Putting together a brake package

[DCDG]

Having some fun here putting together a brake package my current install is the PowerStop KOE7035. I have plenty of pad and rotor life before needing to do my brakes so I am taking the time to purchase open box and closeout pads/rotors. So far I am into

Centric C-Tek Ceramic Replacement Rear Disc Brake Pad Set for Select Nissan Model Years (103.09050) @ $21.87. These could possibly be found less maybe on rock auto but then I would be into them with shipping Amazon = free shipping.

Brembo P56099N Premium Ceramic Front Disc Brake Pads. These were a smoking deal I decided on taking my chances with Amazon resale/used, when the pads arrived they were in like new condition wrapped with a rubber band in a Brembo cloth covering in the original boxing just the box had a torn flap. They were listed at $7.19 had a few bucks Amazon cash on my doorstep for $3.93.

Total out of pocket $ 25.80

with the cost savings in pads I may be able to splurge on high carbon steel rotors. A replacement KOE7035 kit would run me $246.70

I was able to match friction coefficient ratings on both pad sets which are GG the PowerStop uses FF, so I am excited to get more cold bite and anchoring helpful when I load up with tools or passengers although the PowerStop kit feels confident I find myself looking for a little more brake with less pedal.

If this thread could stay open I will update as I hookup on rotors.

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[slacktide_bitog]

Get the cheapest Geomet-type coated rotors you can find

 

[DCDG]

Get the cheapest Geomet-type coated rotors you can find

My biggest gripe with Geomet's is the requiring of the bedding process which kind of defeats the purpose of thermo scorched pads I prefer the new car factory like break-in just drive easy with no aggressive or hard braking procedures for the first 100+ miles. Some ceramics are too soft to scrape away the coating and the coating can get glazed to the pad surface. I would consider myself out of the rust belt with the exception of being sort of coastal but not close enough where rust would be a concern plus my rotors sit behind steelies and hubcaps. I wouldn't be opposed to half coated/painted on the edge and hats zinc phosphate coating also an option. Guess I'm strange I like the OE appearance of a G3000 solid iron rotor blank.

 

[GMBoy]

My biggest gripe with Geomet's is the requiring of the bedding process which kind of defeats the purpose of thermo scorched pads I prefer the new car factory like break-in just drive easy with no aggressive or hard braking procedures for the first 100+ miles. Some ceramics are too soft to scrape away the coating and the coating can get glazed to the pad surface. I would consider myself out of the rust belt with the exception of being sort of coastal but not close enough where rust would be a concern plus my rotors sit behind steelies and hubcaps. I wouldn't be opposed to half coated/painted on the edge and hats zinc phosphate coating also an option. Guess I'm strange I like the OE appearance of a G3000 solid iron rotor blank.

Any brake job done right needs the bedding process done to perform best so you should still do that. As far as the coated rotors where coating is on the pad surface area - any brake pad will clear that off w/o issue ceramics included.

 

[DCDG]

Any brake job done right needs the bedding process done to perform best so you should still do that. As far as the coated rotors where coating is on the pad surface area - any brake pad will clear that off w/o issue ceramics included.

I been lucky i never did the bedding process and had good results.

 

[4wd]

Any brake job done right needs the bedding process done to perform best so you should still do that. As far as the coated rotors where coating is on the pad surface area - any brake pad will clear that off w/o issue ceramics included.

Even when I buy a new vehicle - I stay on the feeder roads for a few miles - engines, brakes, and stiff/new seals/parts need variety …

 

[slacktide_bitog]

My biggest gripe with Geomet's is the requiring of the bedding process which kind of defeats the purpose of thermo scorched pads I prefer the new car factory like break-in just drive easy with no aggressive or hard braking procedures for the first 100+ miles. Some ceramics are too soft to scrape away the coating and the coating can get glazed to the pad surface. I would consider myself out of the rust belt with the exception of being sort of coastal but not close enough where rust would be a concern plus my rotors sit behind steelies and hubcaps. I wouldn't be opposed to half coated/painted on the edge and hats zinc phosphate coating also an option. Guess I'm strange I like the OE appearance of a G3000 solid iron rotor blank.

I've never had any problems with that. Ceramic pads work with Geomet rotors just fine

Akebono and Raybestos ceramic pads are absolutely no problem. Both I have used successfully with Geomet rotors. Also, the coating is swept off by the pads in the first stop. The unswept area of course stays coated, so they won't rust for at least a year, and even then, they will still be easy to remove at replacement time.

The OE appearance of a G3000 solid iron blank goes away in hours, completely rusted overnight, then when the pads are done, impossible to remove

If you still don't like Geomet, get the Durago electrophoretic rotors (E-coated). Centric and Wagner used to make E-coated rotors, but not anymore.

 

[GMBoy]

I been lucky i never did the bedding process and had good results.

A lot of people will have no issues, true. The issues will usually crop up thousands of miles later with a warped rotor symptom that is caused by uneven pad material distribution on the rotor surface causing the warped feeling (shaking when braking). Doing a bed in eliminates this and starts you off in a better position as far as breaking performance, life, and smoothness. You have to get them HOT when new. It's listed as part of OEM service manuals brake jobs to do a bed in after pads and many pad makers list this as well. It is just the right thing to do for the best in a brake job.

 

[shortyb]

A lot of people will have no issues, true. The issues will usually crop up thousands of miles later with a warped rotor symptom that is caused by uneven pad material distribution on the rotor surface causing the warped feeling (shaking when braking). Doing a bed in eliminates this and starts you off in a better position as far as breaking performance, life, and smoothness. You have to get them HOT when new. It's listed as part of OEM service manuals brake jobs to do a bed in after pads and many pad makers list this as well. It is just the right thing to do for the best in a brake job.

This. If you're not bedding pads/rotors properly, ie; heat causes the pad friction material to transfer to the rotor uniformly, then you are leaving some good braking performance on the table. Adherent friction (like friction materials bonds/break bonds) produces the maximum amount of brake torque, more so than pure abrasive friction (pad simply rubs against the rotor surface). As @GMBoy stated, it also helps to eliminate future uneven deposits that form when brakes are used heavily on occasion (heavy use causes some pad material to transfer albeit unevenly) causing brake judder and cementite (spotty rotor material hardening due to localized heat caused by pad material high spots).

 

[RaymondP]

If you can find cryogenically treated rotors for your vehicle it's a no brainer. They will be the last rotors you by for the vehicle. Honest this is NOT a hoax, not fake news but very real benefits. Used for multiple track days along with regular use and never looked back.

 

[DCDG]

I’m into for $185-190. time for a brake overhaul.

 

[DCDG]

Got the fronts installed this evening

 

[DCDG]

Wow year and half old fluid.

 

[D1dad]

I just did a rock auto clearance set of the Carquest/raybestos high carbon (supposedly) rotors and platinum pads for $150 with shipping. All 4 wheels on my son’s 22 Sentra. Of course because of prop 65, they can’t ship to CA so I have to drag these things through the airport to San Diego to install them for him next week. It supposed to be this week but didn’t work out.

 

[DCDG]

I just did a rock auto clearance set of the Carquest/raybestos high carbon (supposedly) rotors and platinum pads for $150 with shipping. All 4 wheels on my son’s 22 Sentra. Of course because of prop 65, they can’t ship to CA so I have to drag these things through the airport to San Diego to install them for him next week. It supposed to be this week but didn’t work out.

that’s a bummer but good pricing. Have you worked on this vehicles brakes before? If it’s the same as a 20 with mechanical parking brake you’ll need a caliper wind back tool which applies pressure as you rotate the piston back. Sneaky thing is one side winds back left hand the other right hand you’ll need a tool with both left and right thrust bolts. If you don’t have one could do the tool borrow experience from the auto parts store.

 

[D1dad]

that’s a bummer but good pricing. Have you worked on this vehicles brakes before? If it’s the same as a 20 with mechanical parking brake you’ll need a caliper wind back tool which applies pressure as you rotate the piston back. Sneaky thing is one side winds back left hand the other right hand you’ll need a tool with both left and right thrust bolts. If you don’t have one could do the tool borrow experience from the auto parts store.

I have not but have 3 Nissans. I’ve never seen a Nissan rear caliper that you didn’t just push back in unless it had a EPB. Then it still was pushed back. Maybe I need to watch a video. Yep. Stupid screw in caliper with an in and outer pad. Pair of needle nose should get it done.

 

[DCDG]

I have not but have 3 Nissans. I’ve never seen a Nissan rear caliper that you didn’t just push back in unless it had a EPB. Then it still was pushed back. Maybe I need to watch a video. Yep. Stupid screw in caliper. Pair of needle nose.

I did not try the needle nose pliers hack. I remember the passenger side giving me the most grief the piston was I would say passed its extension thought it was frozen I was sweating big time swearing up and down I would be buying a new caliper. I was able to pull the caliper off and get it freed on the work bench.