Recommended oil following my specs

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Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Castrol 0W-40 is probably the best LL01 you can buy right now, and it's the cheapest as well, at least in the US.

+1
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Say it with me:

"The viscosity printed on the front of the bottle is irrelevant when choosing an LL01 oil."

Castrol 0W-40 is probably the best LL01 you can buy right now, and it's the cheapest as well, at least in the US.


Damm this never ends, when I think to known something a new comment comes and *puff* it is simply gone...

Originally Posted By: kschachn
I really thought you were kidding, I wouldn't have phrased it that way had I not. The knowledge you showed in your other replies in this thread made me think you were.

The reason that it "may be" is because the viscosity falls into a grade which allows for a range. But the "W" rating is not a viscosity, it is a cold temperature performance spec that is met by oils due to their chemistry. There is no 0 weight oil. All oil is way to thick at cold temperatures so you want it as thin as possible. 0W-40 and 5W-40 both have the same operational viscosity (or at least fall in the range for a 40-weight oil). It is merely that at very low temperatures the 0W oil will be less "too thick" than will the 5W. But both will have nearly the same viscosity down to 0 Fahrenheit. At that point the 0W oil will start to deviate and be less thick.

Additionally as rooflessVW points out and it's a good point, oil grade is nearly irrelevant when a specification such as Longlife-01 is concerned. And in the case of 0W-40 vs. 5W-40 there is nothing to be lost by using the 0W-40, you only gain a possible cold weather improvement in the starting viscosity. This may be of benefit in Michigan, it likely is for my BMW in northern Wisconsin.

Also like rooflessVW points out, the Castrol 0W-40 by all accounts is a very good oil. There is no benefit in purchasing anything else.


kschachn,
No worries and thanks again for all replies. I was thinking that a 0W oil would run so thinner during startups that would stimulate an oil leak or not protect the engine (as the car`s manual requires 5W).. but I see now, weight and viscosity are two VERY different things..

Thanks guys, I will get the cheap Castrol 0W-40
thumbsup2.gif
 
Even the thinnest 0W oil will still be 5 or 6 times thicker starting than the required viscosity at operating temp.

Good recommendation to always use the thinnest oil when cold that you can.

There is no such thing as "too thin" at startup.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
There is no such thing as "too thin" at startup.

..... just as there is no such thing as "too thick' at design operating temperature......... CAFE aside.
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
..... just as there is no such thing as "too thick' at design operating temperature......... CAFE aside.


How is that correct? Oil can be too thick and needlessly causing excess drag and loss. In no way does my 1NZ-FE engine require 20W-50 for adequate lubrication, it will not be "more better" at "protecting" my engine. It will only cause needless parasitic loss of power. Therefore, it is "too thick".

What if it's a solid at operating temperature?
 
Well this is why I have problems understanding it..

I was thinking like, larger number on the bottle = thicker the oil is, even the first number standing for cold temperatures/winter it still a lower number = tinnier.

Then I find innumerous information online were each one differs from another; like this threat on BMW forums stating that after testing both, a 5W-40 works better on this specific car (E46) than 0W-40 does: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d-Castrol-5W-40

Then I asked a master certified ASE mechanic: my manual says 5W-30/5W-40/0W-40, which one should I use? His words: stick with 5W-30 for Michigan, 0W-40 is too thick mostly used in crazy-hot ambient temperatures like south America…

Then here on the forums: "The viscosity printed on the front of the bottle is irrelevant when choosing an LL01 oil."

Then another source: check your oil when engine is hot and it will be like water.. which is true.

How I can interpret these numbers after all/what do they mean exactly? Why a certification/fabrication process is more important than the viscosity stamped on the bottle?
 
First off, the number before the "W" is not a viscosity, at least not like the "40" is. That confuses a lot of people, but there is no "0 weight oil". It is a cold weather performance rating. The lower the number the better is for easy starting in cold weather. That's all it is. You must divorce your thinking that it is a "0 weight oil". It is not. It meets the cold cranking specification that is required for it to earn a "0W" rating. It is good.

In my experience the people that post on other boards know nothing about oils. Once in a while there will be someone who comes along who does, but they are usually beaten down buy the myriad of doofuses who think they do but do not. Anyone who thinks that in general a 5W-40 oil "works better" than a 0W-40 has no clue. There are other differences between oil and additive packs that might make one oil work "better" in some way than another, but no one is ever going to say it is because of the viscosity difference. Why? Because there isn't one. Only at temperatures below zero Fahrenheit will there be a difference, and it will be a small one - but in the "good" direction.

The mechanic doesn't know what he is talking about either. First off, "in Michigan" the only thing that will matter will be the "W" portion of the rating. Your engine will not know the difference at operating temperature between a 30 and a 40 weight. The only time it will possibly know a difference is when it is cold and the "W" rating comes into play. And then, if it is very cold, you want the number in front of the "W" to be as low as possible to aid in starting. But other than that being "in Michigan" has no bearing on whether it is a 30 or a 40 weight. The operating temperature of your engine will be substantially the same.

And lastly, any Longlife-01 approved oil, whether it be a 5W-30, a 5W-40 or a 0W-40 will have a minimum HTHS of 3.5. That severely restricts the lower end of the operating viscosity of the oil. So despite them having different numbers, the oils are virtually the same in viscosity. That is why you're being told that in regards to LL-01 you can disregard the numbers printed on the container. It's also why we explained earlier that the grades have ranges. You can still have an HTHS of 3.5 in a 30-grade but will be at the high end of the range. And it will not be enough of a difference to matter.

Originally Posted By: 01_325ci
Well this is why I have problems understanding it..

I was thinking like, larger number on the bottle = thicker the oil is, even the first number standing for cold temperatures/winter it still a lower number = tinnier.

Then I find innumerous information online were each one differs from another; like this threat on BMW forums stating that after testing both, a 5W-40 works better on this specific car (E46) than 0W-40 does: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d-Castrol-5W-40

Then I asked a master certified ASE mechanic: my manual says 5W-30/5W-40/0W-40, which one should I use? His words: stick with 5W-30 for Michigan, 0W-40 is too thick mostly used in crazy-hot ambient temperatures like south America…

Then here on the forums: "The viscosity printed on the front of the bottle is irrelevant when choosing an LL01 oil."

Then another source: check your oil when engine is hot and it will be like water.. which is true.

How I can interpret these numbers after all/what do they mean exactly? Why a certification/fabrication process is more important than the viscosity stamped on the bottle?
 
Kschachn, thanks once again for all detailed info, as stated above I am definitely getting a LL-01 in my next oil change, in fact I will probably do it this weekend.

I was able to understand better after reading your comments and part of these articles below, but still don`t have a clear vision in general. It is really easy to confuse the public with this marketing/nomenclature system.

Accordingly to this article quoted, oil pressure doesn`t mean lubrication; a thicker oil will create higher pressure/temperature and reduced flow. The pump only creates flow not pressure, oil pressure will base on bearing clearance/orifices/oil thickness.
Quote:
It is time to introduce the concept of lubrication. Most believe that pressure = lubrication. This is false. Flow = lubrication. If pressure was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be using 90 grade oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the separation pressure in a bearing. The pressure at the bearing entrance is irrelevant.

We have seen that 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and straight 30 grade oils all have the exact same viscosity at 212 and 302 F. What about startup viscosities? Do 0W-20, 0W-30 , and 0W-40 all have the same viscosity at a 75 F startup. The answer is no. The SAE J300 standard allows for this discrepancy. Here are some examples:

..Viscosity at 75 F startup..

...0W-20.....0W-30.....0W-40
.....40............50...........60

The numbers are not exact but they show clearly that the ”0” represents different startup viscosities. This is unlike the 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 and straight 30 grade oils that all have the exact same viscosity in a hot engine = 10 cS.

I would like to comment on the following statements made by a knowledgeable automotive enthusiast:
“Pressure and flow are tied together with viscosity, but none have anything to do with lubrication. Lubrication is a property of the fluid, not the force. The oil pump would pump water just as well, but it would offer no real lubrication. If we double the pressure, we double the flow. If you decrease the viscosity to a lighter oil, you increase flow at a loss of pressure. High flow helps to carry away more heat. High pressure helps to keep metal parts like the bearings out of contact with each other (scuffing).”

Here is one example. Take an air conditioner closed bearing compressor for your home’s A/C unit. Put a nipple on the bearing at one end of the shaft. Now pressurize the bearing. It will do nothing extra to reduce wear, nothing.

I give you the following example to help visualize what is happening with motor oil. This assumes the oil has no internal resistance. In actuality doubling the pressure will not double the flow but will be slightly less. And thicker oils have more resistance than thinner oils for all situations. But simplified we get the following:

For a 30 grade oil at operating temperature:
RPM....Pressure..Flow
1,000......20 PSI....1
2,000......40 PSI....2
4,000......80 PSI....4
8,000... 160 PSI....8 The maximum flow because of the oil pop off valve at 90 PSI will be 5

For a 30 grade oil at operating temperature
and a higher output oil pump:
RPM....Pressure..Flow
1,000......30 PSI....1.5
2,000......60 PSI....3
4,000....120 PSI....6 The maximum flow because of the oil pop off valve at 90 PSI will be 5
8,000... 240 PSI....12

If we stick with the same grade oil and increase the oil pump output we will increase the pressure and the oil flow too. If we double the oil pump output we will double the pressure and we will double the oil flow (in an ideal system). But we are always limited by the oil relief valve:

RPM....Pressure..Flow
1,000......40 PSI....2
2,000......80 PSI....4
4,000....160 PSI....8 The maximum flow because of the oil pop off valve at 90 PSI will be 5
8,000... 320 PSI....16


Let us compare a 40 grade oil at operating temperature:
The oil is thicker, has more internal resistance and therefore requires more pressure to get the same flow (baseline engine).
RPM....Pressure..Flow
1,000......30 PSI....1
2,000......60 PSI....2
4,000....120 PSI....4 The maximum flow because of the oil pop off valve at 90 PSI will be 3
8,000....240 PSI....8

For a 40 grade oil at operating temperature
and a higher output oil pump:
RPM....Pressure..Flow
1,000......45 PSI....1.5
2,000......90 PSI....3 The maximum flow because of the oil pop off valve at 90 PSI will be 3
4,000....180 PSI....6
8,000... 360 PSI....12

For a 40 grade oil at operating temperature
with the original pressures:
RPM....Pressure..Flow
1,000......20 PSI....0.5
2,000......40 PSI....1
4,000......80 PSI....2
8,000... 160 PSI....4 The maximum flow because of the oil pop off valve at 90 PSI will be 3

Increasing the pressure while using the same oil will increase the oil flow but increasing the pressure by increasing the oil thickness will result in less flow. It takes more pressure to move a thicker oil. When you go to a thicker oil the pressure goes up because of the increased resistance, and therefore reduction of flow. Because the pressure is higher sooner, the relief valve cuts in sooner. Flow will actually be less when the RPM is up and the flow is needed the most.

There is more to these graphs but I will continue with the next chapter.

Furthermore, in review, pressure does not equal lubrication. Let us look again at a single closed “lifetime lubricated” bearing. We could hook up a system to pressurize the bearing. This can actually be done. We could have the oil at ambient pressure. We could then double, triple, quadruple the pressure of the oil. The oil is non-compressible. Regardless of the pressure we would have the exact same lubrication, that of the ambient pressure lubrication.

The physics of lubrication as I said earlier show a 1:1 relationship of flow to separation pressure. Lubrication itself is pressure independent. I will not go into the mathematical equations for this.

Even water can be used as a lubricant. This is partly because of its high surface tension. It is used in many medical devices and other systems that are under or exposed to water. It is just that water rusts metal parts making this unsuitable for automotive engines. It actually has a higher specific heat than oil. It can therefore carry away more heat than oil from bearing surfaces. In this respect water is a better lubricant than oil.



-If it is all true, why a sport car like the M3 E46 requires 10W-60? oil temp will be higher on high engine loads/track and higher pressure would be bad for lubrication.. I don`t get it.

-Following my previous post concept, if oil grades are close to each other and oil gets really thin (like water) at operating temperatures, how does this thin oil protects the engine? As bearings rides on the oil film not the journal, wouldn`t a 40-50-60 grade (given greater thickness) protect better than 20-30 grades during high loads-revs?
Basing on quoted oil flow concept, a 20-30 grade would have a better flow reducing oil temp and improving lubrication with would be better for racing/track... again, I don`t get it.

-Will oil grade affect oil consumption on high mileage vehicles? Tinnier 30 would pass oil rings easily and burn more when compared to 40? Or the small grade gap difference wouldn't affect it and both would burn the same?

I see why 0 Winter is a better oil, mostly wear occurs at cold starts so being tinnier will improve startups lubrication, this doesn’t means it has a 0 weight tough (yes thanks, I get this part at least lol)

Here is both articles, this second one is really, really long and seems good but not sure if trustable, there is thousands of sources online..
http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/oils.htm
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: zeng
..... just as there is no such thing as "too thick' at design operating temperature......... CAFE aside.


How is that correct? Oil can be too thick and needlessly causing excess drag and loss. In no way does my 1NZ-FE engine require 20W-50 for adequate lubrication, it will not be "more better" at "protecting" my engine. It will only cause needless parasitic loss of power. Therefore, it is "too thick".

What if it's a solid at operating temperature?


Read:
Quote:
...... at design operating temperature

..... and your immediate post above refers.
 
I think you are overthinking it.
You asked for oil recommendations based on the specs in your manual.

Engine calls for an API rated S oil and 5w30 or 5w40.
So pretty much, you can use anything. I would lean towards the 5/30 simply because you live in a cold climate, if you were south I would lean towards the 5/40 or quite possibly now that I think about it, simply run the 5/40 since that engine was made in the day of more zinc/robust oils why not?

1. I would NEVER add anything to the oil to clean up the engine OR enhance the oil.
2. Personally I would simply buy a Diesel rated CJ4 oil and be done with it OR a CK4 that meets CH4 or higher API. Help clean up the engine, which looks fine to me and you still stay within the specs of the owners manual.
I have no idea why you are looking for oils with specs not listed when you can get an excellent 5w40 diesel/gas HEDO that meet the specs..
On top of it, the far superior HEDO that meets the owners manuals specs cost less then $20 a gallon.
 
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Originally Posted By: alarmguy
You asked for oil recommendations based on the specs in your manual.

Engine calls for an API rated S oil

Where did that come from?

His engine calls for an oil meeting BMW LL-01 spec. API rating is irrelevant.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
You asked for oil recommendations based on the specs in your manual.

Engine calls for an API rated S oil

Where did that come from?

His engine calls for an oil meeting BMW LL-01 spec. API rating is irrelevant.


It's comes from the OP in his first post. No mention of ll-01.

"2. What your owner's manual says = 5W-30 or 5W-40 API SH or higher, both may be used in any ambient temperature, changes accordingly to your BMW center (I do every 4000-5000miles and check oil level periodically). "
 
Got it. Thanks. I missed his reference to API SH in the OP. His manual must have been written just before LL01 came into being, which is a shame because there is a huge difference between API SH and LL01, and not every owner is going to know that BMW made a change to the latter.
 
Yep as others have said - there is no grade too thin on startup. As the weather is colder, the oil thickens exponentially. 0W just means it has more ability to not freeze and be pumpable in ridiculously cold weather (and that's probably simplifying it).
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Got it. Thanks. I missed his reference to API SH in the OP. His manual must have been written just before LL01 came into being, which is a shame because there is a huge difference between API SH and LL01, and not every owner is going to know that BMW made a change to the latter.


Exactly. Use an LL-01 oil and be done with it. Any of them.
 
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