Raybestos Element E3 vs Akebono brake pads

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What is the difference between rockauto's number BRF-901 vs Ford's number # BT4Z-2001-B
Excellent question. The point most are trying to make is that Motorcraft can appear on OE parts and aftermarket parts. They may not be the same part. Factory Ford engines used to come with Motorcraft Champion Labs made oil filters while the "same" Motorcraft filter on the retail shelf was made by Purolator. My OE Akebono brake pads are completely different than the aftermarket Akebono pads.

Here's a decent description of Ford Genuine Parts vs. Ford Motorcraft Parts: https://www.tomwoodford.com/blog/20...between-ford-genuine-parts-and-motorcraft.htm
 
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Scott S

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Brf 901 is a ceramic pad br 1258b is a organic pad.. BT4Z-2001-B is the factory pad. But br 1258 b it is like a warranty replacement and can be used.. the original pad is organic.
 
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But back to the OP question - The Raybestos E3 line has a lot of favorable opinions from some very knowledgeable and well respected fellow Bitoggers. I haven't tried them yet but based on the Bitog poll I'm planning to at some point.

Akebono is US made and is an OEM supplier to a lot of the North American manufacturers so they have that going for them. They do seem to always be at the 90 percentile level on price though.

But before learning about those 2 brands I had a GMC truck with such terrible brakes that I was planning to go all out and order AC DELCO OEM pads from the dealer whatever the cost just to try to fix it. But then at the last minute I decided to gamble on Rock Auto's "OE Performance" AC DELCO pads and they have worked just fine. I would consider the "OE Performance" option at to be a viable alternative as well.

I think all your options are good ones and you will be pleased with the outcome which ever way you go.
I’m a mechanic who’s worked at a dealer from 2003-2013, and still a mechanic now but doing government fleet now and sidework occasionally.

I used raybestos e3 on my van last time and think they’re junk, honestly. The hardware was all horrible. They dust significantly more than akebono, didn’t feel much better, and as I said, the fit was horrible. I bent and adjusted shims enough that they didn’t rattle (for the time being) but we traded the van in. I guarantee that we’d have noises out of those brakes in the near future.

When I posted my experience I got many opinions that I got old parts or didn’t get e3 or whatever, but what I’m basically saying is of all the aftermarket and oem stuff I’ve dealt with (probably more than many home-garage mechanics here) raybestos was about the junkiest I’ve seen. I think at least one other guy here @The Critic agrees with my opinion of raybestos, but the clear majority here loves them.

I do agree with many guys’ review of akebono providing a soft feel and lack of bite, but I’m willing to deal with that over the alternative of raybestos at least.
 
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I liked my akebono but they did need ground down they wouldnt fit on the subaru without grinding the ears pretty severely.
if you have a 2013 and its never needed brakes.. I'd probably cough up for the ford brake pads too.

Next question is there a difference between motorcraft from rockauto vs dealer?
Wow, I've heard of grinding down pad ears to make them fit the bracket, but have never experienced it myself. This would be a big red flag to me.
I did a brake job on a newer F-150; @The Critic helped me source OE parts. These pads were beautiful! Fittment was outstanding. If you can spring for OE, I don't think you will be sorry. Just my experience.

Now don't get me started on GS350 F Sport front pads... OE is the only way to go.
 

Pew

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Wow, I've heard of grinding down pad ears to make them fit the bracket, but have never experienced it myself. This would be a big red flag to me.

I've had to do this on every AZ or AAP pads that I've used so far for a Fiesta, Grand Caravan, and IS350 F-sport. Sometimes it was a simple grind that sandpaper could work but usually I needed a dremel.
 
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I've had to do this on every AZ or AAP pads that I've used so far for a Fiesta, Grand Caravan, and IS350 F-sport. Sometimes it was a simple grind that sandpaper could work but usually I needed a dremel.
Maybe you need a bigger hammer? Just kidding!
I am not sure I would contunue to use those ill-fitting parts. I would have to wonder that if the length was wrong, what else could be wrong?

I have had great luck with Element3, Akebono and Centric brake parts. Mostly on Hondas and Toyotas... Historically I've used Akebonos the most, but I have been buying the Element3 stuff for the last few years.
 

Scott S

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Thank you everyone I found them on RockAuto just by doing the search, they didn't list it for my vehicle, but it is the right ones my vehicle according to the dealer.. I'm just going to go ahead and put them on.. and there are only 50 bucks on Rock Auto
 
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Excellent question. The point most are trying to make is that Motorcraft can appear on OE parts and aftermarket parts. They may not be the same part. Factory Ford engines used to come with Motorcraft Champion Labs made oil filters while the "same" Motorcraft filter on the retail shelf was made by Purolator. My OE Akebono brake pads are completely different than the aftermarket Akebono pads.

The factory oil filter is done for a specific reason, to prove whether someone actually changed the oil should someone claim a warranty :sneaky:

If someone sends a blown engine, and Ford sees the original factory filter on it, they know that the owner never had the oil changed. Any car that actually had even one oil change will have a different filter, whether the filter came from the dealer or the aftermarket.

The Purolator Motorcraft is the same whether from the dealer, Walmart, or anywhere else.
 
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Excellent question. The point most are trying to make is that Motorcraft can appear on OE parts and aftermarket parts. They may not be the same part. Factory Ford engines used to come with Motorcraft Champion Labs made oil filters while the "same" Motorcraft filter on the retail shelf was made by Purolator. My OE Akebono brake pads are completely different than the aftermarket Akebono pads.

Here's a decent description of Ford Genuine Parts vs. Ford Motorcraft Parts: https://www.tomwoodford.com/blog/20...between-ford-genuine-parts-and-motorcraft.htm
Thank you for that link. This caught my attention:

"Aside from working better and lasting longer, using an aftermarket part may affect your warranty coverage."

Oh my... Harley Davidson just got slammed for using language like that.

 
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I've had to do this on every AZ or AAP pads that I've used so far for a Fiesta, Grand Caravan, and IS350 F-sport. Sometimes it was a simple grind that sandpaper could work but usually I needed a dremel.
I’ve had the opposite happen for me - Wagner and Bendix - were too loose in the caliper bracket, resulting in a clunk.

The newest Duralast pads are made in Mexico by Bosch, not by MAT in China or India. Advance and O’Reilly still sell Chinese/Indian pads.
 
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I’ve had the opposite happen for me - Wagner and Bendix - were too loose in the caliper bracket, resulting in a clunk.

The newest Duralast pads are made in Mexico by Bosch, not by MAT in China or India. Advance and O’Reilly still sell Chinese/Indian pads.
A year ago I did a front brake job on a newer F-140 4wd with about 150K I think. Used OE parts that @The Critic sourced for me. Fittment was fantastic. A pleasure to reassemble... I felt like a real mechanic!
 
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I was a long time akebono user. I liked their pedal feel and low dusting. However in several applications found them to lack in stopping power. They did well with family Hondas, seemed oem on our 08 Jeep Grand Cherokee. They were worthless, and I mean 2-feet-on-the-pedal worthless, in our quad-piston tundra TRD, and lost all of the goodness of Volvo braking in our s60 Volvos. I went on a “try several” binge and found the element3 to be my absolute favorite in our f150 which sees tow duty - more stopping power than oem, and a surprising good match for the Lexus GS with great pedal feel and modulation. They dust more than akebono, but not alot, and the dust is grey instead of rust brown, so it just sort of blends in.

akebono may have more precision-shaped backing plates, but based on pedal feel and performance with only a slight dusting penalty, element3 is the winner for me.

drawbacks. One, they seem a bit harder on rotors. Two, they are more sensitive to squealing on the first cold stop. I absolutely use shims, goop, grease, and roughen the rotors when I install these.
 
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I too am a fan of the Element 3 Hybrid pads (combined with their coated rotors). Installed a set on our old 2015 Camry and 2014 Tacoma, along with the beater '95 Talon. All had improved brake performance over OEM. Well, except for the Talon, but that was due to air in the system, but a couple brake bleeders were snapped off...
 
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