Racing oil or not?

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I have a couple of street cars that have been converted to oval track cars that don't see many miles but are at or near redline regularly. Would you suggest running a dedicated racing oil or should I just use a high quality synthetic?
The cars are a 1990 Nissan 240SX with a stock 2.4L KA24e with bypassed emmisions equipment and an '83 Mustang 3.8L V6 with a carb also no emmisions equipment.
 
I'd stick with a regular, high quality synthetic. You want the additives that are missing in race oils since you mentioned very little miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
What does the guys use that usually come in first and second the most?

With the Nissan I'm near the front of the pack unless I've done something stupid so I'm just looking out for the health of the engine. This car is raced on asphalt with the longest race being 30 laps (figure about 15 miles including cautions). The mustang runs in the dirt for 75 miles so the conditions are a bit more extreme but being an enduro race the lead cars are never the same and engine choices are wildly varying. For this car something that can tolerate abusive engine temps is most critical.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I'd stick with a regular, high quality synthetic. You want the additives that are missing in race oils since you mentioned very little miles.


What additives would those be that you feel are missing from racing oils? Do tell.
 
Originally Posted By: Eric R.
I have a couple of street cars that have been converted to oval track cars that don't see many miles but are at or near redline regularly. Would you suggest running a dedicated racing oil or should I just use a high quality synthetic?
The cars are a 1990 Nissan 240SX with a stock 2.4L KA24e with bypassed emmisions equipment and an '83 Mustang 3.8L V6 with a carb also no emmisions equipment.


IMO for your applications and use...

The 4cyl Nissan = Redline
The 6cyl Mustang = Royal Purple XPR
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I'd stick with a regular, high quality synthetic. You want the additives that are missing in race oils since you mentioned very little miles.


What additives would those be that you feel are missing from racing oils? Do tell.



It's a known fact that racing oils do not have the same level of additives needed for daily driven vehicles and other additives can damage emmission control devices.

For example, Joe Gibbs Racing oil says:

Can I run Joe Gibbs Driven oil in my high performance street car?

No. Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil features additives that can harm your high performance street car’s emission control equipment. Joe Gibbs Driven Hot Rod Oil is designed for street driven engines with carburetors. Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil is designed for racing applications only.
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/trainingcenter/faq.html

And Redline says of their Racing oils:

Racing oils provide more wear protection than motor oils for passenger vehicles, however, these products contain fewer detergents and are not suitable for street use
http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=1

How's that?
 
Originally Posted By: bearda
But the OP says he doesn't have any emissions equipment, so those additives aren't going to do him any good anyway.



True, but it goes beyond that. The racing oils lack enough detergents and other additives that regular oil has to prevent corrision, contamination, etc that a daily driver or car that sits for a log time with few miles(like the OP's) needs. Racing oils are just for that - racing and usually they get replaced after each race or so, atleast a majority drag racers do. Remember, the OP's cars are really not "race cars" in the sense that they are high horsepower purposely built for the track. These are regular production vehicles converted to that use so they still retain a lot regular car internals and the fact that they will be used in often I think calls for the need of proper additives that a good Mobil 1 syn or Redline.

Just my opinion, doesn't mean its gospel :)
 
Valvoline and Pennzoil emailed me and told me their VR1 and GT oils can be used in daily drivers with no problems. Just don`t use them in extended oci`s. They told me 3000/3 month oci`s would be no problem.
 
How's your valvetrain holding up?
This would be my first concern - to have enough additives in the oil for wear control.
Modern street oils often are weak and Gov't castrated. High performance cams with heavy springs and fast ramps will have excessive parts wear.
You are not racking up the miles like a Nascar 5000 mile race, but it is still a primary concern.
 
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: bearda
But the OP says he doesn't have any emissions equipment, so those additives aren't going to do him any good anyway.



True, but it goes beyond that. The racing oils lack enough detergents and other additives that regular oil has to prevent corrision, contamination, etc that a daily driver or car that sits for a log time with few miles(like the OP's) needs. Racing oils are just for that - racing and usually they get replaced after each race or so, atleast a majority drag racers do. Remember, the OP's cars are really not "race cars" in the sense that they are high horsepower purposely built for the track. These are regular production vehicles converted to that use so they still retain a lot regular car internals and the fact that they will be used in often I think calls for the need of proper additives that a good Mobil 1 syn or Redline.

Just my opinion, doesn't mean its gospel :)


Emmissions is not a concern for the OP nor is keeping the oil clean. His needs are all wear protection in an engine that is going to be used hard. Sorry but I just disagree with you. Perfect application for a racing oil.
 
It's ok to disagree.

I'm not saying that he will not be served well by the racing oil. I was just voicing concern over the car sitting and being used very little. I'd want a full additive oil in there to combat fuel, condensation and other nastys that happen with little use. Just sitting parked the oil can attack bearings if it's contaminated and doesn't have additives to prevent it. Seen it happen.
 
In NM, in a racing environment, 'cold temps' aren't an issue, so I'd be looking for a straight-weight SAE 30 or 40.

If you can find a SAE 30 HDEO like Rotella, or Delo, I think it would be ideal.
 
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