Rebuilt engine time...let's fill it the BITOG way!

[occupant]

If all is to be believed on this site so far in my searches, then in a few weeks when I put this rebuilt 351M Ford engine in my car, I should add the following to the crankcase:

Mobil 1
Joe Gibbs Racing Oil
CompCams or AC-Delco break-in additive
Marvel Mystery Oil
Lube Control
Valvoline 40-weight racing oil (for ZDDP)

That's all joking and in fun but here's the plan. I want to use a dino oil for break-in, 10W40 is recommended in the owner's manual for my 1976 model car (this is also a 1976 model engine going in) for temperatures I'll see here in Texas (ambient over 90, it is summer here, you know) and I may switch to 10W30 for winter driving but it'll never get under -10 here so no sense even touching 5W30. Anyway, that goes in along with some kind of break-in additive. I am buying this engine from someone who bought it off a friend who bought it from a mechanic shop when the customer didn't pay. So I don't know if the cam was changed in this rebuild or not. But the two things I do know is the crank was machined (marked 10/10), the pistons and rings are new (the box from NAPA says so, allegedly), and the block was claimed to be bored .030" over, so I know I need SOMETHING.

But my question is would it be appropriate to use an HDEO for break-in instead? I can get any number of brands of 15W40 HDEO from say, Wal-Mart. Delo 400, Delvac 1300, Rotella, Motorcraft, whatever. Would that be more appropriate and allow me to skip the break-in additive? Or would the HDEO *AND* the break-in additive (AC Delco, CompCams, whatever) be the best choice?

 

[Colt45ws]

HDEO

 

[pidster]

You should have it broken in quite well before winter if getting her on the road in a few weeks stays on schedule (I know, I know never assume that lol) So i doubt you'd need any 30 weights. As others have said any good quality HDEO will give all the protection you need and usually for a better price.

What are you thinking of running after breakin/how will the car be used primarily?

I'd say Rotella 15w40 summer and rotella T6 5w40 for winter sounds like a good bet, and older design motor (carb'd I assume) you would want to change oil fairly often especially if it's not going to be an everyday highway commuter.

Nice ride BTW love Gran Torino's.

Get some pics up!

 

[expat]

A 15w-40 of your choice, you cant go wrong!
Are we talking Starsky and Hutch Grand Torino?

 

[Gene K]

We run Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 in the 1973 Torino with the 351C. The 10W-40 of the era became a 30 weight very fast due to shredding of the VII.

 

[Mustang Man]

Originally Posted By: occupant
{SNIP}for temperatures I'll see here in Texas (ambient over 90, it is summer here, you know) and I may switch to 10W30 for winter driving but it'll never get under -10 here so no sense even touching 5W30.{SNIP}

There is more to it than just winter. 5w flows quicker not only in cold but at start up. 0w is even better. 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w-30 are pretty much all the same weight at operating temperature as compared to a single brand. Most wear occurs at start up so it is best to use something that flows quickly. JMO.

 

[Rob_Roy]

As I recall, the 351M and 400 engines were known to be pretty rough on bearings and have low oil pressure. 15w40 would be my choice for break-in, and depending on bearing clearances, a 10w30 or 15w40 after that.

 

[mechanicx]

Weren't they also known to flat spot cams? I would be careful on the cam break-in. And would run HD 15W40 or Rotella 10W30 T5.

 

[Boss302fan]

In TX, I would use VR1 20W50 for the first 500 miles then go with Joe Gibbs 15W50 Hot Rod oil. I just did it in a $25K Boss motor and it runs great.

 

[jazeo]

Forgive me, but why all the high end suggestions? There isn't any indication it's anything but a stock rebuild. 30 over means nothing more than the block was probably salvaged rather than tossing it. "bored .030" over, so I know I need SOMETHING"

Use any brand break in lube with any brand multi grade oil 30 or 40 weight, change it after 100 miles or so and then use anything you like...

 

[J. A. Rizzo]

Originally Posted By: jazeo
Forgive me, but why all the high end suggestions? There isn't any indication it's anything but a stock rebuild. 30 over means nothing more than the block was probably salvaged rather than tossing it. "bored .030" over, so I know I need SOMETHING"

Use any brand break in lube with any brand multi grade oil 30 or 40 weight, change it after 100 miles or so and then use anything you like...


This is exactly what I would do too. The AC Delco break in additive is good stuff. If you're worried about the cam, use an SL oil or add ZDDP somehow, but any 10W-30 will be fine. 5W or 0W may be too volatile for your application in Texas summer heat.

 

[addyguy]

15W-40 HDEO, year-round, would be an excellent choice for this engine going forward.

Frequent changes, rather than using a high-end oil, IMO are going to be the best friend to this engine. A 1970's carb'd V-8 will put more gas in the oil than anything, so you want to get that OUT on a regular basis!

 

[occupant]

May I have permission to smack the person on the Torino forum who suggested I do the cam break-in with "any non-detergent 30W oil"?

It won't cost me much more to use a 15W40 HDEO than a regular 10W40 oil. The 5-quart Motorcraft HDEO is $11.50. 5-quarts of SuperTech runs $9.50 and the other HDEO's are in the $10 range but they're only gallon sized. Most HDEO's come in gallons instead of 5qt jugs. That WAS my only other concern I had, was having to buy a gallon AND a quart, or 2 gallons. At least the Motorcraft will work ok in that format.

There could be a non-stock cam in this engine. I don't have any idea. So I'm going to assume there is and run some break-in additive. Rizzo claims the AC Delco stuff is good (is that something I'd need to get at a GM dealer?), and I'm only aware of that and the CompCams stuff they sell at Summit. What other brands are out there? What would I typically find at OReilly or AutoZone or NAPA?

A quick check of Summit's catalog shows CompCams ($11), Redline ($13), Lucas ($16), TrickFlow ($10), GM Performance Plus EOS Additive ($18), and a wee 4oz bottle of Crower ZDDPlus ($10). If the GM stuff is the best, I'll gladly pay the $18. Otherwise, any reason the CompCams stuff wouldn't work fine?

 

[jazeo]

To keep it simple why not just use the Lucas, AAP has it for I think $13.99

If it came from a reputable engine builder I'm sure he used plenty of assembly lube while installing the cam and lifters anyway. Just to be safe use the Lucas it will be fine..

 

[mechtech2]

Stock oil pump? No upgrades to this area?
I'd use an oil additive for break in -there are plenty to choose from.
The HDEO will be fine, depending on how the engine was put together.
Old style 40 weights used back when that engine was new were kinda lousy. A 10-30 version would be my choice for now, but who knows how tight the engine was set up?
If you run it hard, the 5-40 or 15-40 may be OK.

 

[440Magnum]

If it were mine, I'd break it in on a 10w30 HDEO (Rotella, for example). The only additional additive I'd want is whatever assembly lubricant the camshaft manufacturer recommends- that is the most critical assembly lubricant in the engine.

After break-in, I'd probably aim for a synthetic 5w40 HDEO, either M1 TDT or Shell Rotella T6.

 

[mechanicx]

I think you are on the right track. Use GM EOS on break-in and run HD 15W40. That should give you the best bang for the buck protection. Oh yeah don't run non-detergent, non-additive oil like Accel in anything, not even a lawnmower lol.

 

[addyguy]

Fram has an oil stabilizer that announces it contains extra ZDDP. It's also very thin, I'd guess a 30-weight.

Don't forget good 'ole STP blue bottle - yeah, everyone hates it, but it does have something like 2,000ppm of zinc in it, which will provide a small boost to a sump.

 

[occupant]

Awesome. A good discussion to brainstorm is what I needed.

The Motorcraft 15W40 should do fine then with the GM EOS. I'll run that for 1000 miles and then change it out for more MC 15W40 but this time with a bottle of the blue STP instead of GM EOS. I'll use the blue STP with the MC 15W40 for the next two oil changes (4000, 7000) at as well, and then run a UOA to determine if the STP is needed any longer.

As long as they keep making 5-quart bottles of MC 15W40, I'll be good, right? This 351M takes 4 quarts and the filter another pint, leaving me a pint to top off with in between *if* needed. I'm hoping whoever built this motor did a good job. It's not like I have Tim Meyer under my porch or Jon Kaase running the counter at the local Auto Value store. But if it was done ok, I'll be in good shape.

 

[addyguy]

I'd just use the MC 15W-40 and the STP for your first 1k mile run - it's just a cheaper option than the GM EOS for such a short drain. That combo will still have lots of protecting additive in it.

In these kinds of scenarios, for the price, I think STP blue-bottle is hard to beat.