Recommend oil for new car (2007 Honda Civic Si)

[jthoske]

I picked a 2007 Honda Civic Si Sedan about a month ago. I'm just shy of 2000 miles, and still using the oil that came with the car. I live in Chicago, so we have all 4 seasons. This car will be daily driven throughout all 4 seasons.

First off, there is a maintenance minder that shows me oil life. It currently reads 70%. All of the information I can find on Civic Si specific and Honda websites tell me to change the oil when it reaches 15% or every 12 months, whichever is sooner. Since this is a new engine, there is always tons of debate on how long to leave the oil in it that came with the car. My manual specifies the oil is specifically formulated to promote proper engine break-in.

First: When should I change the oil? I thought I read somewhere the proper first oil change was 3,750. Now all I can find is "when the Maintenance Minder reads 15%".

Second: Is there a better oil to use than Mobil 1 5w30 that is still cost effective? This car is daily driven, probably 50/50 balance between economic and spirited driving. I've used Mobil 1 in my wife's car and overall have been satisfied with it. She doesn't drive a high-revving vtec-enabled 4-cyl though. I think I'd like to stick to a synthetic oil to make use of elongated change intervals.

Thanks for the comments/suggestions!

 

[buster]

I'd leave oil in for 5k to start. All oils are good today. If synthetic, I would chose Amsoil, PP or M1 in that order. I prefer Amsoil.

 

[Steelhead]

if this is a new car, Honda recommends not changing the breakin OEM factory oil for a specified mileage period depending on model and engine

extremely important to keep all purchase and service records of oil changes and any other work done on car by Honda shop, any independent shop and you. detailed records are important in warranty claims
any SM rated 5w20 or 0w20 oil will serve you well in the Chicago cold winters and the hot summer traffic jams. pick whatever is on sale in your area and buy in quantity, at least a case at a time, same with filters
we are quickly approaching $3 a qt mineral oil and $10 a qt. syn PAO/esters
just follow the owners manual on oil changes or call your local Honda service dept.

 

[Steelhead]

whatever you do, do NOT take it to the local Junky Flub oil change shop for a quickie

 

[Pablo]

First run 10-15% on the OLM will be fine. I almost forgot the Si 2.0L calls for 5W-30 (so used to 5W-20 for Honda).

I would use AMSOIL (XLF) 5W-30 and follow the OLM for the first 3 or 4 times.
Then when you see how conservative it (the OLM) is, step up to:
AMSOIL (ASL) 5W-30
or
AMSOIL (SSO) 0W-30 Signature series

And simply reset it....as you like. I use EAO oil filters but another quality filter will work.

 

[jthoske]

Quote:

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whatever you do, do NOT take it to the local Junky Flub oil change shop for a quickie

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This would be the last thing I would do. I've never had anyone change my oil in any of my cars except once or twice. The Walmart in my hometown changed my oil twice, and I knew everyone that worked there, so it was pretty legit.

Thanks for the quick recommendations!

I'll look into the cost of Amsoil and its availability in my area. More than likely I'll be stocking up for at least 2-3 oil changes.

Can anyone recommend a good oil filter? I've been debating sticking to an OEM filter, which I can buy discounted in bulk online. Another thought was the HAMP Synergy filter. It's supposed to increase oil pressure by 5psi and is what is used on European and JDM Civic Type R's.

 

[Pablo]

Quote:

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I'll look into the cost of Amsoil and its availability in my area. More than likely I'll be stocking up for at least 2-3 oil changes.

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No better price that becoming a Preferred Customer (PC) from a site sponsor such as myself. Also the proceeds help support this site. Delivery from your local warehouse is within a day or two or you may order and pick-up at the Wood Dale, Il warehouse and pay zero freight.

 

[jthoske]

Can you explain "EAO filters?"

Sorry, I've always used Walmart's Supertech brand or Ac Delco (previously always had GM cars...first Honda)

 

[Crusader]

Congrats on the Si!

I've been toying with buying the Si sedan myself.

Anyhow . . . for warranty issues alone I would stick with the OEM spec filter. For issues of economy I'd buy the 5 quart jug of M1 SUV 5w-30 for $21.xx or so, tad better than regular M1 5w-30 for less money in 5 quart jug. Sometimes less on roll back @ China Mart.

I would not use a Super-tech filter on a new Si. I question the by-pass dependability. I would not use the 5 psi boost filter seems odd to me.

I admit Amsoil is a better oil than M1 SUV however factor in the price difference and change out the M1 sooner. Drive happy.

If you want to do near full length drains according to the sensor sport the $25+ and send off a UOA sample. I wonder if anybody has done a UOA on the factory fill Honda oil? Would be interesting to see.

Also wondering what kind of MPG numbers you have been returning? 32 mpg hwy? Looking for more convincing data to justify my purchase.

PM me for a mailing address and I will cut open your OEM filter for no charge and I will email you full resolution pictures of the goodies the filter trapped. I just bought a aviation filter cutter and I'm going nuts with the stock pile of filters I've saved up.

 

[jthoske]

I ordered the UOA sample kit from Blackstone Labs. I planned on doing that when I changed my oil for the first time.

What exactly is "SUV" M1, I haven't picked up on all the acronyms yet, I guess

--------------------------------

The MPG I am seeing is proportional to how much I use the vtec cam. Daily driving I'm usually shifting between 3000-4000rpm, and I see 24-26mpg. I commute ~20mi one way to work, in Chicago traffic. Mix of city stop/go, expressway speed, and expressway stop/go. I've only had it out of the suburbs on a "true" highway situation once, where I saw roughly 30mpg. I was driving about 75mph, and was running the AC.

Overall, I'm satisfied with the mileage. It's frugal enough that I can justify my purchase with the rising gas prices, but its also a very peppy little daily driver.


CollegehillsHonda has the OEM Honda filters for ~$5, so I might just go that route. I think they are < $8-9 at the dealership.

 

[VK56VD]

Congrats on the new car. I'd run my factory oil until the oil change reminder reads 15%. Than I would do two or three short oci (oil change intervals)on conventional oil such as castrol gtx, pennzoil yellow bottle, or valvoiline, maybe every 2k miles to get any shavings and factory gunk that may be floating around from the assembly out. By that time the car should read over 10k where I would switch over to a high quality synthetic if you plan to rev that Si engine the way it was intended. I'd use Amsoil or any other decent full synthetic and run 5-7.5k OCI or every 6 months.

This is the way I'm breaking in our Honda Pilot engine to ensure long lasting reliability with zero oil consumption-some have reported oil cnsumption problems if switching to synthetic early in many new vehicles that do not come with synthetic fill from the factory.

 

[VK56VD]

I also want to add that I'd use any oil filter on sale for the fist two OCI while the car is running on conventional and than switch over to a quality filter such as Mobil 1, Purlotor Premium, Wix.

Also, don't forget to not neglect other fluids and switch to synthetic if possible such as transmission, differential (if applicable), and brake fluid. I'd switch all the factory fluids out after 30k.

 

[VK56VD]

in the above post I meant purolator Pure one filter not purolator premium

 

[ThirdeYe]

What I would do:
Change your factory fill at 2,000 miles.
Run another short interval of 2,000-3,000 miles.
Switch to synthetic or conventional of your choice, following the OLM.

Good luck with your new car, the Si is a sweet ride!

Oh, and regarding the HAMP filters, they're great. I have 4 in my stash right now (had 5 but gave one to another Integra driving friend of mine). According to my untrained eye, they're identical to the old Honda A01 Filtech filters, except for the use of the silicon adbv. They're also the exact same size:

 

[televascular]

I have an '06 Civic Si, and I can relate with the worries you have. I've been using M1 5W-30 since the first oil change, coupled with HAMP Synergy filters. Currently, I'm at ~35,000 miles; My ScanGaugeII tells me I average 28-29 MPG with 70% town/suburbs and 30% highway. I only hit VTEC about once a day, so I consider myself a conservative Si driver.

I got the HAMP filters for a decent bulk price from ICB Motorsport, though I can't tell you I notice a difference from the stock Honda blue filters. They claim more oil pressure, premium filter medium, etc., but how can you know unless you cut filters and compare UOAs?

Anyway. The K20 craves thin oils. I had a lot of consumption during break-in (about 1 quart over 5,000mi), but after 10k, the consumption nearly stopped. I only add about 1/10th quart every 5k to top off. M1 is working out great, UOAs show no problems at all. Though I would give more credit to Honda's engineering than Mobil's oil.

Next oil change, I'm gonna make the switch to ASL (Amsoil's 5W-30) and when I run out of HAMPs, I'm not buying them again. Ideally, I would run 0W-30, but this new SSO seems too expensive and is not too different from the ASL. And in truth, the difference between 5W-30 and 0W-30 is minute.

What you should be most concerned about is the transmission's notchiness and reluctance to shift into 2nd and 3rd at high rpms. Switch to Amsoil Synchromesh MTF as soon as possible! Just trust me! This has become almost common knowledge on every dedicated Si forum.

Enjoy your Si! Over the past two years, I've learned everything there is to know about the FG2/FA5, so feel free to ask me if you have any questions.

 

[Crusader]

Your mpg numbers are about what I would expect. What rpm is your engine turning at 70 mph?

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Truck_SUV_5W30.aspx

There is also a posting in the VOA or UOA comparing the numbers of all 3 flavors of M1 5w-30 oils "Regular", SUV & "EP" but I can't find now. Regardless the 5 quart jug of M1 SUV 5w-30 @ Wal-mart is the most cost effective way to buy any the M1 5w-30's at this time.

I beg to differ with one of the posters here.

I would not use ANY cheapie filter with any oil that has a questionable constriction especially in regards to the by-pass mechanism. I'd stick with the OEM until the warranty expires. I seriously doubt anything will go wrong with any other better made filters but why have any possible warranty hassle when you paid or paying good money on such worthy engine. Ironically my local Honda garage used Napa silver filters for cars out of warranty.

I currently run NAPA golds, Puralator Premium and PureONEs on occasion as well as Toyota OEM filter on my 22r powered truck for timing chain issues.

 

[TurboTravis]

Here we go again...

Go to Walmart, and pick whatever proper grade oil is cheapest and change it at the factory recommended interval. The engine in that car will outlast everything else.

T

 

[jthoske]

Quote:

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Your mpg numbers are about what I would expect. What rpm is your engine turning at 70 mph?

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil1_Truck_SUV_5W30.aspx

There is also a posting in the VOA or UOA comparing the numbers of all 3 flavors of M1 5w-30 oils "Regular", SUV & "EP" but I can't find now. Regardless the 5 quart jug of M1 SUV 5w-30 @ Wal-mart is the most cost effective way to buy any the M1 5w-30's at this time.

I beg to differ with one of the posters here.

I would not use ANY cheapie filter with any oil that has a questionable constriction especially in regards to the by-pass mechanism. I'd stick with the OEM until the warranty expires. I seriously doubt anything will go wrong with any other better made filters but why have any possible warranty hassle when you paid or paying good money on such worthy engine. Ironically my local Honda garage used Napa silver filters for cars out of warranty.

I currently run NAPA golds, Puralator Premium and PureONEs on occasion as well as Toyota OEM filter on my 22r powered truck for timing chain issues.

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Engine RPM is ~3k I believe. I can't remember really, haha.

 

[Camu Mahubah]

 

[Camu Mahubah]

If you choose Amsoil, buy from a site sponsor. The XLF is a good value if you become a preferred customer. Currently it is $4.55 a quart. It gets cheaper if you buy a gallon. So how many quarts do you need? The reason I recommend Amsoil XLF is because you are going to be using the factory OLM. If you run the Amsoil XL you will be able to run it down to 15% with confidence.