Question about vw511.00 5w40

[Audiman]

I haven't see much/read much about any failures on the MQB VAG cars with huge power with bevel box/rear ends...basically bulletproof. On the warranty - some folks just want to enjoy things and take the finanical risk...I get it....I did it on my Sportwagen but of course that's a $20K car, not a $60K car.

If your happy to pay then that’s fine. I see too many tuned Audi’s where the owner isn’t happy to pay though.

It may not be on the net but I can tell you from first hand experience that the bevel box’s and rear differential’s do fail. I’ve also had clutch failures too. Drive them hard with lots of launches and track use and this will happen eventually.

Also with the warranty if you tune the engine you loose coverage on engine, gearbox, bevel box, diff, driveshafts, all brake components and all suspension components.

 

[TiGeo]

If your happy to pay then that’s fine. I see too many tuned Audi’s where the owner isn’t happy to pay though.

It may not be on the net but I can tell you from first hand experience that the bevel box’s and rear differential’s do fail. I’ve also had clutch failures too. Drive them hard with lots of launches and track use and this will happen eventually.

Also with the warranty if you tune the engine you loose coverage on engine, gearbox, bevel box, diff, driveshafts, all brake components and all suspension components.

The better way to state that is that you *may* have warranty claim issues on those parts once tuned - it's not the 100% "void" like folks say but yes...in general...if you are tuning your car prepare to pay for drivetrain repairs. I have the DSG on my wagon and have more than doubled the power output - Ive launced it hundreds of times since tuning at 3K miles and at 70K it's ticking right along. The RS3 is a bit different and obviously has quite a bit more power.

 

[Audiman]

The better way to state that is that you *may* have warranty claim issues on those parts once tuned - it's not the 100% "void" like folks say but yes...in general...if you are tuning your car prepare to pay for drivetrain repairs. I have the DSG on my wagon and have more than doubled the power output - Ive launced it hundreds of times since tuning at 3K miles and at 70K it's ticking right along. The RS3 is a bit different and obviously has quite a bit more power.

Maybe in the USA that is the case but in Europe it’s void. Down to the owner to prove it hasn’t effected/ caused the defect.

 

[TiGeo]

Maybe in the USA that is the case but in Europe it’s void. Down to the owner to prove it hasn’t effected/ caused the defect.

Correct - there is no voiding here unless it's a salvage title. VAG knows your tuned if they look for it and your VIN is flagged. Warranty claims are then scrutinized b/c you hare tuned. I've had several issues (albeit minor) on the engine fixed on my Sportwagen and I'm tuned, FBO, larger turbo, etc.

 

[Patrizio73]

I would be more concerned about the bevel box and rear differential having failures than what non approved engine oil you want to run. I see issues with these on standard cars so stage 2 is going to punish them.

It does make me wonder though when people have these expensive cars then tune them so void the factory warranty that actually covers up to 5 years 100,000 miles on engine and trans components.

If you want to run 511 do so but buy an oil that IS 511.

Go Stage2 main is change downpipe for put down temperature near turbine and the car say thanks.
never listen no one broke differential in Audi RS3 and I know many peoples run Mtm,Abt,Revo ecc never listen.
try a stock RS3 , then a Stage2 and you will understand why peoples do.

 

[930.engineering]

I wouldn't have mentioned it but since you started with it....

I accept some people are doing this, but understand it? No, I don't understand it.
As an engineer I hate when things aren't in balance or up to the task. Tuning takes
away all the balance. Things wear prematurely and eventually break. In many cases
the second owner has to pay the largest bill. Probably the biggest issue: ECU tunes
are cheap, too cheap. In many many cases owners of tuned cars are cheating both
the dealer and the manufacturer (or even the government and insurance company)
because not being honest about the tune. Why should I 'understand' that behaviour?
Driving tuned cars didn't change my mind in any way at all. If I want a faster car I'll
buy a faster car. A car that is designed to be faster and with all components strong
enough to keep up with its power. More likely the truth is many people want to own
a faster car than they can actually afford. That's ok, so why not being honest about it?

Btw, changing cat/downpipe to a higher flow version doesn't even help nearly as
much as claimed by those who sell this kind of stuff. In the vast majority of cases the
gained 'headroom' is used for even more power, resulting in the same if not higher
exhaust temps as before fitting the downpipe (and much higher than stock) and even
more strain on the entire drivetrain. That whole 'put down temperature' stuff is mainly
one thing: a stupid myth. I am aware this won't bother you. It even doesn't bother you
that your RS3 isn't road legal.
.

 

[TiGeo]

I wouldn't have mentioned it but since you started with it....

I accept some people are doing this, but understand it? No, I don't understand it.
As an engineer I hate when things aren't in balance or up to the task. Tuning takes
away all the balance. Things wear prematurely and eventually break. In many cases
the second owner has to pay the largest bill. Probably the biggest issue: ECU tunes
are cheap, too cheap. In many many cases owners of tuned cars are cheating both
the dealer and the manufacturer (or even the government and insurance company)
because not being honest about the tune. Why should I 'understand' that behaviour?
Driving tuned cars didn't change my mind in any way at all. If I want a faster car I'll
buy a faster car. A car that is designed to be faster and with all components strong
enough to keep up with its power. More likely the truth is many people want to own
a faster car than they can actually afford. That's ok, so why not being honest about it?

Btw, changing cat/downpipe to a higher flow version doesn't even help nearly as
much as claimed by those who sell this kind of stuff. In the vast majority of cases the
gained 'headroom' is used for even more power, resulting in the same if not higher
exhaust temps as before fitting the downpipe (and much higher than stock) and even
more strain on the entire drivetrain. That whole 'put down temperature' stuff is mainly
one thing: a stupid myth. I am aware this won't bother you. It even doesn't bother you
that your RS3 isn't road legal.
.

I'm honest about it - my car was $20K new OTD and I have a 350+hp station wagon that is freakin' amazing for about $35K. I'll have it forever. I've built it right - brakes and suspension are upgraded and up to task. The larger OE/Golf R turbo has the correct supporting mods. The Unitronic tune is v. good and not pushing things to the limit. The other option was a E63AMG and well, I don't make that kind of money so I made my own. Why is that hard to understand?

 

[930.engineering]

TiGeo, my answer to you would have been different, honestly. You just built your own
"Golf R Variant". You know we had a quite similar discussion some time ago. No need
to repeat it. It's not that I'd want to 'ban' tunes, not at all. It's just important to also talk
about the 'side effects' and being honest, which I know you are.

 

[TiGeo]

TiGeo, my answer to you would have been different, honestly. You just built your own
"Golf R Variant". You know we had a quite similar discussion some time ago. No need
to repeat it. It's not that I'd want to 'ban' tunes, not at all. It's just important to also talk
about the 'side effects' and being honest, which I know you are.

My memory has faultered...all good...

There certainly is a downside to the modding/tuning world. The one that I think is some $hitty is modding/tuning your car, then "parting it out" and trading it in. The next owner has no idea what they are buying from the dealer and many have bought prev. tuned cars CPO to find out later they have limited warranty coverage.

 

[930.engineering]

Fully agree, good point.

 

[edyvw]

While I admire @TiGeo work on his soccer mom vehicle it still bothers me that he didn’t put oil cooler!

 

[TiGeo]

I think it's best to sell them as-is or at least private party to ensure all of that is in the deal but tha'ts just me, I keep my cars.

While I admire @TiGeo work on his soccer mom vehicle it still bothers me that he didn’t put oil cooler!

All in good time my friend......

VWR makes a nice kit for it and I agree it's a worthwhile add. Next year possibly....in addition to a set of wheels/perf. tires!

 

[Patrizio73]

I wouldn't have mentioned it but since you started with it....

I accept some people are doing this, but understand it? No, I don't understand it.
As an engineer I hate when things aren't in balance or up to the task. Tuning takes
away all the balance. Things wear prematurely and eventually break. In many cases
the second owner has to pay the largest bill. Probably the biggest issue: ECU tunes
are cheap, too cheap. In many many cases owners of tuned cars are cheating both
the dealer and the manufacturer (or even the government and insurance company)
because not being honest about the tune. Why should I 'understand' that behaviour?
Driving tuned cars didn't change my mind in any way at all. If I want a faster car I'll
buy a faster car. A car that is designed to be faster and with all components strong
enough to keep up with its power. More likely the truth is many people want to own
a faster car than they can actually afford. That's ok, so why not being honest about it?

Btw, changing cat/downpipe to a higher flow version doesn't even help nearly as
much as claimed by those who sell this kind of stuff. In the vast majority of cases the
gained 'headroom' is used for even more power, resulting in the same if not higher
exhaust temps as before fitting the downpipe (and much higher than stock) and even
more strain on the entire drivetrain. That whole 'put down temperature' stuff is mainly
one thing: a stupid myth. I am aware this won't bother you. It even doesn't bother you
that your RS3 isn't road legal.
.

I did not start anything .. I simply replied to those who asserted that making a change breaks the gear box.
technical, you will also be an engineer but the pleasure of driving and the sensations are not measured, they are felt, they are felt. a stock car with the same car prepared well has totally other sensations. My RS3 to be homologated with the Euro6 standards is totally "plugged", the catalyst is attached to the turbine in the upper part of the donwpipe to ensure that it reaches high temperatures, in addition to this they put another cap (OPF) that blocks even more.If you try an RS3 of 4 years ago it was much much better, more rewarding.Now it's more ready, revs up faster, the sound is more engaging, in short, I like it and it amuses me.Unitronic works with intelligence and everything is very harmonious.If you like sporty driving try one and give me an opinion on driving pleasure.The honest process I do not accept or let's start talking too of politics and it is not my interest.

 

[allepunta]

But, maybe they give him desperately sought confirmation bias.

...that nobody is free of.

 

[930.engineering]

.
The existence of an approval isn't a matter of opinion. There's simply no margin.
.

 

[rob10101]

Usually, the point of deleting a OPF, then chose an oil that has higher SAPS, not less.

When I see this picture, I see the 504 overlapping and exceeding the 511, thinking that the 504 is the better oil. So what am I missing or overlooking? I have a 2018 Audi A4 Quattro that I currently use 502 oil (sticker under the hood shows 502 or 504) while I live in CA where we have ultra low sulfur gas and thinking about switching to a 504 oil (Audi OE 0w-30 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 or a comparable Ravenol). Car is still OEM, not tuned, etc. Even the Lubrizol for the 504 vs 502 shows the 504 being superior so why should/shouldn't I just switch to the 504 or another better approved oil? Thanks!

 

[weasley]

When I see this picture, I see the 504 overlapping and exceeding the 511, thinking that the 504 is the better oil. So what am I missing or overlooking?

The fundamental difference between 504 00 and 511 00 is that 504 00 oils are 0W-30 or 5W-30, whereas 511 00 oils are 0W-40 or 5W-40. Both are ACEA C3-type and have roughly equivalent performance demands, noting that the xW-40 grades have to meet the same fuel economy limits as the xW-30 ones. 511 00 has a slightly higher TBN requirement.

 

[930.engineering]

I have a 2018 Audi A4 Quattro that I currently use 502 oil (sticker under the hood shows 502 or 504) while I live in CA where we have ultra low sulfur gas and thinking about switching to a 504 oil (Audi OE 0w-30 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 or a comparable Ravenol). Car is still OEM, not tuned, etc. Even the Lubrizol for the 504 vs 502 shows the 504 being superior so why should/shouldn't I just switch to the 504 or another better approved oil?

I'd say feel free using either VW 504 00 or 511 00 M1 ESP or Ravenol
VMP or RUP. Actually that's what I do. It doesn't matter much whether
you go VW 504 00 or 511 00.
Chose either XW-30 or XW-40 depending on your personal preference.
.

 

[edyvw]

VW511.00 is designed with high-performance engines in mind, particularly RS6 demands. VW511.00/C40 is a prime example that you really cannot use thin oils as long as "you design engine" for them.