RE5R05A compatibility/interchange/swap questions

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So I just rebuilt a RE5R05A out of a 2008 Nissan Frontier 2WD. It was destroyed by glycol contamination... this is my first RE5R05A rebuild alone. I did a full rebuild with steels, clutches, seals, pump and tail bushing, street smart reman valve body/tcm, and new torque converter. Flushed the external cooler and blew out with compressed air. Bypassed the radiator cooler and am running just the external oem cooler. Did all the required relearns as well.

The truck shifts through all gears perfectly from a cold start and continues to do so for about 4 miles or until the transmission gets up to temperature (165-185 degrees Fahrenheit). Once it gets to temp it starts to slip into 4th and 5th then shortly after looses 4th and 5th all together. From there you have to use manual 1-3 to get back to the shop. It throws a P0734 Fourth Gear Ratio 1st and if you drive it too long you get a P0735 Fifth Gear Ratio and P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit as well.

A little background on the customer... I quoted her for a used transmission swap but after seeing that the glycol contamination was widespread I offered to rebuild at the same quoted price if the valve body/tcm could be saved. If it couldn't she would have to buy a valve body/tcm which indeed happened in the end. I offered this because she is a family friend and thought I would help as she is a single grandmother with custody of her grandchildren. Bad idea! She doesn't realize anything that I am doing for her and is botching and demanding warranties after the fact. Now that we have this problem it's gotten even worse.

So my main question is.... Does anyone have any idea what the problem is? I have hear that it's common after a rebuild to get a these codes with flare up from 3-4 with a neutral 5th if the input shaft seals were not installed correctly. It seems a lot of rebuilders use 47re or VW 09G sealing rings on the input shaft instead of oem due to the possibility of damage while installing or leave the original seals on the input shaft alone if not damaged.

My second question is about interchange/compatibility between the RE5R05A transmissions. Since I only charged her for a used transmission the fastest fix may be to buy a used transmission. The only way this will make since money wise is if I can use a RE5R05A from a G35 or such that only cost $300-400 with low miles. I saw a post from a guy who put a 2008 G35 trans in his 2006 Pathfinder. He said all he had to do was use his original valve body/tcm (I have a brand new already programmed), swap the bell housings, swap the tail shaft housing, and flip the shift shaft and rooster comb from the driver to passenger side. He used the g35 torque converter and said it worked like a charm. I'm trying to find out if this is really all that needs to be done and which year g35s will work. What about other RE5R05A transmission? What is required for them to swap? I'm shooting more towards the cheaper versions ie g35, 350z, etc but will take into on all of them. I think this would be a better option then trying to replace the input shaft seals and possibly end up in the same place again.

Once I get her happily gone I can dig further into the problem with the rebuild slowly and then find a vehicle with a bad trans to put it in and keep/sell.

I really appreciate all your help and any info you can give me. I know there was a guy on here years ago that was the go to for these RE5R05A swap questions but not sure if he is still around. Thanks again in advance!!!
 
Yes it CAN work but the RE5R05A was notoriously weak in the early Z's and G's and they like other Nissans of the era they to could suffer from contamination through the radiator and integrated trans cooler specifically if they were damaged in a front impact or if the coolant wasn't changed as required, bringing you right back to square one. Unless it's coming out of a car that runs and drives and you can test it you are taking a shot in the dark taking a used auto transmission out of any early Z/G car. Then there is the force multiplier if you will of how those cars were/are often driven. The FX50 got a beefed up version that can work with mods but are expensive. I wish I could be more helpful.
 
I assume you used aftermarket Stepped PTFE Sealing Rings on the Turbine Shaft??

If so.....
*Take some vinyl electrical tape (3M super 33) & tightly wrap the rings to the shaft. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes.
*Carefully remove the tape.
*Liberally apply some TransJel to the rings & the inside of the Stator Support with an acid brush (Don't apply pressure to them with your fingers!).
*Test fit the Pump/Stator Support onto the Turbine Shaft/Input Clutch Housing.
*Remove the Pump & inspect the rings.....If good.....Put the Pump back on 'till your ready to install the Input Clutch.
*As a final check.....Omit the Pump to Case O-ring, Slip the pump down into the case, Then pull it back off & inspect the rings again.
*Final assemble with the Pump to Case O-ring in place.

Of course you will need to inspect the frictions for distress & replace as needed.

In my opinion....It would be cheaper to fix the trans than buying unknown core. I know from first hand experience that this stuff is frustrating.....However FIXING your mistakes helps you grow as a Mechanic!
 
I wish I could help. I definitely feel for you bomber, or any other tech in this situation with a customer.

I can see why techs would want to replace instead of repair, at least with a replacement, you've got some recourse with the vendor.
 
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