quality 5W-40 oil for S2000

[05LGTLtd]

Edge 0w30 with a can of LiquiMoly motor oil saver? Can cut back to half a can after initial dose.

Any 10w40 HM options for you in full synthetic or semi synthetic? With the short oci, not sure full synthetic has much advantage. I get the wanting the best, but truth is you only need a very good oil that is correct for your application.

Of the three you listed, I'd lean toward the shell helix 5w40.

 

[dgunay]

Originally Posted By: MINick
It's a 2000 with 70k miles. Compression test shows 235-240psi across all 4. I have new valve seals and AP2 retainers/keepers to throw on, will see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't, i will pull the head and replace the rings, if the bores are ok. I checked the pcv, it's fine, although i am pretty sure it does suck oil from the pcv sometimes, Honda changed the design on the AP2s, and the Ap1 valve cover is no longer available, they sell the updated ones with the new pcv, that has to say something


"Don't fix what ain't broken"

I would start replacing from the cheapest thing to the most expensive. However, I doubt your engine needs an overhaul. Is there any high mileage oil available?

 

[MINick]

Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
Any 10w40 HM options for you in full synthetic or semi synthetic? With the short oci, not sure full synthetic has much advantage. I get the wanting the best, but truth is you only need a very good oil that is correct for your application.


Plenty of 10W-40 semi synthetics, but the price difference compared to the group3 syns is so small that it's not worth it in my opinion.

 

[MINick]

Originally Posted By: dgunay
Is there any high mileage oil available?


Yeap, this one and it's affordable too :

What is different with high mileage oils? I thought the only difference is some additives that help maintain the seals to prevent leaks?

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: MINick
... And since my knowledge is limited, what is more important, the base stock or the additive package?


If one is comparing Gp III oils to 100% PAO both are important. But, I think the additive package is most important. A mediocre additive package on a Gp IV oil is still a mediocre oil. Some of the Gp III+ oils are mostly PAO to begin with. You need both a good base stock and a high quality add pack.

 

[05LGTLtd]

I'd run the GTX HM 10w40 then. In a fifteen year old car, maintaining seals is important. Even if you're low miles, time is not on your side.

Look at the HTHS numbers on the HM 5w30 as well, if you can find one with a 3.5 hths it could be a good option. Being Europe, I'd bet you can. The 10w30 spec was there for the mild hths bump 10w30 has over 5w30. Most 10w-30's here are 3.1-3.3 range.

The castrol edge 0w-30 has a hths of 3.5 iirc. A3/B3 rating gets you there.

 

[MINick]

Originally Posted By: 05LGTLtd
I'd run the GTX HM 10w40 then. In a fifteen year old car, maintaining seals is important. Even if you're low miles, time is not on your side.

Look at the HTHS numbers on the HM 5w30 as well, if you can find one with a 3.5 hths it could be a good option. Being Europe, I'd bet you can. The 10w30 spec was there for the mild hths bump 10w30 has over 5w30. Most 10w-30's here are 3.1-3.3 range.

The castrol edge 0w-30 has a hths of 3.5 iirc. A3/B3 rating gets you there.


To be honest, i have zero leaks and i wouldn't want to use an oil just because it has some additives to preserve the seals. For the most part, this engine is sealed with rtv, and the few seals that it has are very easy and cheap to replace, i already replaced the vtec solenoid seal and the timing chain tensioner seals. Castrol does state that the GTX oil is suitable for engines with high oil consumption, and this is the only reason i am thinking about it. Apart from the seal protection, is there any other difference between an HM and a regular oil?

This is exactly why i am always looking for A3/B3 oils, Honda is calling for A3/B3 which to me means they want a minimum 3.5 HTHS. There is a Total 0W-30 A3/B4 with is a true synthetic, pao base stock, and the only reason i hesitate is it's a 0W. I'd hate to have a spun bearing because of wrong oil selection

 

[05LGTLtd]

Don't be afraid of a 0w30 or 5w30 with a solid hths. It's the best of both worlds.

HM oils tend to be higher in the viscosity range for the given grade. They also tend to have a more robust add pack. I couldn't pull the TDS for the GTX 5-w40 HM here, as it's not available here. The seal additive is often just a percentage of ester kicked in. People run redline in new cars without damage.

 

[JSRT4]

2 litres every 6500 kms isn't too bad at all for Ap1's. That is about one quart every 2000 miles approx. The average for an ap1 is one quart per 1,000 miles, and these engines don't usually get condemned until they approach 1.5-2.0 quarts per 1,000 miles. I'd say you are doing well. I don't think you have an issue with seals or piston rings.

I've gone to the 04-05 ap2 valvecover and pcv valve on my ap1 which helps. I recently added an oil catch can but it isn't catching very much.

S2000's in Greece tend to run higher viscosity oils due to the summer temps experienced over there. I'd run a good high mileage Castrol in any 40 weight viscosity you can find , that would work well with 6500 kms OCI's and easy on the pocket book, with the Honda PCX filter.

Would you happen to be Rednickos on the S2ki.com forums ?, I've seen that screen name come up often.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: chrisri
Castrol Edge 0w40 is predominantly Group IV based, so is M1 Ow40. Another good choice is Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, GTL based oil, and very competitively priced.


+1 What Chrisri says

M1 or Casttol Edge in 0W-40, both contain Group 4.

Or the new GTL base oil (gas to liquid) Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.

All these oils are ACEA A3/B4 plus BMW-LL01 and MB 229.5. All great oils meeting the highest specifications.

I'm sure there are others from LIqui-Moly or Motul etc., but I am less familiar with these products.

Big thing, look for MB 229.5 specs, for a top quality oil.

Also check out the price on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, around me it's the least expensive MB 229.5 oil by far, and others in Europe & Asia have reported similar pricing.

 

[SR5]

Pennzoil Ultra 5w-40 Euro oil in North America = Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 in the rest of the world.

 

[MINick]

Originally Posted By: JSRT4
2 litres every 6500 kms isn't too bad at all for Ap1's. That is about one quart every 2000 miles approx. The average for an ap1 is one quart per 1,000 miles, and these engines don't usually get condemned until they approach 1.5-2.0 quarts per 1,000 miles. I'd say you are doing well. I don't think you have an issue with seals or piston rings.

I've gone to the 04-05 ap2 valvecover and pcv valve on my ap1 which helps. I recently added an oil catch can but it isn't catching very much.

S2000's in Greece tend to run higher viscosity oils due to the summer temps experienced over there. I'd run a good high mileage Castrol in any 40 weight viscosity you can find , that would work well with 6500 kms OCI's and easy on the pocket book, with the Honda PCX filter.

Would you happen to be Rednickos on the S2ki.com forums ?, I've seen that screen name come up often.


My name is also Nick (Nikos), but i don't know that guy. I also have read some of his posts, and just tonight i read some of his posts about oils. Next oil change will be Castrol GTX 5W-40, i am curious to see if it will reduce the oil consumption, a test can't hurt. Indeed summer here is hot, and even more where i live at the southern Greece, Rhodes. Curiously enough, my friend's AP1 (which happens to be an imported from the states one, F20C1) doesn't consume oil at all.

Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Castrol Edge 0w40 is predominantly Group IV based, so is M1 Ow40. Another good choice is Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, GTL based oil, and very competitively priced.


+1 What Chrisri says

M1 or Casttol Edge in 0W-40, both contain Group 4.

Or the new GTL base oil (gas to liquid) Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.

All these oils are ACEA A3/B4 plus BMW-LL01 and MB 229.5. All great oils meeting the highest specifications.

I'm sure there are others from LIqui-Moly or Motul etc., but I am less familiar with these products.

Big thing, look for MB 229.5 specs, for a top quality oil.

Also check out the price on Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40, around me it's the least expensive MB 229.5 oil by far, and others in Europe & Asia have reported similar pricing.


I tend to stick only with international proven companies, to be honest i would never use anything LiquiMoly. Motul has good oils, was always happy with their oils.
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 is indeed very affordable here too, and about the same price with the Total Quartz Energy 9000 5W-40 that i am currently using. This Total also carries the MB 229.5 aprroval, i think most of the oils we are talking about here do. Thanks for the tip though.

I will agree about the Castrol Edge 0W-40 Titanium FST containing pao, but at least over here the M1 doesn't seem to contain pao or ester, the label says "HC-Synthese". Anything that contains pao will write "Vollsynthese" or "100% synthetic". Although i still don't get why the Motul 8100 xcess says "100% synthetic" but everywhere that i look i see it listed as a group3. This makes me sceptical for the other oils that say 100% synthetic on the label as well

 

[MINick]

On another note, it's kinda hard to understand why Honda specs 0W-30 and 5W-30 for the K20A3/Z3 engines, which are also high revving and are very similar motors with the F20.

 

[dgunay]

Honda specs xw30 for K20a2 and k20z3 in North America due to CAFE standards. In Europe, people use xw40.

For instance, I use 5w30 for my Si, but I used to use 0w40 / 5w40 for EP3 Type-r when it was naturally aspirated, and 10w60 after I turbocharged it back home.

In your case, I'd stick with 40 weight, due to relatively higher mileage/age, summer temps and no speed limit on the highway (I guess there is, but no one cares).

 

[MINick]

Originally Posted By: dgunay
Honda specs xw30 for K20a2 and k20z3 in North America due to CAFE standards. In Europe, people use xw40.

For instance, I use 5w30 for my Si, but I used to use 0w40 / 5w40 for EP3 Type-r when it was naturally aspirated, and 10w60 after I turbocharged it back home.

In your case, I'd stick with 40 weight, due to relatively higher mileage/age, summer temps and no speed limit on the highway (I guess there is, but no one cares).


Honda specs xW30 over here in Europe as well for the Type Rs with the K20, both EP3 and FN2. If my engine was fresh i would definataly use a 0W-30 but it's not and i hesitate, so i just placed an order for some 5W-40 HM GTX, i am very curious to see if it will reduce the oil consumption. I will test it on my mother's BMW E46 too, that also consumes some oil.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: MINick
I will test it on my mother's BMW E46 too, that also consumes some oil.


I would refrain from doing that if it doesn't meet LL-01.

 

[dgunay]

Originally Posted By: MINick
Originally Posted By: dgunay
Honda specs xw30 for K20a2 and k20z3 in North America due to CAFE standards. In Europe, people use xw40.

For instance, I use 5w30 for my Si, but I used to use 0w40 / 5w40 for EP3 Type-r when it was naturally aspirated, and 10w60 after I turbocharged it back home.

In your case, I'd stick with 40 weight, due to relatively higher mileage/age, summer temps and no speed limit on the highway (I guess there is, but no one cares).


Honda specs xW30 over here in Europe as well for the Type Rs with the K20, both EP3 and FN2. If my engine was fresh i would definataly use a 0W-30 but it's not and i hesitate, so i just placed an order for some 5W-40 HM GTX, i am very curious to see if it will reduce the oil consumption. I will test it on my mother's BMW E46 too, that also consumes some oil.


You can still use 0w oils, there's nothing to worry about. During the cold startup, the oil pressure would be higher than the operating temperature.

 

[JSRT4]

You have to realize that the oil specs for the S2000 were developed prior to 1999. Some of the 5w30 oils were still questionable at that time as many manufacturers produced conventional 5w30 by adding viscosity index improvers to thinner oils. Honda would spec 5w30 for most of the non-vtec lower revving motors, but would keep 10w-30 on the higher revving vtec variants of the same vehicles. 0w30 wasn't really available back then, and synthetic oils weren't that popular. Honda spec'd 5w40 oils for colder climates as they knew any 5w40 had to be synthetic, whereas 10w30 didn't have to be.

 

[MINick]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MINick
I will test it on my mother's BMW E46 too, that also consumes some oil.


I would refrain from doing that if it doesn't meet LL-01.


It does meet LL01, basically it seems like LL01 is so easy to pass nowadays that almost all 5W-40s have it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: MINick
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MINick
I will test it on my mother's BMW E46 too, that also consumes some oil.


I would refrain from doing that if it doesn't meet LL-01.


It does meet LL01, basically it seems like LL01 is so easy to pass nowadays that almost all 5W-40s have it.


Just checked and it meets more than that:

Originally Posted By: Castrol

Spezifikationen
ACEA A3/B3
ACEA A3/B4
API SM/CF
BMW Longlife-01
MB-Freigabe 229.3
VW 502 00 / 505 00


Looks like GTX in Germany is a lot better than the conventional product we get here in North America.