Recommendation on Transmission Temperature Sender + Remote/External Fluid Filter??

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Apr 8, 2024
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I'm rebuilding my Toyota U66E with the cheapest available works online. Hehe. So I want watch this thing closely before catastrophy can go down.

I haven't ever used or seen a tran temp gauge used. Also the remote oil filter needs to have the bypass valve in it in case something clogs it...like cheap rebuild parts. LOL

I appreciate the replies. :)
 
My first trans temp gauge took temp from the pan - I used a pan drain plug “kit” and then installed a sensor instead of a plug. Mounted the gauge on the A pillar.

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For remote filter and cooler - here is a FWD set-up on one of the Volvos. Fluid goes from Trans > radiator cooler > thermostat (which routes it to an external cooler if hot, and bypasses if not) > filter>trans. Logic is this: cold fluid gets warmed more quickly by the radiator. Once warmed up - the 180F thermostat will route the fluid to the external cooler and keep the temp about there. The cars are operated in very cold climates, so, wanted temp control, not just a ton of cooling. That Volvo, by the way, is in Northern Vermont, sees extreme cold and wide temperature swings. The fluid flows even when it’s -20F. It has AMSOIL fluid in it.

I used a Baldwin filter. B2-HPG, which has a built in bypass valve.


Derale makes a variety of mounts, and I used a Derale thermostat. I used a B&M 70264 cooler. I prefer the stacked plate to the fin & tube. More impact resistant (small rocks, etc.) and greater heat capacity. You could easily plumb a temp sensor in the lines.

For fabrication - I really like the “nut-sert” nut inserts, they work like a pop-rivet, and allow a thread nut in a blind hole. For clamps, Oetiker stainless steel band clamps. Quick to install, don’t leak, cheap. You have to buy the crimp pliers which are not cheap, but the clamps are cheap and the system works great. I’ve done this set-up on four cars. No leaks. No issues.

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if you aren’t operating in very cold climates, you can run it like i did.

out of transmission-> into external filter with a fram FS8a (motorcraft fl1-a size filter) -> into tru-cool 40k cooler -> back to transmission. i eliminated my radiator from the loop as my transmission always runs cooler than the 200 it did before. when it’s cold out i let my truck idle for 10 minutes and the trans fluid will be above 80°F so that’s when i take off.

i ran all -6AN lines with appropriate adapters and fittings as i don’t trust that many barbed connections under pressure.

you could run something like this and adapt the transmission temperature sender into one of the extra ports.
 
Thanks for the advice.

What should the pressure bypass valve to relieve any clogging? I see a diesel site that sells a $400 kit, and they use about 25-30psi in their pressure bypass valve. Should it be this high or lower? I should be able to recognize an oil pressure change on the custom gauge. I think the needle would be jumpy with the pressure valve opening and shutting which would let me know it's got something.

I see this one for a good price; pressure bypass valve and 4 ports. Can anyone beat that price?


I'm trying to find a 2 micron filter for it besides the $75 Amsoil one.
 
2 micron filter may be too restrictive. a 20um filter like a FE8a or if you can find an OG wire backed FS8a or XG8a should be more than enough considering its quite a bit finer than the in pan filter.
 
Correction. I just noticed that the filter mount I list with the link doesn't have a pressure valve in it. The seller was saying the Baldwin filter that's compatible has a 20psi pressure valve in it.
 
2 micron filter may be too restrictive. a 20um filter like a FE8a or if you can find an OG wire backed FS8a or XG8a should be more than enough considering its quite a bit finer than the in pan filter.
I figure if I change the external filter every or every other engine oil change that the 2 micron level shouldn't be too restrictive...especially since the pressure valve back up...plus the pressure gauge on the dash that will show a change to flow behavior.

I didn't see the FE8a's micron level listed anywhere.
 
I figure if I change the external filter every or every other engine oil change that the 2 micron level shouldn't be too restrictive...especially since the pressure valve back up...plus the pressure gauge on the dash that will show a change to flow behavior.

I didn't see the FE8a's micron level listed anywhere.
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I ordered the Amsoil eaBP 110 for the 2 micron shot to see how long it can last; $90 with the shipping. But I did find the Baldwin B7379 for about $20 with 5 micron nominal, 8 micron absolute. I got one of these too just in case.

I also was seeing the toilet paper roll route. Pff! Hehe, that is peculiar. It'd only require that the pot is upside up in the engine bay, and use a trash bag around the hand when replacing it during the intervals.
 
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