Question on Auto Rx...is it working?

[moribundman]

Please post engine pictures from before and from after the rinse phase. Also have pre-cleaning and post-rinse compression test results handy. Otherwise, pictures of the cleaned engine, completely torn down, will suffice. That's just for me, of course. Others may be just happy with whatever.

 

[BrianWC]

My dipstick is still dirty. Honestly, whatever is in that SAAB engine is murder. I've actually TRIED to clean it off with everything. Nothing. Still there.

 

[moribundman]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
My dipstick is still dirty.


Please don't post pictures.

 

[BrianWC]

I bet those LiquiMoly guys would like it.

 

[moribundman]

I bet. I'm sure they are clean freaks. You know what they say about those.

 

[panthermike]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
My dipstick is still dirty.


Please don't post pictures.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: vxcalais
I read alot about the dipstick being clean, i know its used as a guage on Auto-RX cleaning, but heck, cant some of you just wipe it clean !

You will have to take the engine apart and remove the compression and oil rings from the pistons. There, on rings and in the grooves, that's where A-RX works its magick -- or so I hear over and over.

Well, it surely did do just that in dnewton3's Taurus. He was assimilated with the neuro-toxins that aromatically permeate the cerebral membranes causing all the

 

[Jax_RX8]

I have always been intrigued by the idea of running an Auto-RX Clean phase, then then during the rinse phase adding a normal dose (1oz per quart) of LC20 to speed up and assist the motor cleanup.

Several on here seem to have tried this with very good success - I would think an engine with this much buildup would be a perfect candidate.

Also, While Auto-RX is a very good at softening and breaking up sludge buildup it does not seem to be very good with varnish because of it's lack of any solvents in the package.

LC20 is far superior at cleaning up Varnish and actually dissolves carbon because of the particular lubricious solvent it uses as part of it's makeup.

I just seems to me that you could get the best of both worlds using this technique.

 

[demarpaint]

I would think that there is a possibility that the chemistries would conflict? Even during the rinse phase? But then again that would be best left for an expert to answer?

 

[Jax_RX8]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I would think that there is a possibility that the chemistries would conflict? Even during the rinse phase? But then again that would be best left for an expert to answer?


I know Frank has stated they cannot be used at the same time - but there should be little residual Auto-RX in the sump as part of the rinse phase for any chemical conflict - just "softened up" deposits that would make LC20 even more effective at completing the task of removing/dissolving.

Others have tried it - but can't remember who - maybe they could weigh in on their observations.

Mola is very familiar with both rpoducts as well - your thoughts?

 

[Rick20]

Since I was hired by both companies to test their products I post this with some degree of insight. I am not allowed by proprietary agreement to disclose all I know about each product but here goes what I can.

Frank of Auto-RX may have a valid point but I have not verified the idea that continous use of Auto-Rx in a lower maintenance dose could clean continually. I can say that from our testing to date the product literally is a "liquid filter" that not only cleans but can disperse large and small contaminants in a way that cuts wear and increases ring seal. Ensuring the product is at room temp BEFORE pouring into the host oil ELIMINATES cold weather issues, once installed in the host oil cold start,pump is not impacted.

LC is more of a anti-oxidant booster with a unique Cf reduction capability using a chemistry that is unlike Auto-RX, both chemistries are unique, NO ONE ( other companies), have access to.

In nearly 60 years of continous use, LC is a rock solid chemistry but WILL not CLEAN deeply like Auto-RX.

The ester chemistry of RX is totally antithetical to LC.

Many of my oil analysis customers use BOTH products at the same time, verifying that application with oil analysis. This does not work in every application and for cleaning phase there is no need for LC top ups.

LC is as safe as motor oil, and Auto-RX is as safe as a consumable food stuff so they can be compatible but do not attempt that without verifying oil analysis. Both companies will not be happy for me to post that here but there are those doing it , successfully. Warning!! Don't do it without testing and don't blame either company if you screw up something experimenting on your own!

Marketing takes second seat to my desire to share science here. So, I say with a great degree of confidence: use both products as directed and enjoy your engine running better while saving money on needless additives or overpriced fully formulated lubes that will still need a periodic Auto-RX cleaning and anti oxidation help from LC.

Both products are effective chemical correction tools for us as a oil analysis company. Used properly save time and money.

Terry

 

[Jax_RX8]

Wow!!!!! Great Insights!!!

Thanks for clearing up the much repeated marketing propaganda that has gone on here about these 2 being an either/or choice.

Using both at the same time - long though about it even though guidance was one or the other, now I might try out both - of course with oil analysis to verify.

Thanks Terry for sharing!!

 

[Jax_RX8]

BTW - post 1342443 of this thread by Terry needs to be a sticky somewhere instead of being buried in the mounds of ARX threads. I think it would be beneficial to all who read here.

Could that be done?

 

[ZZman]

So have you run the engine with the oil cap off to see if any oil sprays out or gets up there?

Are the deposits seen any softer and more easily removed by being exposed to vapor with ARX in it?

 

[Rick20]

I don't think you'll find much of ARX in any vapors. The only ARX action will be from oil flow. Perhaps the issue is the oil return passages. Oil needs to be draining back to the pan at the same rate that it is being pumped up top.

 

[va3ux]

Originally Posted By: Jax_RX8
...
LC20 is far superior at cleaning up Varnish and actually dissolves carbon because of the particular lubricious solvent it uses as part of it's makeup.


LC20 CLAIMS to be superior at cleaning up varnish. I ran a gallon of it through my engine over a period of a year and it did nothing to the varnish. This past summer I brushed straight LC20 on half of one the heads on my V6 and let it sit for 3 days while I carried out repairs. Result : nothing. Varsol did more in 3 minutes than LC20 did.

 

[BrianWC]

My experience as well.

 

[Rick20]

JAX_RX8,

Terry's comments came from a thread a couple years back, here at BITOG.

The million dollar question is why does "varnish" occur? Is it only formed from dino oils? If so why some and not others?

Lastly it is found in non threatening areas of the top end of motors around but not including the actual working parts for the most part. Is "varnish" a big deal? Is varnish the precurser to hard abrasive sludge deposits?

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
My experience as well.


+2.

No noticeable improvement with LC20 on the two vehicles I used it in.

 

[Chris B.]

Here is an update!!!

I just finished the 1st rince cycle of 3,000 miles. I used Castrol GTX 5w30 and a Volvo oil filter. Here are a few pictures. The oil filter did not appear to have any sludge or gunk in it at all. Looked like a normal dirty filter. This filter was changed at the half way mark:

Here is a picture of the oil filler hole and cap when I first bought this Volvo XC70 used with 46,000 miles on it. This picture is the one posted at the begining of this thread. The clean filler hole is ona new XC70:

This is where the oil filter goes. You can see all the varnish where the oil flows. I would think Auto RX should have cleaned this a litte by now:

And finally the latest pictures of my oil filler hole and cap. It is unchanged. This is after one full Auto RX cleaning and rince cycle. I just started my 2nd Auto RX cleaning cycle using Castrol GTX again.

Based on these pictures I'm having a hard time believing Auto RX is doing anything. You can argue that Auto RX does not get un high enough to clean the oil filler hole and cap but why no gunk in the filter and why is there varnish still on the oil filter housing that has constint oil flow through it? I'm really having my doubts just like last time! Can someone explain what is going on? Thanks!