Question on Auto Rx...is it working?

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Both tests done in morning before car was started for the day---engine cold

I don't think that you'll get accurate readings with a cold engine. Do you know if your car has solid or hydraulic lifters? Did you try adding a little oil to cylinders 3 and 4 and repeating the compression test?

Cheers,

J
 
The area under the oil filler cap does not receive a lot of oil flow, so you cannot expect any significant improvements.
 
Originally Posted By: SL8R
Both tests done in morning before car was started for the day---engine cold

I don't think that you'll get accurate readings with a cold engine. Do you know if your car has solid or hydraulic lifters? Did you try adding a little oil to cylinders 3 and 4 and repeating the compression test?

Cheers,

J


Correct. The most accurate readings are obtained from a hot engine. Cold readings can be all over the map.
 
The oil filler hole has a baffel below. I doubt there is any oil flow to the cap. I believe the deposits on the top side of the baffle and the underside of the filler cap are from vapors. Liquid oil and ARX will never get there. As for the filter housing it is likely that oil vapors continue to coat the area each time the motor is turned off. I would wait until the application is complete before making any conclusions. These motors typically suffer from inadequate crank case ventilation in many cases. Something to check out. May be shoveling it up the river. Seen plenty of positive ARX results in similar motors.
 
So when I come up on the oil filter change at the half way point on my 2nd ARX cycle shold I change the filter again? Based on the above pictures it was holding nothing after the rince cycle so what is the point in a new filter half way? These Volvo Filters are over $20 each.
 
Originally Posted By: Rick20
The oil filler hole has a baffel below. I doubt there is any oil flow to the cap. I believe the deposits on the top side of the baffle and the underside of the filler cap are from vapors. Liquid oil and ARX will never get there.


You just gotta do an Immelmann every time you go for a drive.
 
Man did you get hosed at $20 filter cartridges...!!!

Those filters are nothing special. Go to NAPA and get the Gold or Silver for more that half that price.

Or buy the Genuine Volvo Filter, (Mahle), if you must from Darrel Waltrip Volvo in TN. They are around $9 each and they give you an aluminum washer to boot. Buy all the Volvo parts from them. It's only 10% over cost. Volvo Forums know this. You should too.

By the way, you have a f'kd up PCV system to generate that much crud. I had half of that crud before the auto rx treatment and it's all gone now on the cap area.

Do a double treatment with Auto-RX in your case. Use Mobil 5000 5/30 for 2000 miles clean and rinse. And be done with it.

That is after you change out the PCV system, for those that know, it's just not like changing out a parts, it's a series of tubes and connectors and takes like 3 hours if you know what you are doing.
 
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Originally Posted By: volvomix
Man did you get hosed at $20 filter cartridges...!!!

Those filters are nothing special. Go to NAPA and get the Gold or Silver for more that half that price.

Or buy the Genuine Volvo Filter, (Mahle), if you must from Darrel Waltrip Volvo in TN. They are around $9 each and they give you an aluminum washer to boot. Buy all the Volvo parts from them. It's only 10% over cost. Volvo Forums know this. You should too.

By the way, you have a f'kd up PCV system to generate that much crud. I had half of that crud before the auto rx treatment and it's all gone now on the cap area.

Do a double treatment with Auto-RX in your case. Use Mobil 5000 5/30 for 2000 miles clean and rinse. And be done with it.

That is after you change out the PCV system, for those that know, it's just not like changing out a parts, it's a series of tubes and connectors and takes like 3 hours if you know what you are doing.



Is the PCV something that is covered under the Volvo warranty? How did it get messed up?
 
It will probably work, but I would correct the PCV issue, and give A-RX a chance to work without any additional hurdles to overcome.
 
If your car has an underlying issue that is causing the problem, arx may clean what's there to an extint. It's going to depend on how fast sludge/deposits are produced vs. how fast arx can clean them. But the problem will come back eventually unless the mechanical issue is corrected.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Will auto rx work if my PCV is not working? I'm already well in to my 2nd cleaning cycle.


Certainly but dont expect it to fix that problem. One of my mazdas had a blocked off PCV system and had great results from ARX.
 
Only things I know about Auto-RX is that a very large number of people seem to have gotten good results using it and the stuff seemed to work for me. But if an oil came along that would clean an engine without using Auto-RX then it would make sense just to use the oil. Exxon/Mobil is making claims about the cleaning ability of their new HM Mobil 1 oils. Maybe after you get done cleaning and rinsing with the Auto-RX give the Mobil 1 HM oil of the correct viscosity for your car a try.
 
This reminded me to duck out and check the Outback oil to see how it's going some 800 kms into clean. Oil has darkened far more then usual. I stopped using maint doses on it, so I'm not surprised.
 
Originally Posted By: SL8R
This thread on swedespeed might be helpful in diagnosing and curing any possible problems you're having with your PCV system:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=117607&postid=1227550

It's a thread for an 04 V70R, but it looks like the PCV system is very similar or the same on your 04 XC70.

Cheers,

Jeff


Thanks!!!
It says a prim example of a clogged PCV system is that the car burns a lot of oil. Mine burns no oil at all. If my PCV is not clogged, what else may be going on?
 
I was told to put a rubber glove over the oil fill hole with the engine running and if it sucks the glove in that it means the PCV is working. If it inflates the golve it is not functioning. Is this correct?

If so my PVC is working as the glove was sucked in.
 
It depends on how much volume is engineered into the PCV system. Some Euro's can't even idle with the dipstick removed, let alone the oil cap.

This diagram doesn't show any vacuum regulation. No regulated manifold leak like we're used to seeing on most American cars.

They do have the advanced design catch-can that self drains back to the crankcase. I try and point this feature out to those making their own home grown versions. I'm lazy and like self maintaining systems. If you're going to the trouble ..make it trouble free, if you can.

4737.jpg
 
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