Recommendations for a GM 5.3L V8

[strat81]

Recommend some oil!

1. 2004 Buick Rainier AWD V8. This is the GenIII gasoline 5.3L V8 that does NOT have cylinder deactivation. It has an aluminum block and heads, designation LM4. Purchased with 50k on the odometer, currently has 82k miles.

2. US Owner's Manual calls for 6 quarts of 5W-30 SL to be changed when the oil life monitor says to. Based on past experience with my vehicle, OLM usually hits 5% around 5,000 miles, give or take 500 miles.

3. Vehicle resides in Central Nebraska. We see temps down to -10*F in the winter and 100*F in the summer.

4. Vehicle is generally driven pretty calmly as there are kids in tow and we're in a suburban setting. Highway use will see WOT passing.

5. Vehicle is a daily driver that generally sees multiple short trips each day and is driven "in town", about 4 miles round trip per day. On weekends it will see highway use. Annual mileage is 9,000. No towing. Hauls kids and groceries.

6. Vehicle consumes oil, approximately 1 qt every 2,000 miles or so. It does not smoke.

I have used Valvoline MaxLife Semi-Synthetic 5W-30 and PureOne filters since I've owned it for the past 32,000 miles. Top-offs have been with various oils: VR-1 Racing Synth, Royal Purple, NAPA Synthetic, MaxLife, etc.

Given the number of frequent cold starts in the winter, I'd like to move to a 0W. For the noise and oil consumption, I'm thinking an xW-40 is the way to go, but I'd certainly consider an xW-30 that has a reputation for reducing oil consumption and offers good protection.

I'm not concerned with fuel economy or extended OCIs. I'd like to keep the cost around $5/qt or less. Bonus points if I can source it from Amazon or Wal-Mart.

I'm also open to a winter oil (0W?) and a summer oil (5W or 10W) since I generally end up changing the oil in the spring and the fall.

 

[SteveSRT8]

We have raised and killed dozens of engines in this family. 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 are all the same basic design.

First, note they are NOT hard on oil. Any synth on sale is far better than needed, follow the OLM like the Bible...

 

[nitehawk55]

A 0W30 would be fine year round . Use a good filter and a once a year OCI should be fine if you want to go the route or 2 times based on what your OLM is telling you .

I am surprised a bit at your oil use but then the SBC design was noted for that .

 

[FetchFar]

German Castrol 0w-30, must say Made in Germany on the back in small print.
Generally thought to be some of the best stuff one can buy. Autozone, PepBoys, or can be ordered at other parts stores.

Other than that, just about any big name synthetic will do, but I'd stick to any synthetic that passes dexos1, Honda HTO-06, and GM 4718M (Corvette) combined, as in Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30, Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30, Mobil1 5w-30.

 

[Clevy]

If you are after a 0w grade I don't ever recall seeing that grade in anything other than a synthetic so for winter you'd have to pony up the couple extra bucks.
I've got a 99 4x4 with the 5.3. The engines are known to make some noise at start up,it's called piston slap.
If you are going to stick with 5000 mile oil change intervals I see no reason whatsoever to incur the extra expense.
Your driving habits aren't all that severe and considering you are getting it onto the highway weekly the inevitable fuel dilution amassed from the short tripping during the week should get boiled off pretty easily.
I ran Amsoil in mine for the first 100k of ownership and I was happy with the product however after seeing that I could get jugs for roughly the same ,or less of pennzoil platinum or Quaker state ultimate durability I just couldn't justify the extra expense.
I am not much of a fan of Mobil however M1 0w-40 is a pretty special oil so if you like it its available at wal-mart for You get the cold start benefit in the winter and that oil had proven itself across a plethora of different applications and is quite possibly the most oem certified oil on earth.
Just in case you get a comment in relation to a 40 grade being harder on fuel than using a 30 due to parasitic loss I just switched from a 20 grade to a 40 grade in my hemi charger and in my experience the difference in consumption wouldn't likely be measurable in day to day driving.
If you want to stay with a 30 grade if pennzoil ultra is attainable its a great oil however I haven't seen a 0w-30 in that line yet,but they do have a 5w-30 and 10w-30.
German castrol can be found at wal-mart. Its a 0w-30 which iirc is thicker on start up than the M1 0w-40.
I worked my truck every day. I ran PYB 10w-30 in the summer which significantly reduced the piston slap at start up. As far as winter goes I used different 0w-30 grades and really didn't have any complaints.
What's your lowest winter temp the truck will operate in. I know that a 5w -30 is alright until -30c or so. Taking that into consideration and the fact you are going to follow the oil life monitor,which in my truck is 5000 miles,I believe a quality conventional such as PYB should be fine.
A conventional 5w-30 year round will keep that engine purring til the body falls off the frame. You've just gotta decide how much you want to spend.
In the summer any API SN 5w-30 or 10w-30 will be fine and paying more for a syn during the warmer months just isn't required however once winter hits you need to factor in the ambient temps.
Or just keep it simple and use M1 0w-40 year round and never give it another moments thought.
If you're going to follow the olm the M1 allows for a few extra thousand miles without any concern about oil condition.
I we could get M1 0w-40 here in jugs for 25 bucks or less I would use it in everything I owned.
There are a few real sports car oem's that specify that oil for their high output engines so considering what it costs in relation to what's in the bottle I think its the best oil a guy can buy,and mobils best oil.
I've gotta shorten the novels I've written lately.
I suggest a pm to Steve up there. He's got a fleet of Chevy engines that have accumulated 300-400k,in work vans,so he'd be the guy to ask as far as his routine and oil selection.
Hard to argue with those kinds of miles.

 

[901Memphis]

Caterham blend it.

 

[strat81]

Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
I am surprised a bit at your oil use but then the SBC design was noted for that .


I was too until I researched it online. LS-based engines often consume oil. I wouldn't call it a rule, but it's certainly not uncommon.

 

[strat81]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
What's your lowest winter temp the truck will operate in. I know that a 5w -30 is alright until -30c or so.


We might see some overnight temps hit -15*F (-26*C). I've had plenty of mornings where the ambient temp was -5*F (-20*F) when I've started the vehicle when I left in the morning. Days like that it feels like every moving part of the car has glue in it.

 

[bigt61]

SuperTech Synthetic 5W-30 - $17.50 a jug at Walmart. Extend your OCI a little if you want as long as you're keeping it topped off.

 

[stchman]

I have owned ( 2 ) GM 5.3L engines in my Silverados and I run the following:

Mobil 1 5W-30
AC Delco PF48

According to AC Delco, your 2004 Rainer with the 5.3L engine takes an AC Delco PF46 oil filter. I am fond of AC Delco oil filters, just avoid the PF46E(E-core) filter. Purolator makes great oil filters as well.

Check your owners manual and it will probably state you can use 0W-30 if you live in a cold climate.

 

[tstep]

Currently running 2 diffrent 5.3.

First is a Silverado 99 w/ 187 on the clock consuming little or no oil over 5000+ OCI. Currently running a 50/50 mix of 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum and 10w40 Shell Formula for a heavier 30 weight profile. I have run many different oils (VWB, VNG, VML, GOil, PYB, PP, Peak) in this one and the only one that I did not care for was Peak 5w-30 synthetic. The engine did not sound good for day one of the Peak OCI. Near the end of the OCI I believe there were a few moments of starved frontmost lifter on passenger side on a few occasions for very short intervals. Call it coincidence, but it has not happened on any other OCI.

Second Saab 2006 5.3 w/ 150ish on the clock. Eats oil, about 2 extra qts over the OLM OCI which is usually in the 7500 mile range. Think is has the cylinder deactivation though it doesn't help a bit as it is a gasoline pig. Spent a bunch of its life on various Pennzoil. Thought I had the consumption down with QSUD, but was just false hope. I had given up hope on fixing the consumption problem. I threw in a Frankenblend primarily of QSED HM 10w-30 with some other stuff to create a heavy 30. Consumption seems to be slower. I may try this on the next OCI and see what happens.

 

[Realtech214]

PYB or PP or PU 5w30 And youll be golden

 

[danthaman1980]

If your SOLE goal is to curb oil consumption, then sure - GC, M1 0W-40, QS Defy 5W-30, or M1 HM 5W-30 might slow it down some - but if I were you I'd be more concerned about cold starts, especially since yours is a short tripper and would see mutliple cold starts without fully warming up. I'd look for a 0W-30 or 5W-30 with the lowest KV40 and highest VI possible. The CATERHAM blend is excellent in this regard, but for off-the-shelf oils, QSUD, PP, PU, or Havoline Synthetic (all 5W-30) would be my first choice.

Also - try a Wix/Napa Gold filter. My 5.3 seems to like them better than PureOnes.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: strat81
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
I am surprised a bit at your oil use but then the SBC design was noted for that .


I was too until I researched it online. LS-based engines often consume oil. I wouldn't call it a rule, but it's certainly not uncommon.


It is important to note during online research that the many happy owners who do NOT have problems are rarely represented.

"Internet Amplification" is well known...