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Where IS it popular?
Reasonable Cost of Brake Fluid Flush?
- Thread starter tc1446
- Start date
I would just do a gravity bleed yourself. Start at the furthest brake and crack the bleeder. Keep adding to the reservoir. Probably will take a quart to see clean fluid at the rear, maybe a little more. Then do all the other calipers. Probably will take another quart.
Done. Easy. Give your wheels a nice cleaning and rotate your tires since they're off.
I've had rear calipers giving me issues with random dragging, not overheating, just not acting properly and getting hot. 15-year-old car that never had a flush. Gravity bleed solved my issues with both calipers, two years since I did them and no more dragging.
Done. Easy. Give your wheels a nice cleaning and rotate your tires since they're off.
I've had rear calipers giving me issues with random dragging, not overheating, just not acting properly and getting hot. 15-year-old car that never had a flush. Gravity bleed solved my issues with both calipers, two years since I did them and no more dragging.
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It seems like the poster is unable to do that kind of physical work
buy a package of test strips and then you will know if it requires replacement
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About $140 at the local Honda dealership for my wife's '16 CRV...about a month ago. Could have done it myself, but was feeling lazy plus had other things on my plate.
On, some modern vehicles, like my '05 4runner (and '08 Sorento), a DIYer really can't flush the fluid without a special scan tool that can actuate the various pumps....especially, for the rear. If you attempt to do it the traditional way, you may not get any fluid out from the rear (even with a Motive brake fluid pump), but you'll probably be able to on the front. You can thank all those 'nannies' for this...electronic brake force distribution, ABS, traction/stability control, etc. In a sense, the brake fluid has to go through all 'that' before getting to the caliper.
On, some modern vehicles, like my '05 4runner (and '08 Sorento), a DIYer really can't flush the fluid without a special scan tool that can actuate the various pumps....especially, for the rear. If you attempt to do it the traditional way, you may not get any fluid out from the rear (even with a Motive brake fluid pump), but you'll probably be able to on the front. You can thank all those 'nannies' for this...electronic brake force distribution, ABS, traction/stability control, etc. In a sense, the brake fluid has to go through all 'that' before getting to the caliper.
On some vehicles...like my '05 4Runner, you can bypass having a scan tool to actuate the pump for the rear bleed/flush, but it involves pumping up the brakes, turn on the vehicle to turn on the pumps...open the bleeder, flush out....close bleeder, and repeat. PITA.
We just got this in the mail a couple days ago and I shared it with another member who pointed out "drain and fill" the brake fluid. I didn't pay that much attention when I got it.... First thought is they will just suck out fluid and refill the reservoir but who would call doing that a "drain" ? I understand that it's not unheard of for shops to do just that, use a suction to remove the dirty fluid that we can see in the reservoir and replace with new fluid. I hope that's not what they're doing !
The more you get down and up the easier it becomes
PITA job though 4 on the ground, or if you have to take the wheels off. Don't you have any nephews or kids to help you? Get 'em off their phones for a minute.I just did the rear differential fluid on my wife's Subaru as the dealer wanted $131 to do a $37 job - as the car was on the lift having the oil changed. I revel in telling them NO way I'm paying that - that is highway robbery! You gonna make and old man get on the ground?! - Ken
Yep me too. I have learned they take a SET to the axles they are on especiall on IRS. Luckily my current car wears all fours about equally.
No vibration, steers better over time. I even let the tires go soft in the Winter. Better ride and traction. They were about 28 in February and the Hot summer has them up to 34. I have also found letting out too much air fiddling with pressures distort tires and they take a while to recover - if ever.
The only issue I am creating will be wheels stuck to the hubs and seized lugnuts.
No, I watched them. However, I took my first CR-V to a local 'highly rated' shop for its first brake flush...at the time it was a lot cheaper than the dealer...found out why...they only changed the fluid in the reservoir. I think one of the popular Youtubers recommended doing just that...I think it was EricTheCarGuy???
If I recall the video you're referring to, he actually points out that some of his former co-workers/auto techs, did just that and considered it a "brake fluid exchange", to which he disagreed with.
Actually, he did both...see at about 16:50...but he gives his reason why (not sure I agree, but...)
It makes perfect sense to suck out as much old fluid as you can via the reservoir and then use whatever method one prefers to get the remaining fluid out of the brake lines and calipers.
You are probably right Ken, but at nearly 88 YO, my gitty up is about done for. I can still get my leg over the Cam Am three wheeler and ride 200 mi a day (now and then), but the next day I'm wiped out. Worth every bit of it tho. LOLThe more you get down and up the easier it becomes
I just did the rear differential fluid on my wife's Subaru as the dealer wanted $131 to do a $37 job - as the car was on the lift having the oil changed. I revel in telling them NO way I'm paying that - that is highway robbery! You gonna make and old man get on the ground?! - Ken
It's not the brake fluid cost that is affecting total service cost but time and work involved. I wish you had a younger family member to do this for you.
My last two brake fluid changes cost me C$17 and C$20 on the Forte and Sportage with Bosch ESI6-32N fluid.
My last two brake fluid changes cost me C$17 and C$20 on the Forte and Sportage with Bosch ESI6-32N fluid.
That $200 price is about the standard price for a brake fluid flush at a Mercedes dealer. Typically Service A is about $300 and Service B is about $500 and the $200 difference is that with Service B, they flush the brakes. Sometimes you can find online coupons for additional discounts on Mercedes service and usually if you ask a Mercedes dealer, they will accept competitor coupons. Occasionally I still get $150 off $300 service coupons in the mail but I basically don't go because an indy is usually 1/3 to 1/4 the price of a Mercedes dealer so the savings are a mirage.
B service is usually $650-$800 depending on the dealer. Don't forget it also includes the cabin filter and some dealers are including wipers ($75-$150) in their service packages.
Most of the good euro independents are 1/4 less than the dealer if you're lucky.
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Your Honda dealer is an amazing deal ! At those prices they must be busy busy busy
