Rear brake caliper replacement parts options?

[tiredguy]

Hello

I am working on my sisters 2000 VW Passat FWD that has been sitting for a few years.

I drove it for the last two days and there is a burning smell and a bit of smoke coming from the left rear wheel I suspect the caliper is seized.

What are the recommended brands people are using these day? new or remanufactured ?

Thanks

 

[nwjones18]

If it was me I'd be using whatever was the easiest/cheapest without the hassle of a core charge. May need pads/rotors as well depending on how long its been dragging. Looks like RA has a wholesale closeout reman for $65 no core charge..

 

[Silverado12]

I use NAPA rebuilt calipers and they've been good. No problems.

 

[Lubener]

Hello

I am working on my sisters 2000 VW Passat FWD that has been sitting for a few years.

I drove it for the last two days and there is a burning smell and a bit of smoke coming from the left rear wheel I suspect the caliper is seized.

What are the recommended brands people are using these day? new or remanufactured ?

Thanks

You will get the best selection and price at Rock Auto.

 

[FowVay]

Rockauto has a Pagid branded left rear caliper for $87.99, no core charge. It shows it coming with new slide pins, boots and copper seal gaskets for the brake hose. This is the left side, P/N 8E0 615 423, of course your own research will dictate the correct parts.

But,,, if it were me I'd take the old one apart and clean it and see if I could get it to free up.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Get all-NEW calipers, not reman/rebuilt, as most reman calipers aren't even "rebuilt" properly

Rock Auto has new Pagid calipers at a fair price

 

[2009Caraman]

If its sitting for a bit why not grease the slide pins 1st?

 

[RooflessVW]

Rockauto has a Pagid branded left rear caliper for $87.99, no core charge. It shows it coming with new slide pins, boots and copper seal gaskets for the brake hose. This is the left side, P/N 8E0 615 423, of course your own research will dictate the correct parts.

But,,, if it were me I'd take the old one apart and clean it and see if I could get it to free up.

Pagid should be a decent part. If it’s smoking I would plan on the caliper, pads, rotor, and maybe the wheel bearing.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

I think rebuilt calipers only come from 3 vendors in Mexico. I know that I had trouble with NAPA rebuilt calipers. I had rust belt calipers rebuilds. These butt clowns just went to town grinding off rust scale on the piston and now because its a cone not a cylinder if you get on the brakes it will shoot brake fluid all over.

 

[eljefino]

I'm with Carman, blow it all apart and look for binding stuff. You could also have the pad ears swollen from rust and stuck in the guides.

Since it's been sitting and driven a little, inspect your other rotors inside and out for having the rust scraped off properly.

 

[Rust_Belt_Pete]

Pad ears rusting and jamming and rust jacking of shims is like 1/3rd of brake job causes in the rust belt

 

[xmanjeff]

I'm with Carman, blow it all apart and look for binding stuff. You could also have the pad ears swollen from rust and stuck in the guides.

Since it's been sitting and driven a little, inspect your other rotors inside and out for having the rust scraped off properly.

ya ,where one is being problematic ,others may not be far behind

 

[lbhsbz]

Get a new aftermarket unit. Remans are mostly junk.

 

[dfarr67]

Last I bought for the crap rear calipers on the Honda were Raybestos new- chinesium. But the oem was too expensive for a problematic part and used would be no better than what I had. No complaints.

 

[tiredguy]

Rock Auto has a new PAGID for $89 I think this is the best route to go, considering a reman just a little less

 

[tiredguy]

so yesterday I bled the rear brakes alot, got new fluid all the way back, did both sides. I tapped a hammer on the caliper body, rotor and pads on the left rear, this is the side that is getting hot. I also took an infrared thermometer to the rotor after driving and the side that was getting hot was around 350F or so, the other side was around 150F, the fronts were around 130F.

I had the rear jacked up to bleed the brakes and when I was done before I lowered it I grabbed the rear wheel and gave it a good spin. The good side spun around 2-3 times before stopping and the hot side spun around about 1 time after letting go. So there is some drag there, not alot I guess but enough.

It hasn't been smoking but if I kneel down after driving it and smell the wheel area I can smell that it is getting hot, plus the temp reading say it all.

This weekend I am thinking of taking the caliper off and taking the pads and pins out and putting lube on the pad ears and pins and then putting it back together. If it is still getting hot I will replace the caliper, pads and rotor.

Does this sound like a good plan