Honda Bottled 0w20 vs M1 AFE 0W30 - 1.5T

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Hey guys

Mostly highway driven , 6 speed 2017 civic hatch with 190,000KM (~120,000mi). Run Maint. Minder to 50% for change (approx 8000km - 5000mi)

Torn between The bottled honda stuff im currently running, or switching up to the M1 AFE. Will the 0w30 M1 be ok for turbo GDI stuff, any downside?

Car is operated in Ontario Canada.

Shortest daily trip, 40km round trip twice a day (twice a week)
Longest daily trip, 160km round trip once (three times a week)

 

[JavierH19]

No issue using afe 0w-30. Not a high saps oil though in the US we can get m1 esp 0w-30 instead for a couple bucks more and it's better as far as blending goes. afe is known to shear to a 20 pretty quick and doesn't have euro approvals. Are there any other 0w-30's available. It's not bad but it wouldn't be the first choice for many on here unless it's the only option. It does get chilly where you're at, -20f if I'm not mistaken. You can also use any euro rated 20 grades.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...9Sx4RhX2lIaAu0zEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=53

This one

 

[factorytuned2012]

Which is more cost efficient. Why not Mobil 1 AFE 0W20? 30wt won’t do anything better

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

Castrol Edge 5W30 - SP rated?

Looking for something more robust for higher mileage, and fuel dilution issues?

 

[JavierH19]

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...9Sx4RhX2lIaAu0zEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=53

This one

Yeah that's the one though the price difference is bigger so it's your call.

Any issues with a solid 5w30?

As for ther being any issues with a 5w-30 there's none. It could start a tad harder in the lowest of winter temps but I'm sure it will still start anyway. It'd be the battery that makes the bigger difference.

If I had to choose between M1 afe 0w-30 and M1 regular full synthetic 5w-30 given that they're the same price I think I'd rake reg full syn 5w-30 but esp 0w-30 would be a great choice for cold weather starts.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/...e-motor-oil-4-73-l-0289450p.html?rq=motor+oil

 

[Oillover]

Any issues with a solid 5w30?

No.
I've been alternating between 5w30 and 10w30 on my 1.5 DI (non turbo) Honda as well.
A 5/10w30 would also be more shear stable as it ages through the OCI.

My car is also spec'd for 0w20 from Honda in the N. American maintenance manuals.

 

[parshisa]

i'm running any 5w30 available to me at low cost. last few OCI it was 5w30 PPPP. Just had an oil change with 5w30 Quaker State Ultimate. Usually run 4-5k miles OCI.

 

[twX]

The Mobil 1 is probably the better oil. It meets dexos1 Gen3, which is a pretty stringent spec.

I wouldn't use a euro xW-30. Most of them are much thicker than a 0W-20. They generally have more additives and are better for extended OCIs, but you're changing the oil at 50% of the maintenance minder.

I'd use a 0W-20 in the coldest months, and an API 5W-30 the rest of the year if you feel the need to use a thicker grade. A 5W-30 will be more shear stable than a 0W-30, and the 0W-30 will have more VII, which is associated with valve deposits.

A 5W-30 year-round would also be acceptable in your climate, but a 0W is probably still better for the engine in the winter.

 

[kschachn]

The Mobil 1 is probably the better oil. It meets dexos1 Gen3, which is a pretty stringent spec.

I wouldn't use a euro xW-30. Most of them are much thicker than a 0W-20. They generally have more additives and are better for extended OCIs, but you're changing the oil at 50% of the maintenance minder.

I'd use a 0W-20 in the coldest months, and an API 5W-30 the rest of the year if you feel the need to use a thicker grade. A 5W-30 will be more shear stable than a 0W-30, and the 0W-30 will have more VII, which is associated with valve deposits.

A 5W-30 year-round would also be acceptable in your climate, but a 0W is probably still better for the engine in the winter.

So you wouldn’t use it because it’s better?

 

[JavierH19]

So you wouldn’t use it because it’s better?

Maybe just a typo. There are different types of polymers that can be used in oil, not sure if twx knows of that but I'm sure the euro approvals test for valve deposits so a higher vii oil could perform better than a lower vii oil if the polymers are better in that regard though I don't know for certain. I assume they know what they're doing and have thought of that. Or at least I hope so.

 

[Glenda W.]

I also prefer the M1 ESP 0w30. Robust additive package, better approvals, and better base oils with high virgin oxidation(ester). AFE is for someone looking for fuel efficiency and a resource conserving oil over all else.

 

[CarbonSteel]

M1 ESP 0W-30 has held up very well to the fuel dilution that happens with my 2.7L in my Bronco. My UOAs have been good as compared to Motorcraft 5W-30. I am likely going to use in my new Grand Cherokee which also has a fair amount of dilution.

ESP is a solid oil.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I wouldn't use a euro xW-30. Most of them are much thicker than a 0W-20.

Well...they would be simply because they are in different viscosity classes.

xW-20 = 5.6 to 9.3 cSt @ 100C
xW-30 = 9.3 to 12.2 cSt @ 100C

Since it appears that Honda allows for a 10W-30, I would not hesitate to use a "euro" 0W-30. **Most** 10W-30 oils are about 11.0 cSt so it is not a big stretch to go to ESP which is 12.2 cSt.

https://www.machinerylubrication.co...cates the ease,orifice on the testing device.

 

[lastofthebreed_ws6]

So what I’m reading here is the M1 ESP 0w30 would be subtitle for a Canadian year round 5000 mi OCI

Even though there is no API rating on this oil, it would be ok in regards to LSPI and deposits / turbos etc

 

[CarbonSteel]

So what I’m reading here is the M1 ESP 0w30 would be subtitle for a Canadian year round 5000 mi OCI

Even though there is no API rating on this oil, it would be ok in regards to LSPI and deposits / turbos etc

I am running it year-round in Colorado. Based upon what I saw in a few ESP PDS sheets, it meets or exceeds requirements for API SP, but does not for ILSAC GF-6--but I would opine that is because at 12.2 cSt, it is not considered a "fuel savings" oil. With that said, given the approvals that it has from MB, Porsche, and VW, I say use with confidence as all of those manufacturers have turbo-charged vehicles. My 2.7L is twin-turbo.

https://www.mobil.com/en-in/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/sp-xx-mobil-1-esp-0w-30

https://360.lubrizol.com/Specifications/ACEA-Passenger/ACEA-2021/ACEA-C3-21

 

[Revving2Redline]

Which is more cost efficient. Why not Mobil 1 AFE 0W20? 30wt won’t do anything better

I would still rather have it Shear down to a 20 weight then start as a 20 weight and then sheer down

 

[Oillover]

I would still rather have it Shear down to a 20 weight then start as a 20 weight and then sheer down

Especially on a turbo/DI engine.

 

[twX]

Well...they would be simply because they are in different viscosity classes.

xW-20 = 5.6 to 9.3 cSt @ 100C
xW-30 = 9.3 to 12.2 cSt @ 100C

Since it appears that Honda allows for a 10W-30, I would not hesitate to use a "euro" 0W-30. **Most** 10W-30 oils are about 11.0 cSt so it is not a big stretch to go to ESP which is 12.2 cSt.

There's a bigger difference in terms of HTHS, which is more relevant to the engine than KV. The HTHS of a euro xW-30 is 35% higher than a 0W-20. That's greater than the difference between a 0W-16 and a 5W-30 API oil, so it could be thought of as being over 2 grades thicker than the 0W-20, and more than a grade thicker than an API 5W-30.

 

[CarbonSteel]

There's a bigger difference in terms of HTHS, which is more relevant to the engine than KV. The HTHS of a euro xW-30 is 35% higher than a 0W-20. That's greater than the difference between a 0W-16 and a 5W-30 API oil, so it could be thought of as being over 2 grades thicker than the 0W-20, and more than a grade thicker than an API 5W-30.

Does it really matter given that Honda specs a 10W-30 for use? I think not. If they only spec'ed xW-20 it might matter, but even then, what's going to happen?