Racing on a 0w-20?

[randomhero439]

I do alot of autocross and drag racing with my Accord. Ive done tons of research on whether to use the specified 5w-20, or start using a 0w-20. Now theoretically the 5w-20 should be more shear stable correct? The obvious benefit of 0w-20 is the cold start properties and it does get pretty cold here in NW Ohio. But will the 0w-20 hold up to racing events and constant high rpm? During season i change the oil 3750 or 6 months. Off season i just leave it in from October till April, usually around 5000 miles and change it after the 1st autox event.

Either oil (5w-20 or 0w-20) will be synthetic. Right now im considering PP 0w-20. Or should i just stick with PU 5w-20. Possibly 5w-20 in the summer, and 0w-20 off season?

I value engine protection and longevity, over price and availability. Would you consider Redline 5w-20 in the summer and Pennzoil 0w-20 in the winter?

 

[Clevy]

For racing I would and will be using the most stout 5w-20 you can find. The red-line 5w-20 is actually a 30 grade but it think it would hold up well. You can't get much better than red line.
How hot are you anticipating the oil getting. I'd consider an oil cooler or perhaps a thicker oil due to elevated oil temps.
In order to make an educated decision you would really need an oil temp gauge to establish the highest oil temp experienced,and what the actual oil pressure was when experiencing those temps,then make a decision from there.
As far as winter goes I'm liking how the AFE 0w-20 is working thus far in my hemi and Caterham's point on viscosity index does make alot of sense in a cold climate however I wouldn't think twice about using pennzoil's 0w-20. It looks like great oil on paper and I'm sure it's a fantastic performer.

 

[donnyj08]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
I do alot of autocross and drag racing with my Accord. Ive done tons of research on whether to use the specified 5w-20, or start using a 0w-20. Now theoretically the 5w-20 should be more shear stable correct? The obvious benefit of 0w-20 is the cold start properties and it does get pretty cold here in NW Ohio. But will the 0w-20 hold up to racing events and constant high rpm? During season i change the oil 3750 or 6 months. Off season i just leave it in from October till April, usually around 5000 miles and change it after the 1st autox event.

Either oil (5w-20 or 0w-20) will be synthetic. Right now im considering PP 0w-20. Or should i just stick with PU 5w-20. Possibly 5w-20 in the summer, and 0w-20 off season?

I value engine protection and longevity, over price and availability. Would you consider Redline 5w-20 in the summer and Pennzoil 0w-20 in the winter?



Im not sure it will matter at all. M1 0w20 is almost as thick as their 5w20 at operating tempurature according to their website specs. I however probably wouldn't use any of the super thin 0w20's that a few here worship, because i believe their HTHSV numbers are a little low for sustained high RPM running in summer heat. I would prefer a thicker 20wt for that application.

I would probably stay with a good 5w20 oil on the thick side. Amsoil comes to mind, and im sure there are a few others.

 

[randomhero439]

Since its synthetic, does it really matter all that much?

I mean most oil weights are specified based on conventional oils... so is it safe to assume that almost any car using a synthetic oil instead of conventional, simply use a 0w? For example my friends Altima SE-R specifies 10w-40 (above 0F), obviously that is a conventional oil requirement. So should he just use a 0w-40 since he will use synthetic?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Since its synthetic, does it really matter all that much?

I mean most oil weights are specified based on conventional oils... so is it safe to assume that almost any car using a synthetic oil instead of conventional, simply use a 0w? For example my friends Altima SE-R specifies 10w-40 (above 0F), obviously that is a conventional oil requirement. So should he just use a 0w-40 since he will use synthetic?

Is cost a factor and what oil change interval is specified. In the winter cold yes a 0w is ideal depending on ambient temps. If ambient temp isn't that cold why spend more than you have to?
If he just wants to stick with 1 oil for the life of the vehicle and ambient temps are an issue then yes,go with a 0w-40 however if winter is a non issue then there are more cost effective options out there.

 

[OB4x4]

I would second the Redline 5w-20. With a HTHS of 3.3 it betters some of the 30 weights on the market.

 

[crashtestdummy]

I think the spec of the oil bears more relevance than just going by the weight.

Do you have an oil gauge installed since you are autocrossing and drag racing?

 

[Nederlander75]

Ive had the Altima SER and it only lists as acceptible 10w40.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Ive had the Altima SER and it only lists as acceptible 10w40.


Correct and that is a conventional oil weight. If he used 0w40 synthetic, would their be oil QUALITY disadvantages?

 

[rrounds]

I used a thin oil when I was drag racing back in the 70's, well I used the thinnest I could find. The oil will not get hot when drag racing. Even when auto-crossing I doubt the oil will get hot enough to harm the engine. Put a oil temp. gauge on your car and you will know for sure.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
The red-line 5w-20 is actually a 30 grade


No it's not....

CCS Redline 5,000 at -30C, 5W 6,600 Max
KV100 Redline 9.1, 5W 3.8 Min
KV100 Redline 9.1, 20 5.6-9.3
HTHS Redline 3.3, 20 2.6 min

It's a 5W-20

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Clevy
The red-line 5w-20 is actually a 30 grade


No it's not....

CCS Redline 5,000 at -30C, 5W 6,600 Max
KV100 Redline 9.1, 5W 3.8 Min
KV100 Redline 9.1, 20 5.6-9.3
HTHS Redline 3.3, 20 2.6 min

It's a 5W-20


But but Caterham Andretti said its close and is better thought of as a 30w.

Originally Posted By: Caterham
Consiquently the FUCHS oil is a heavy 20wt oil while RL 0W-20 is better thought of as a light 30wt

 

[A_Harman]

You could consider Redline 0w20. It's a little bit more stout than other 0w20's, but its HTHS doesn't encroach on the 30-weight range. In drag racing and autocross, you're not running long enough to get the oil hot enough to worry about.

All that said, there's nothing wrong with the cold start characteristics of a good 5w20 sythetic in the climate of northern Ohio.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Since its synthetic, does it really matter all that much?

I mean most oil weights are specified based on conventional oils... so is it safe to assume that almost any car using a synthetic oil instead of conventional, simply use a 0w? For example my friends Altima SE-R specifies 10w-40 (above 0F), obviously that is a conventional oil requirement. So should he just use a 0w-40 since he will use synthetic?


Synthetic or conventional, you want optimum film strength for your application. A 20 grade conventional will have roughly the same film strength as conventional 20 weight, so they will provide the same amount of protection. What you should be looking for is what temps and oil pressures you are running during racing events and then pick your oil accordingly.
Without this info all that can be safely recommended is a heavier oil to ensure you have enough viscosity margin.

 

[blackman777]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
my friends Altima SE-R specifies 10w-40 (above 0F), obviously that is a conventional oil requirement. So should he just use a 0w-40 since he will use synthetic?
No a 0W-40 synthetic has viscosity modifiers (additives). A 10w-40 synthetic does not. You're better off using the one that does not.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Seems like Mobil 1 0W-30 would be a perfect oil for this application. Plenty of head room being on the lower end of the 30 grade scale, but still good cold start characteristics. It's also readily available and at a good price.

 

[addyguy]

I'm a bit old-school on this....Honda V-6 engines are a lot harder on oil than the 4-cylinders.

Throw in a fair bit of racing...and I'd want the added POM of a 30-weight at a minimum.

I'd most likely use Redline 0W-30, or Brad-Penn 'Penngrade 1' 0W-30...both VERY stout oils that will provide lots of protection, as well as quick flow at start-up in all weather.

 

[dailydriver]

IF you could get it (and that's a BIG IF), the Fuchs Titan GT1 XTL 0W-20 is a high ester base stock content oil with a NATURAL 173 viscosity index (NO added VI improvers), and is one of the thicker, and MOST shear-proof (along with Red Line's lower VI 0W-20) of all of the 0W-20s.

I am currently trying to find a source in the U.S. for this, but am not having ANY luck whatsoever.

It almost seems like they REFUSE to bring it into this country for some reason.