Question for Ralph - Motorguard Bypass

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Ralph,
I recall reading in your postings that you said you could change the TP filter and add a quart of dino in your vehicle every 3 or 4K miles and literally never change the oil. What prevents your oil from thickening? I am using the Amsoil dual remote bypass and according to the UOA report, my Amsoil 0W-30 is now 40 weight. In other words, I am going to need an oil change because of viscosity, not because the oil is contaminated. How is that not a problem for you? Is this just an Amsoil thing? Thanks.
 
Ralph may have something else to say ..but thickening is an Amsoil trademark characteristic. Although you can surely use a synth with a bypass TP filter ..I would think that the majority are dino users. This was surely true before synth oil was made for passenger car engines. Once you go through the entire sump, quart wise, you retire the oldest oil and the rest is a composit of newer stocks.

Just follow one of the orginal quarts of a 5 quart sump cutting it every 3k. It's down to next to nothing by 15k. When you reach 15k you're in free fall. The sump is as old as it can get.
 
It's a matter of keeping the oil clean and adding enough new makeup oil. I have had some viscosity increase problems with Amsoil 10-40 oil. It was probably because I was operating under very hot oil conditions and trying to go too far between filter changes with an engine that didn't use oil. I was simply not adding enough new oil. My sister's Geo Prism operates under extreme hot oil conditions but I change the filter and add a quart every 4,000 miles. She has no viscosity increase problems with Castrol GTX 10-40. If the oil and filters were very expensive she would complain about the cost. I would go farther between filter changes then I would eventually have to change the oil. She had no problem with the Amsoil 10-40 in the Honda Civic that she put a lot of miles on. She changed the filter every 4,000 miles. It had the same oil in the transaxle. She bought the Frantz oil cleaner from a Frantz Amsoil dealer in Salt Lake City about 1960. It is on the GEO Prism ATF. The Motor Guard is the easiest to service so I put it on the motor oil. I only have to change the ATF filter about every two years.

Ralph
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I had the same thickening with the S2000, even though I did TP and a quart every 4-5K. I feel S2000 doesn't hold up for extended drains even with the bypass. UOA showed too many metals.

WDP
 
I have gone over 40,000 miles doing this proceedure....but I initially backed it up with oil analysis...you need to establish a trend, to see how YOUR engine responds to this sort of non drain interval...my engine ( 95 nissan Altima ) can handle it.
 
Last night I did some post searching in the UOA part of the forum It seems that other people are getting better UOAs than me using either the Amsoil bypass or the TP bypass. I'm going to give the Amsoil dual remote bypass one more shot using the HDD 5w30 Series 3000 and the new Ea filters. If I don't see any improvement I may just dump the whole thing and go with a Motor Guard TP bypass. If I do, which is better: tapping into the oil pressure sender, or using a sandwich adapter? (Jeep 4.0 HO in-line 6 cyl, used on a rural mail route)
 
I prefer the sandwich adapter. The pressure between the inlet and outlet is very low. This allows the oil to soak thru the element instead of being forced thru. I am restoring a 1981 Datsun diesel. I used a Perma-Cool Ford 181 sandwich adapter. The nipple on the Datsun was almost too short. Sometimes it is better to just use the universal 189 adapter because it has more reach. I had the same trouble with my Camry. The orifice isn't necessary with the sandwich adapter because you are not taking oil off the system. On the new Motor Guards remove the orifice with a 3/16" Allen wrench.

Ralph
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Ralph,
Thanks for the reply. This is a little off topic, but when a sandwich adaptor is screwed on to the oil filter nipple, how do you get it to tighten up in the right position to install the lines to the bypass filter? Do they come with shims? My OEM oil filter is screwed on parallel to the engine block so the oil line threads on the adaptor must be in the right position when the adaptor is tightened. May only have a 20 degree leeway to work with.
 
You tighten the steel center part while you hold the aluminum adapter with the ports where you want it. The center part takes a large socket about 1 1/8". I sometimes use a large adjustable wrench. After you get it on you will have a nipple with a gasket surface just like the original mount. For a bypass filter it doesn't matter what size hose you use. If you use it for a cooler you will need a larger hose. I get my adapters at www.jegs.com. With the universal adapter you will end up with 3/4"-16 threads. Most Chrysler products use that size filter.

Ralph
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