Rear view mirror adhesive?

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Hi,
I need suggestions on which brands to stay away fron and which seems to be the best.
I haven't had to do this since '97 when I went Toyota.Grandma really needs her mirror on the'91 Escort.
Any prep suggestions would help.
Thank you
RichR
 
I've used the Permatex one with good results - the mirror was still up when I sold the car 4 years later, did Mom's 2 years ago and it's still up. I cleaned the spot where the mirror goes with glass cleaner then acetone.
 
I used many brands, Loctite, Help... many more. Some of them were really expensive. None lasted. But my older Chevy's mirror has some weight and always sits in the sun. This might be the reason. I've also cleaned with acetone.

Original glue was obviously the silicon. But I was afraid to crack the glass because of the thermal caused by the shock from hot silicon. So I tried my chance with transparent bath tube sealing type, chemically set silicon. Didn't played it hard, they won't set enough before 6 hours. But once it sets, it holds. After 3+ yrs, still my car sits is in the sun and it holds tight.

I think other glues are acrylic based for speedy setting, but they are too hard and can't compansate for the vibration and weight of the old GM mirror. I was sick of falling mirrors on the rough roads.

Silicon is much cheaper and I bet it can fix ziilions of mirros before hardening in the tube
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. You only got to wait 6 hours. I played it safe and gave it 24 hrs before attaching the weight. And it looks truly OEM.
 
My brother has a service station and he uses silicon RTV and has had good luck with it. He uses a small dab then holds the mounting plate for the mirror in place on the windshield with some masking tape overnight.

As part of the windshield prep, scrap any old adhesive residue off with a single edge razor blade.

Silicon RTV is a Room Temperature Vulcanizing elastomer ("rubber"). The stuff you get in the hardware store works by absorbing water from the atmosphere to cure. As it cures, it emitts acedic acid vapors, hence the "sharp" smell of RTV curing. Silicon RTV offers good adhesion and is compliant (flexible) offering allowance for the different expansion rates of the windshield glass and the metal base plate, also, the compliance helps it deal with physical vibration.

Typical mirror repair kits use cyanoacrylic (I think that's how it's spelled) adhesive. This stuff is an acrylic monomer that rapidly links into a polymer (cures) when 1. atmospheric oxygen is excluded and 2. in the presence of moisture (it doesn't take much the typical moisture layer on things is enough to cure it). Cyanoacrylics offer excellent adhesion but are fairly ridgid (brittle). BTW, acrylics are soluble in acetone, so acetone is usually a good cleaner for the old adhesive. I'd go the extra step of cleaning the area with alcohol after cleaning with alcohol.

If it were me, I'd try the mirror repair kit first, because it's easy and fast. Prep is critical. Just don't use too much adhesive, this is a case where more is not necessarly better. If I didn't have good luck with the cyanoacrylic, then I'd go the extra step and try the silicon RTV.

[ July 20, 2003, 10:00 PM: Message edited by: Rick in PA ]
 
I really don't know the diffrence between the RTV siicone and the bathtube type one. The only reason I get "household type" was that I couldn't find the an RTV with the translucent white.

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I've always been wondering of that. Thanks Rick!
quote:

The stuff you get in the hardware store works by absorbing water from the atmosphere to cure. As it cures, it emitts acedic acid vapors, hence the "sharp" smell of RTV curing.

 
quote:

Originally posted by Rick in PA:
If it were me, I'd try the mirror repair kit first, because it's easy and fast. Prep is critical. Just don't use too much adhesive, this is a case where more is not necessarly better. If I didn't have good luck with the cyanoacrylic, then I'd go the extra step and try the silicon RTV.

That's the ticket. The cleaner and even a new base is in there. Well worth the extra money. Make sure you read directio0ns carefully. Troughly clean the window on the inside. You will probably not be able to put it exactly where the old one was. Make sure you use a magic marker on the outside of the window so you will know exactly where to position it. I think they tell you to use one drop of glue. I recall that that was not quite enough. I would put on a little extra (in two different locations bc the excess will wipe away. Like I said have all the stuff handy and take your time Let us know how you m ake out.
 
I picked up a tip a while ago to use loctite impruv (pt# 34931). From what I heard it is a industrial strength adheasive made for bonding glass to metal. The packs that are sold in stores at a weaker variation apparently. The sutff is expensive at about $30 for 50ml. I pikce some up because i have some other glass projects to work on. I am waiting to see if it's as good as everyone makes it out to be.
 
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