scorching 100+ degree weather isnt doing my paint any good so i am highly considering purchasing a buffer to polish/wax my cars. Do you guys have any recommendations? something under 50 bucks
recommend me a decent buffer
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Can't help
You'll have to buy pads and a decent backing plate for it, but whatever buffer you buy you're gonna at least have buy pads.
It's an dual action which makes it kinda idiot proof for the not-quite-expert detailer. Much more forgiving when it comes to burning through the paint.
You'll have to buy pads and a decent backing plate for it, but whatever buffer you buy you're gonna at least have buy pads.
It's an dual action which makes it kinda idiot proof for the not-quite-expert detailer. Much more forgiving when it comes to burning through the paint.
For $50 you'll get a wax spreader. You are better off applying and removing by hand. I suggest finding products that are more friendly towards hand application and removal.
If you want to purchase a machine, $150 will get you a Meguiars G110v2, which is a great DA machine. $300 will get you a Flex 3401XRG, which is what I have. For both of these machines, you'll need to spend an additional $100 on enough pads.
If you want to purchase a machine, $150 will get you a Meguiars G110v2, which is a great DA machine. $300 will get you a Flex 3401XRG, which is what I have. For both of these machines, you'll need to spend an additional $100 on enough pads.
What products are you trying to apply? My only reccomendation for your price range is a unit with a smaller head. Sears has a 7 inch polisher for $40.
I would also look at switching to spring/fall for your major detailing. You could apply a easy to use product now until cooler weather. Turtlewax Ice is very easy to apply and is very quick to remove. It is available almost everywhere and costs considerably less then a buffer at $16. There are several other products on the market that would also fit the bill just not as readily available. You should be able to apply and remove Ice in about 15-20 minutes or less depending on the size of the vehicle.
http://www.turtlewax.com/img/0309video_newicepolish.jpg
I would also look at switching to spring/fall for your major detailing. You could apply a easy to use product now until cooler weather. Turtlewax Ice is very easy to apply and is very quick to remove. It is available almost everywhere and costs considerably less then a buffer at $16. There are several other products on the market that would also fit the bill just not as readily available. You should be able to apply and remove Ice in about 15-20 minutes or less depending on the size of the vehicle.
http://www.turtlewax.com/img/0309video_newicepolish.jpg
I have a cheap buffer I'll sell you....
If you want waxing to be really easy, Mothers FX SynWax can basically be applied over th entire car, allowed to dry, and buffed with a beach towel in all of 10 minutes. It's the easiest to apply wax I've used. But I prefer to do that by hand.
I don't have a good buffer, I just have a cheap one and about all it does is spread wax relatively inefficiently.
If you want waxing to be really easy, Mothers FX SynWax can basically be applied over th entire car, allowed to dry, and buffed with a beach towel in all of 10 minutes. It's the easiest to apply wax I've used. But I prefer to do that by hand.
I don't have a good buffer, I just have a cheap one and about all it does is spread wax relatively inefficiently.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If you want to purchase a machine, $150 will get you a Meguiars G110v2, which is a great DA machine. $300 will get you a Flex 3401XRG, which is what I have. For both of these machines, you'll need to spend an additional $100 on enough pads.
What The Critic says should be noted. I've considered going to some kind of buffer, too. No matter what I find for a buffer at what price, they always come with anywhere between two and four pads. What good are so few pads? You'll be lucky to do half the car and then you'll be swearing.
For the time being, at least, I'm sticking to doing it by hand.
If you want to purchase a machine, $150 will get you a Meguiars G110v2, which is a great DA machine. $300 will get you a Flex 3401XRG, which is what I have. For both of these machines, you'll need to spend an additional $100 on enough pads.
What The Critic says should be noted. I've considered going to some kind of buffer, too. No matter what I find for a buffer at what price, they always come with anywhere between two and four pads. What good are so few pads? You'll be lucky to do half the car and then you'll be swearing.
For the time being, at least, I'm sticking to doing it by hand.
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Can't help
You'll have to buy pads and a decent backing plate for it, but whatever buffer you buy you're gonna at least have buy pads.
It's an dual action which makes it kinda idiot proof for the not-quite-expert detailer. Much more forgiving when it comes to burning through the paint.
I've seen videos of the 7424, and I definitely WANT to get one someday.
Can't help
You'll have to buy pads and a decent backing plate for it, but whatever buffer you buy you're gonna at least have buy pads.
It's an dual action which makes it kinda idiot proof for the not-quite-expert detailer. Much more forgiving when it comes to burning through the paint.
I've seen videos of the 7424, and I definitely WANT to get one someday.
If you have older vehicles and if you are willing to experiment and not adverse to risks, buy Harbor Freight rotary. After 20% coupon and sale price, I paid under $25 for mine. It comes with wool type bonnet which is tied over foam pad. You can later purchase 7" aftermarket velcro pads if you want. HF also sell electronic roatry but that is priced higher.
All my cars are over 10 years old. With either Meguair M105 or Ultimate Compound, you can make your paint look like new.
All the snobs will *snicker* their noses at you for buying something from HF for $25 rather than buying "proper" rotary @ $300 and will warn you that you *will* destroy your paint. They have a point but if you are careful and willing to learn on an older vehicle you do not have much to lose.
Please tell me which vehicle you are planning to use the so called buffer. I used mine on my brothers BMW 740iL. I did half of the trunk just to show him what could be achieved. The black paint had lots of swirl marks and random scratches. That paint was also very hard but after multiple passes with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, it came out lot better.
- Vikas
All my cars are over 10 years old. With either Meguair M105 or Ultimate Compound, you can make your paint look like new.
All the snobs will *snicker* their noses at you for buying something from HF for $25 rather than buying "proper" rotary @ $300 and will warn you that you *will* destroy your paint. They have a point but if you are careful and willing to learn on an older vehicle you do not have much to lose.
Please tell me which vehicle you are planning to use the so called buffer. I used mine on my brothers BMW 740iL. I did half of the trunk just to show him what could be achieved. The black paint had lots of swirl marks and random scratches. That paint was also very hard but after multiple passes with Meguiars Ultimate Compound, it came out lot better.
- Vikas
For $50 you get nothing. For $150 and up you can get a machine that will actually do the job. As Critic mentioned you will need to spend more on pads,polishes, microfiber towels,chemicals, and the like. I suggest you look into the Griot's Garage machine. It is the strongest in the price range with a lifetime warranty. If you are not prepared to spend $250-$350 for BASICS then blow it off.
In the price range you mentioned there is nothing that will work, fuhgetaboutit.
In the price range you mentioned there is nothing that will work, fuhgetaboutit.
Rick knows his stuff but I respectfully disagree. Take a look at the following link. Granted that with the backing plate and the pad, the total cost is over $50 *but* Harbor Freight rotary was used which can be purchased for $25. Tru_Shine is a professional detailer. By the way, no way I am suggesting that OP start wet sanding his car 
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-care/...-tru_shine.html
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-care/...-tru_shine.html
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That link was great, but in the second thread the original poster admits that he didn't use the harbor freight rotary to do all of it because it is very difficult for someone new to use a rotary, so he switched over to a (more expensive but easier) forced rotation random orbit to do the final stages.
I'd need an older car to mess with a rotary on. And recently I wet sanded the hood of our Highlander. Yes, I felt more comfortable doing that than using a rotary.
I'd need an older car to mess with a rotary on. And recently I wet sanded the hood of our Highlander. Yes, I felt more comfortable doing that than using a rotary.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Rick knows his stuff but I respectfully disagree. Take a look at the following link. Granted that with the backing plate and the pad, the total cost is over $50 *but* Harbor Freight rotary was used which can be purchased for $25. Tru_Shine is a professional detailer. By the way, no way I am suggesting that OP start wet sanding his car
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-care/...-tru_shine.html
Very good point. I was thinking in terms of a random orbital but should have said so. A rotary really isn't for the beginner as we all know. In skilled hands nothing can compare to it but it can be disastrous for an untrained person.
Rick knows his stuff but I respectfully disagree. Take a look at the following link. Granted that with the backing plate and the pad, the total cost is over $50 *but* Harbor Freight rotary was used which can be purchased for $25. Tru_Shine is a professional detailer. By the way, no way I am suggesting that OP start wet sanding his car
http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-care/...-tru_shine.html
Very good point. I was thinking in terms of a random orbital but should have said so. A rotary really isn't for the beginner as we all know. In skilled hands nothing can compare to it but it can be disastrous for an untrained person.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
...it is very difficult for someone new to use a rotary, so he switched over to a (more expensive but easier) forced rotation random orbit to do the final stages.
I agree. Rotarys are a less forgiving for a newbie. I'd suggest spend a little more money on a PorterCable. I've had amazing results with Chemical Guys line! It is easy to over accessorize. You just need a couple good pads, clay, cleaner/rubbing compound, polish, wax.
Try to stay away from combo products (such as cleaner waxes) so that way you can really do blemish correction.
...it is very difficult for someone new to use a rotary, so he switched over to a (more expensive but easier) forced rotation random orbit to do the final stages.
I agree. Rotarys are a less forgiving for a newbie. I'd suggest spend a little more money on a PorterCable. I've had amazing results with Chemical Guys line! It is easy to over accessorize. You just need a couple good pads, clay, cleaner/rubbing compound, polish, wax.
Try to stay away from combo products (such as cleaner waxes) so that way you can really do blemish correction.
Porter Cable 7424
I've been very happy with my PC 7424. You're more likely to hurt the paint by dropping the unit on the car than by product/pad choice. The learning curve is not steep at all with a 7424 and similar machines, such as the Griots and Megs DA polishers.
Pick a kit and get busy:
http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html
Pick a kit and get busy:
http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html
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