Navi, not that this is a negative development, but what led to you changing your longstanding position of simply buying whatever WM has on shelves and changing it every 3k?
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I have gone through several strategies over the years depending upon the situation at hand. In earlier versions of the Ford Ecoboost engine for example I was using Mobil Delvac 5W40 ESP until API SP oils came out. The API SP oil worked very well but still sheared to 20 weight so I changed it at 3000 miles. Some people on here said it was designed to shear like that and run it until 10000 miles but I was not comfortable with that. Im not running the ever thinning oil to 10000.Navi, not that this is a negative development, but what led to you changing your longstanding position of simply buying whatever WM has on shelves and changing it every 3k?
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Have you seen my UOA of HPL No VII Euro at 14,400 miles? It didn’t shear one single bit.I do have a VOA and UOA of a 2019 version of Amsoil Signature Series which I will post later. It sheared the least in the 3.5 Ecoboost...even less than Mobil Delvac 5W40 ESP...over 5000 miles.
I will take a look but let me ask what is the engine? A turbo Subaru?Have you seen my UOA of HPL No VII Euro at 14,400 miles? It didn’t shear one single bit.
Amsoil does have a European line of oil but Im not putting this in a European engine. Im talking about problem engines like Ford Ecoboost and GM 5.3/6.2. So I think the 0W40 in their SS line will be best. In this.scenario looking for thick viscosity, lots of wear additives and a good basestock. Resistant to shear...This oil doesn't claim to meet any of the tougher Euro approvals. As such, i wouldn't compare or flat out call it better than anything on Walmart shelves. Find an Amsoil Euro oil...then you have an argument.
I understand your usage case and if Amsoil didn't make an oil referencing tougher Euro approvals, I'd agree that this 0W-40 is a fine choice; In a vacuum, it is great oil, I'm sure. But in the context of this discussion, when M1 EXP can be found on the shelves at Walmart, with all the best approvals in-hand, I cannot claim this Amsoil is better. I'm of the opinion that their (Amsoil) Euro oil is better in this case. And you don't need to drive a European engine in order to use Euro spec'd oils.Amsoil does have a European line of oil but Im not putting this in a European engine. Im talking about problem engines like Ford Ecoboost and GM 5.3/6.2. So I think the 0W40 in their SS line will be best. In this.scenario looking for thick viscosity, lots of wear additives and a good basestock. Resistant to shear...
A trade-in will!Amsoil oil wont fix bad engineering or poor metallurgy.
3.5 EcoBoost, tuned with a couple bolt-ons to about ~500rwhp, 2019 F150 STX.I will take a look but let me ask what is the engine? A turbo Subaru?
The Euro oils are tough to beat when you consider performance, overall value and availability. I'll probably just use one going forward after this next run of SS. Per Amsoil though, SS > Euro. Euro is in between XL and SS, but even then there are some specific differences that don't cross over.I understand your usage case and if Amsoil didn't make an oil referencing tougher Euro approvals, I'd agree that this 0W-40 is a fine choice; In a vacuum, it is great oil, I'm sure. But in the context of this discussion, when M1 EXP can be found on the shelves at Walmart, with all the best approvals in-hand, I cannot claim this Amsoil is better. I'm of the opinion that their (Amsoil) Euro oil is better in this case. And you don't need to drive a European engine in order to use Euro spec'd oils.
HPL SuperCar Euro > all comers. Change my mindThe Euro oils are tough to beat when you consider performance, overall value and availability. I'll probably just use one going forward after this next run of SS. Per Amsoil though, SS > Euro. Euro is in between XL and SS, but even then there are some specific differences that don't cross over.
Amsoil SS has an SP/GF-6 add pack, but it's significantly boosted in detergency, AW additives, AO, and strong ester cobase. Euro oils, while very good, still keep you in a box. Most oils, whether Euro or not, still use similar additives and base oils. For moderate drain intervals, Euro is probably a better choice. I think when you push drains SS edges out Euro oils. Same with Mobil 1 EP vs their Euro. EP are boosted with more AO mostly likely. And they're still using III/IV base oils.
Maybe for Memorial Day if we did a group board buy for 1k+ quarts of SuperCar only, @High Performance Lubricants would come up with something “memorable” for us
According to Lake Speed Jr. NAPA motor oil full synthetic offered more protection than Amsoil proven through science. Does that equate Amsoil to be a bad oil no. It just showed that slick marketing works people buy it it does its job. But why pay more for something that another brand that costs half and gives the same if not better protection. It’s kinda a no brainer. The thing that I have a problem with Amsoil is they make a crud ton of money on their products and I am sure that their profit margins are well above being anemic. Yet they don’t get API or DEXOS certifications on all their products. They say those certifications are pay to play which they are not. The oils have to me strict standards in those test to gain certification. If they say it meets or exceeds API and DEXOS then prove it send it in to get tested otherwise words mean nothing. And if they say we stand behind our product. That promise will fold faster than a cheap lawn chair. Because if you have a motor under warranty and it goes sideways and you take it in and the dealer finds out it’s not API certified or if it’s GM and not Dexos and API or since Amsoil says 20,000 miles between oil changes your warranty is void. Then you go to Amsoil and they ask well did you follow the manufactures recommended oil change intervals? No because your bottle says good for 20,000 miles. Sorry but we can’t help you because you didn’t follow the manufacturer recommended maintenance schedule. That is why I don’t like amsoil.Some posters on this website do not like Amsoil for their marketing but hey its the oil business. All the oil companies have their own way to market a product. I for one have always supported the Amsoil product. My only issue is the price...I thought the oil change was costing too much. Despite the price Amsoil makes a product superior to whatever is found on the Walmart store shelf.
In particular its 0W-40 is thicker than any other 0W-40 on sale at Walmart and contains a superior base stock.
So I think if you are looking for a better solution than the Mobil 1 0W-40 and have the cash to spend take a look at Amsoil. If you worried about that Escalade or F150 with the 3.5 I personally believe running Amsoil 0W-40 will be the best solution.
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This post is filled with such misinformation and bait, I’m just waiting for the show.According to Lake Speed Jr. NAPA motor oil full synthetic offered more protection than Amsoil proven through science. Does that equate Amsoil to be a bad oil no. It just showed that slick marketing works people buy it it does its job. But why pay more for something that another brand that costs half and gives the same if not better protection. It’s kinda a no brainer. The thing that I have a problem with Amsoil is they make a crud ton of money on their products and I am sure that their profit margins are well above being anemic. Yet they don’t get API or DEXOS certifications on all their products. They say those certifications are pay to play which they are not. The oils have to me strict standards in those test to gain certification. If they say it meets or exceeds API and DEXOS then prove it send it in to get tested otherwise words mean nothing. And if they say we stand behind our product. That promise will fold faster than a cheap lawn chair. Because if you have a motor under warranty and it goes sideways and you take it in and the dealer finds out it’s not API certified or if it’s GM and not Dexos and API or since Amsoil says 20,000 miles between oil changes your warranty is void. Then you go to Amsoil and they ask well did you follow the manufactures recommended oil change intervals? No because your bottle says good for 20,000 miles. Sorry but we can’t help you because you didn’t follow the manufacturer recommended maintenance schedule. That is why I don’t like amsoil.
So Amsoil is fish sticks at the price of Almas caviar?According to Lake Speed Jr. NAPA motor oil full synthetic offered more protection than Amsoil proven through science. Does that equate Amsoil to be a bad oil no. It just showed that slick marketing works people buy it it does its job. But why pay more for something that another brand that costs half and gives the same if not better protection. It’s kinda a no brainer. The thing that I have a problem with Amsoil is they make a crud ton of money on their products and I am sure that their profit margins are well above being anemic. Yet they don’t get API or DEXOS certifications on all their products. They say those certifications are pay to play which they are not. The oils have to me strict standards in those test to gain certification. If they say it meets or exceeds API and DEXOS then prove it send it in to get tested otherwise words mean nothing. And if they say we stand behind our product. That promise will fold faster than a cheap lawn chair. Because if you have a motor under warranty and it goes sideways and you take it in and the dealer finds out it’s not API certified or if it’s GM and not Dexos and API or since Amsoil says 20,000 miles between oil changes your warranty is void. Then you go to Amsoil and they ask well did you follow the manufactures recommended oil change intervals? No because your bottle says good for 20,000 miles. Sorry but we can’t help you because you didn’t follow the manufacturer recommended maintenance schedule. That is why I don’t like amsoil.
Want me to cite my sources?This post is filled with such misinformation and bait, I’m just waiting for the show.![]()