Rear grinding noise when braking

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 9, 2006
Messages
233
Location
Ohiuh
Vehicle is a 2011 Camry LE, 45k. It is coming from the passenger rear. I don't know if there is a frozen caliper that is the cause or what. It happens upon braking, a constant grinding sound then gets louder, any ideas, I am going to start with turning the rotors and new pads.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Dohc98vteC
any ideas


Yeah stop driving it until it can be inspected. The pads are probably worn down to the rivets and scoring the rotors. Could need new rotors as well as pads.
 
A four year old camry with 45k should not need new rear brakes or rotors.

But: I'd first jack the rear axle up and, with e-brake off, try to spin each wheel. If the pass. side hangs up, then I'd start looking at details like pad thickness, drag a finger across the rotor surface to see wear patterns, and visualize pin boots to see if they are torn and possibly the pins became frozen, keeping the caliper from "floating" as it should and thus causing the pads to bind against the rotor. If "Columbus" = Ohio (a little vague, but likely?), then this becomes more likely.

I think given age/mileage/symptoms the pads are binding, not worn to the pins.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
A four year old camry with 45k should not need new rear brakes or rotors.


That's what I was thinking.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
A four year old camry with 45k should not need new rear brakes or rotors.


That's what I was thinking.


Really? You guys must not work on very many late-model cars. I do rear pads/rotors all the time on cars with well under 45k.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Really? You guys must not work on very many late-model cars. I do rear pads/rotors all the time on cars with well under 45k.


That's the first time you've responded to any of my posts in a very very very long time.

Now I know what to say to ruffle your feathers.
smile.gif
 
When I do a brake job, if I think the calipers are the least bit questionable I'll replace them with rebuilt ones. On a car more than 10 years old I tend to replace them as a matter of course. RockAuto has A-1 Cardone rebuilt calipers for most cars in the $35-45 (each) range, plus core charge. They make it pretty easy to return the cores with a FedEx shipping label that you can download. I've tried rebuilding calipers myself but generally I prefer to get the A-1 rebuilt ones. Good luck to you.
 
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
When I do a brake job, if I think the calipers are the least bit questionable I'll replace them with rebuilt ones. On a car more than 10 years old I tend to replace them as a matter of course.


Thats what i do on my cars as well.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
A four year old camry with 45k should not need new rear brakes or rotors.


That's what I was thinking.


Really? You guys must not work on very many late-model cars. I do rear pads/rotors all the time on cars with well under 45k.


I had to do pads on my 2011 Camry two years ago--no grinding, but rust had gotten in and froze up things, causing one pad to wear prematurely. Three pads with near full material, one almost gone.

So I could believe needing pads (and rotors) at 45k. I'd be peeved but it happens.
 
I wonder if rear brakes are used so lightly the rotors rust over then chew the pads down to nothing.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
When I do a brake job, if I think the calipers are the least bit questionable I'll replace them with rebuilt ones. On a car more than 10 years old I tend to replace them as a matter of course.


Thats what i do on my cars as well.


I always tell myself to do new calipers but I lube the sliders and drive the piston in and out a handful of times and convince myself I'm good.

Then a week later I am replacing calipers because they are sticking
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I always tell myself to do new calipers but I lube the sliders and drive the piston in and out a handful of times and convince myself I'm good.

Then a week later I am replacing calipers because they are sticking

Just recently I was doing the brakes on my Dodge Ram while sipping coffee, and my thoughts turned philosophical.

If you look at how the brake hydraulic system works, when you bleed the brakes you're getting nice, fresh fluid everywhere except down around the caliper piston. Unless you disconnect your old caliper to pour the old fluid out when you do a brake job (who does that?), the fluid inside the caliper body is below the bleeder screw. I imagine the fluid down around the piston tends to get waterlogged and contaminated, and never gets refreshed when bleeding the system.

Whatever the reason, replacing calipers has always served me well. When you replace pads, rotors, and calipers you basically have all new brakes on your old car.
 
As an automotive tech, I also notice the newer car having rear brake done around the 30 -40k mark. Just belive the brake bias is favoring the brake to reduce nose diving. If the pads are wearing uneven, there a capiler issue, ethier the slide is sticking or the piston is sticking, or the pad is stick in the slide track.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Im seeing cars with worn down rear pads at very low milages.they dont seem to last like shoes did.
Cars are using more rear brake bias to help control front end dive and pull. One problem rear disc systems avoid is the non-linear action of rear drums which promotes lockup.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Im seeing cars with worn down rear pads at very low milages.they dont seem to last like shoes did.
Cars are using more rear brake bias to help control front end dive and pull. One problem rear disc systems avoid is the non-linear action of rear drums which promotes lockup.


That was a common complaint on the generation of Jetta I had: short rear brake life, due to the electronic brake distribution. Light braking was done with the rears, so as to limit nose dive. i don't know if the ABS unit is what does the distribution but somehow the rears get pulled first.
 
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I always tell myself to do new calipers but I lube the sliders and drive the piston in and out a handful of times and convince myself I'm good.

Then a week later I am replacing calipers because they are sticking

Just recently I was doing the brakes on my Dodge Ram while sipping coffee, and my thoughts turned philosophical.

If you look at how the brake hydraulic system works, when you bleed the brakes you're getting nice, fresh fluid everywhere except down around the caliper piston. Unless you disconnect your old caliper to pour the old fluid out when you do a brake job (who does that?), the fluid inside the caliper body is below the bleeder screw. I imagine the fluid down around the piston tends to get waterlogged and contaminated, and never gets refreshed when bleeding the system.

Whatever the reason, replacing calipers has always served me well. When you replace pads, rotors, and calipers you basically have all new brakes on your old car.


That is an interesting thought: when doing a flush, pop the caliper off, open the bleeder, press the piston in. Then drain and fill the MC, then attempt to pull fluid through the lines.

Never thought of that.

*

On my Jetta it seemed to need a new caliper every 5 years--the A4 chassis seemed to have a weak spot on those rear calipers. When time came, I checked, and sure enough, one piston was hard to turn, so I replaced both. Front calipers though were original for those 11 years I had it--but they must have been getting close to the end. I really had to crank down on one bleeder the last time I touched it.

Knock on wood though, just did pads&rotors on my Camry, and the rear calipers pressed in just fine.
 
Well, sure enough, metal to metal contact... I guess I am surprised it happened so early, but its my moms car. She does not drive very far at all for work, no easy highway miles in between I guess. I was just curious why we wouldn't have heard the wear indicator like the front has...
 
Originally Posted By: Dohc98vteC
Well, sure enough, metal to metal contact... I guess I am surprised it happened so early, but its my moms car. She does not drive very far at all for work, no easy highway miles in between I guess. I was just curious why we wouldn't have heard the wear indicator like the front has...


Is she older? No offense, but the hearing drops off. My MIL hasn't been able to hear the squeak in the accelerator pedal of her CRV, but the rest of us have been able to for the last 5 or so years.
 
I wouldn't mind pads that wore a little quicker like this. That usually (but not always) means that they're easier on the rotors...if changed before they get to metal, of course!

Our Ridgeline, with 101k miles now, has the factory front brake pads and had the factory rear pads until I replaced them a few months ago. The fronts have at least half of their life left. Folks on the Ridgeline forum report having to change their front pads for the first time at 150k miles. I believe it now.

But the side effect seems to be that they're harder on rotors than they might otherwise be if the pads were softer.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top