Purolator Classic your opinions
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Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: brights_garage
I tend to stay away from the Premium Plus (White Box) though that were made in the early two thousands as they have paper ends.
Seriously? ... Purolator was using paper end caps? Hard to believe. I'd have to see a photo of that, and in all the oil filter study websites, I've never seen any Purolator with paper end caps, always metal.
I have two cases of these. Purolator had a plant in Utah that manufactured these. Somewhere in the mid two thousands the production moved to NC and the design now resembles the Pure One with different media and ADBV.
I would be happy to unload some on someone.
Originally Posted By: brights_garage
I tend to stay away from the Premium Plus (White Box) though that were made in the early two thousands as they have paper ends.
Seriously? ... Purolator was using paper end caps? Hard to believe. I'd have to see a photo of that, and in all the oil filter study websites, I've never seen any Purolator with paper end caps, always metal.
I have two cases of these. Purolator had a plant in Utah that manufactured these. Somewhere in the mid two thousands the production moved to NC and the design now resembles the Pure One with different media and ADBV.
I would be happy to unload some on someone.
Originally Posted By: brights_garage
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: brights_garage
I tend to stay away from the Premium Plus (White Box) though that were made in the early two thousands as they have paper ends.
Seriously? ... Purolator was using paper end caps? Hard to believe. I'd have to see a photo of that, and in all the oil filter study websites, I've never seen any Purolator with paper end caps, always metal.
I have two cases of these. Purolator had a plant in Utah that manufactured these. Somewhere in the mid two thousands the production moved to NC and the design now resembles the Pure One with different media and ADBV.
I would be happy to unload some on someone.
You should cut one open and post photos ... could be interesting.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: brights_garage
I tend to stay away from the Premium Plus (White Box) though that were made in the early two thousands as they have paper ends.
Seriously? ... Purolator was using paper end caps? Hard to believe. I'd have to see a photo of that, and in all the oil filter study websites, I've never seen any Purolator with paper end caps, always metal.
I have two cases of these. Purolator had a plant in Utah that manufactured these. Somewhere in the mid two thousands the production moved to NC and the design now resembles the Pure One with different media and ADBV.
I would be happy to unload some on someone.
You should cut one open and post photos ... could be interesting.
i would like to see pictures also!
Originally Posted By: sayjac
..
Or, if you had said that the Classic had caused VVTi cam phasing issues, noticeable power loss issues, or excessive noise issues, then the OP would have had at least some small morsel of information regarding the queried topic, the Classic.
...
Well, I held my tongue and didnt mention that Purolator does not properly fit on my 2008 1NZ-FE oil filter mounting system - but most don't and I'll partly blame toyota on that. Most all aftermaker filter dont thread on an adequate # of turns b4 tight. Usually 1 - 1 1/2 turns to gasket contact - wholly inadequate. Seen this with Fram, Purolator, Federated, Champ, Bosch (purolator). The wix just makes it to almost 2 turns before initial gasket contact.
..
Or, if you had said that the Classic had caused VVTi cam phasing issues, noticeable power loss issues, or excessive noise issues, then the OP would have had at least some small morsel of information regarding the queried topic, the Classic.
...
Well, I held my tongue and didnt mention that Purolator does not properly fit on my 2008 1NZ-FE oil filter mounting system - but most don't and I'll partly blame toyota on that. Most all aftermaker filter dont thread on an adequate # of turns b4 tight. Usually 1 - 1 1/2 turns to gasket contact - wholly inadequate. Seen this with Fram, Purolator, Federated, Champ, Bosch (purolator). The wix just makes it to almost 2 turns before initial gasket contact.
Yeah, that sounds more like a design flaw in the mount than anything else. The manufacturers just haven't corrected for it in their designs yet.
Hi guys. I do have one of these cut open and I'll try to post some pics. I don't want to distract from the original post here as the new Classic design filters have a solid design and are good value for the price at AAP. ($3.49 for most sizes) The ones I have and use are made in Fayetteville, NC.
I bought 8 Classic's -or Premium Plus back in 2004-then on closeout. I ran them 5-7k on my '00 Accord, and had zero problems.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
The Purolator Classic is a good filter with high filtering performance (97.5% @ 20 microns). Good value, solid built filter.
+1....and a great buy right now.
Purolator has a $1.50 (per filter) rebate going on right now...Print a 'rebate' form from their website (www.pureoil.com)
______________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 88K
Mobil 15w20EP / Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter / 1 year or 10K +/-
The Purolator Classic is a good filter with high filtering performance (97.5% @ 20 microns). Good value, solid built filter.
+1....and a great buy right now.
Purolator has a $1.50 (per filter) rebate going on right now...Print a 'rebate' form from their website (www.pureoil.com)
______________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 88K
Mobil 15w20EP / Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter / 1 year or 10K +/-
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: sayjac
..
Or, if you had said that the Classic had caused VVTi cam phasing issues, noticeable power loss issues, or excessive noise issues, then the OP would have had at least some small morsel of information regarding the queried topic, the Classic.
...
Well, I held my tongue and didnt mention that Purolator does not properly fit on my 2008 1NZ-FE oil filter mounting system - but most don't and I'll partly blame toyota on that. Most all aftermaker filter dont thread on an adequate # of turns b4 tight. Usually 1 - 1 1/2 turns to gasket contact - wholly inadequate. Seen this with Fram, Purolator, Federated, Champ, Bosch (purolator). The wix just makes it to almost 2 turns before initial gasket contact.
I have the same engine, with different head, but block is the same. On mine there is lots of thread, I have used puro in the past. The various filters don't look all that different in start of threads from base. Some are protruding type but most are not. The original Japan Denso filter has protruding base threads. I use those now. Since you have had leaks, which is also rare, might want to get under there and have a look see if something is wrong.
We need a China experiences thread and have at it with our stories. Spreading the word in any way can't hurt.
Originally Posted By: sayjac
..
Or, if you had said that the Classic had caused VVTi cam phasing issues, noticeable power loss issues, or excessive noise issues, then the OP would have had at least some small morsel of information regarding the queried topic, the Classic.
...
Well, I held my tongue and didnt mention that Purolator does not properly fit on my 2008 1NZ-FE oil filter mounting system - but most don't and I'll partly blame toyota on that. Most all aftermaker filter dont thread on an adequate # of turns b4 tight. Usually 1 - 1 1/2 turns to gasket contact - wholly inadequate. Seen this with Fram, Purolator, Federated, Champ, Bosch (purolator). The wix just makes it to almost 2 turns before initial gasket contact.
I have the same engine, with different head, but block is the same. On mine there is lots of thread, I have used puro in the past. The various filters don't look all that different in start of threads from base. Some are protruding type but most are not. The original Japan Denso filter has protruding base threads. I use those now. Since you have had leaks, which is also rare, might want to get under there and have a look see if something is wrong.
We need a China experiences thread and have at it with our stories. Spreading the word in any way can't hurt.
I was a 2 toyota family (05 rav 4 also) That engine had plenty of thread engagement before gasket contact. Same filter base - but toyota used a longer threaded nipple adapter on 2AZ-FE than the 1NZ-FE. Nothing is wrong with the base - Im always cleaning the base with a clean lint-free rag B4 I mount a new filter ( and I have my reading glasses on too - at least till they fall off into the drain pan ... !@%!&!
The filter is threads up and I change my own oil on the 1NZ-FXE. When the filter seal is broken from the mount, considerable oil from the passageways above comes down all over the filter and into the drain pan which I have to reposition to catch it. Then when removing the filter I am spinning it and finds lots of threads. I want it to come off sooner as it is a mess by now, but it has long threads on the mount. The threads are just about as long as any other car I have changed the oil on, found nothing unusual here.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: tgferg67
How many miles would be the max for a classic?
5000 mile OCI easily ... 7500 miles would probably be the limit.
This kind of answers my question. I have been using PureOne filters in my Cavalier (Sometimes Mobil 1 Filters when I can get a good deal)and have been wondering if they are worth the 200% pricing of the Classics.
I tend to change the oil in my Cavalier between 7.5 and 10k and since the oil change is coming up soon, was wondering if I should do a Classic. Sounds like I should cough up the extra $3 for the PureOne.
Originally Posted By: tgferg67
How many miles would be the max for a classic?
5000 mile OCI easily ... 7500 miles would probably be the limit.
This kind of answers my question. I have been using PureOne filters in my Cavalier (Sometimes Mobil 1 Filters when I can get a good deal)and have been wondering if they are worth the 200% pricing of the Classics.
I tend to change the oil in my Cavalier between 7.5 and 10k and since the oil change is coming up soon, was wondering if I should do a Classic. Sounds like I should cough up the extra $3 for the PureOne.
Originally Posted By: Oldwolf
I tend to change the oil in my Cavalier between 7.5 and 10k and since the oil change is coming up soon, was wondering if I should do a Classic. Sounds like I should cough up the extra $3 for the PureOne.
For a 7.5-10K OCI I'd pay the extra $3 for the Pure One filter.
I tend to change the oil in my Cavalier between 7.5 and 10k and since the oil change is coming up soon, was wondering if I should do a Classic. Sounds like I should cough up the extra $3 for the PureOne.
For a 7.5-10K OCI I'd pay the extra $3 for the Pure One filter.
Id use a classic but when I can get a pureone right next to it...... not so much. But its still better than Fram.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Oldwolf
I tend to change the oil in my Cavalier between 7.5 and 10k and since the oil change is coming up soon, was wondering if I should do a Classic. Sounds like I should cough up the extra $3 for the PureOne.
For a 7.5-10K OCI I'd pay the extra $3 for the Pure One filter.
+1...stay with the PureOne with those OCI's....
Originally Posted By: Oldwolf
I tend to change the oil in my Cavalier between 7.5 and 10k and since the oil change is coming up soon, was wondering if I should do a Classic. Sounds like I should cough up the extra $3 for the PureOne.
For a 7.5-10K OCI I'd pay the extra $3 for the Pure One filter.
+1...stay with the PureOne with those OCI's....
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