PVC Question

[JHZR2]

I thought I had a drip on a laundry standpipe that I installed. After two loads it was never seen again.

How old is this work? If it's older, I'd consider leaving it alone. If it's new, I'd chase down who did it.

It may reseal just from dust and any minerals that may be in the condensate. I'd personally take some q tips or an acid brush, and prime then solvent weld the joint a good inch or two from the leak spot, after drying it really well with a hair dryer.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
Gorman, This is how i would do the repair.

Get a hacksaw and cut the pipe where the 4" joint is leaking. It looks like you can disconnect the lower pipe that goes into the furnace?

After cutting the pipe, take a propane torch to carefully and evenly heat the inside of the pipe in the joint. After the inside pipe is soft, you can cut a slit in the pipe with a utility blade. Stick a screwdriver between the pipe and fitting to get some leverage then stick a plier in the hole you just made. Start to peel off the softened pipe.

Repeat for mating side (the one with reducer coupling that goes to the furnace)

Make sure you clean the joint well and apply primer (cleaner) before you apply the PVC solvent glue.

Hope this helps. There should be a bunch of videos on Youtube to show you how to melt the joint.



You beat me to it.

I used to work for a company that built large scale water filtration units. We would do just this if a mistake was made (dependent on the application) on our sch 80 pipe- up to 12". The sch 40 should be a breeze. FYI, a heat gun should work better if the o/p has it.

TIP: If you have to really work at it, then it's not hot enough.

 

[doitmyself]

- That trick of removing a glue joint is new to me. Does it work on old construction that has a good glue joint?? It would be foolish to do this on a pressure joint, IMO, because I would fear the quality of the reglued joint. None the less, a neat method to put into my bag-o-tricks.

- Since this is a non pressure condensate drain, I would personally work from the easiest to hardest solution. This joint is non critical and won't result in a flood.

First, I understand where Plumber is coming from. One fix, no call back. With his tools, materials, and experience, he could replace the whole assembly in 45 minutes, and likely charge the homeowner about $200-$300. Based on the OP, he likely would require help to DIY this. The 4 inch (?) pipe would have to be cut back 10" on each side of this joint assembly and then be rebuilt.

- Where does the 3/4" condensate drain go to? I would check to make sure it is not blocked, resulting in water backing up over the poor joint. This might solve your problem right off. Not a real fix, but the problem leak might go away.

- Any glue/epoxy/caulk repair will require to clean AND dry the joint totally.

- I would clean the entire circumference of the bad joint thoroughly, then clean it again. Then, MAYBE, just applying PVC cleaner (clear - less unsightly) around the joint will stop the leak by it by wicking up into, and expanding/melting the tiny leak. Maybe. You will need finesse and some thin brushes to work neatly on this "upside down" repair.

- If that doesn't work, you could try 3 "glue" choices. Clean the joint with PVC cleaner. Then with a fine brush, brush some thicker PVC glue around the joint and "work it in" with a tiny screwdriver or other tool, basically "welding" the plastic. Maybe use exterior grade blue cement that is designed for less than perfect conditions (but mor messy looking)???

-Or, you could make a nice looking 2 part white epoxy joint on the leaker....I have a 20 year repair on a sawing mistake I made below our toilet once.

-Or, try silicone caulk. I think the epoxy would work better.

Again, Plumber will laugh at all this because time = money for him (his total replacement would be faster for him).

Good luck! Don't fret, because you can always repair PVC by installing an all new joint if these band aids don't work. And, in this case, there is no flood that will happen.

Be careful....PVC cleaner and glue is flammable and not good to inhale.

 

[GGorman04]

Alright, I think it would be easiest for me to start with the easiest first since Im dealing with a condensate line. I cleaned the area first and applied a beam of silicon caulk around the area. I will give it a day and see if there is any leak.

 

[hattaresguy]

Dab a little wet glue on it and be done with it. Its just a condensate drain anyway so it doesn't really matter, that's also why their was no primer on it originally.

I get little drips once in awhile, sometimes joints don't seal 100% the first time. Dab a bit of wet glue on it and 99% of the time its fixed forever. If that doesn't work sawzall it out, stick a coupling in their and replace it.

All you need are:
Two 4" couplings
4" 60
4" TY
about 1ft of 4"sch 40
what looks like a 4x2 reducer
than whatever that bushing is on the bottom for your furnace line.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
- That trick of removing a glue joint is new to me. Does it work on old construction that has a good glue joint?? It would be foolish to do this on a pressure joint, IMO, because I would fear the quality of the reglued joint. None the less, a neat method to put into my bag-o-tricks.


Yes, it works fine. Heat will take apart whatever you can out together. We did even do this on some pipes that would see around 40psi and it worked fine. You just had to make sure to get it clean and free of burrs/junk/old glue.