. My car has had a steady diet of BMW TPT 0w-30 up to now.

Thinking of changing to M1 0W40.

Thank You!
You normally would not do this, but Edy and some others really like that specific Castrol 0W-30 formulation with high PAO. That formulation is probably passing at least API SN but due to the higher P levels (ZDDP) it cannot be labeled any higher than SL if it's below a 40 grade. I ran M1 0W-40 in my S55 M2C and I would run that or PP Euro 5W-40 in an M2.
 
Could you explain why the high Phosphorous and API SL is retained. What is this good for, or what is the thinking behind it. i.e., why would I choose an API SL 0w-30 over an API SP 0w-40 for this application F87 BMW M2? In my case, a street driven, stock M2. My car has had a steady diet of BMW TPT 0w-30 up to now.

Thinking of changing to M1 0W40.

Thank You!
API set lower phosphorus limits for XW30 oils, but not for XW40 oils. Bot Castrol Edge 0W30 and 0W40 have same additive pack. But, since API SM, XW30 have lower phosphorus limits, so even though they technically have API SN or SP additive pack, they can only be labeled API SL (that additive pack that is used for Euro vehicles is can meet SP limits in XW40 grade, but SL in XW30 grade).
0W30 has more PAO, it is more shear stable, lower Noack etc.
Here is UOA of both oils. 4,600mls is 0W30 API SL, 5,000mls is 0W40 API SN. As you can see, they have same additive pack:
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Thanks for the info. I have been looking for the Castrol Edge 0w30, but cannot find it. Hence looking at M1 0w40. I will consider the PPE 5w40 as well. I appreciate the info.
 
Amazon has Castrol Edge 0w30

Personally I perfer locally available products, if possible. Running QS EURO 5W40 in my E90 328IX with an N51 engine. Cheap, ll01 & available at my local WM.

That M1 0w40 is also readily available where I live, another really good oil.
 
Amazon has Castrol Edge 0w30

Personally I perfer locally available products, if possible. Running QS EURO 5W40 in my E90 328IX with an N51 engine. Cheap, ll01 & available at my local WM.

That M1 0w40 is also readily available where I live, another really good oil.
Walmart will ship free to your door, if you buy two jugs or more (to meet their $35 minimum). I find euro oils are very spotty on stocking in Western WA State WalMarts. After visiting eight stores, over a few weeks and finding no euro oils, or only one jug on the shelf when I do (I need at least two) makes the decision easy to simply order online.
 
Again, if engine is older than 2014, stick to heavier oils, XW40! Those iffy rod bearings will appreciate that.

Picking up a 2012 135i shortly with a N55 (57K miles, history of 5w30 LL01 oil changes). Mobil 1 0w40 Euro sounds like a cheap off the shelf option?

Can I throw in a quart of 2 of left over Mobil Euro 5w50?


Thanks
 
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